I just talked to one of the techs at autometer. He said that they have noticed thier wideband system is effected by strong electromagnetic fields in the area of the cable. Funny thing is, the wiring is only routed through the bottom of the floorpan, and up to where my radio used to be. Anyone have ideas on anything that might be causing interference?

 

1.) For starters, it's an autometer wideband, and so far I have not heard of an autometer AFR gauge that actually works.

2.) Have you calibrated the sensor?

3.) You installed the wideband sensor incorrectly. A wideband sensor should never be installed past horizontal (i.e. 9 or 3 o'clock position). Preferably it should be installed in the 12 o'clock position (pointing straight down into the exhaust). There is a very nice spot at the end of the DP to install a wideband sensor ... here's a how-to: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=84914

l8r)

 

I explained to the tech that it was at the "4-o clock" position, and then linked him to the pics. He said this will not cause a problem, as long as it is not on the bottom (5,6,7 oclock)

It dosent say anything about 'calibrating' the sensor in the instructions. I'm at a loss.

 

I would definitely try and recalibrate your sensor first. If that doesn't work I would look at the grounding point. I haven't really heard anything negative or positive about the Autometer wideband so I don't know if it is a reliability issue.

 

Since you installed it there, it's not that it wont work, it's just that condensation and "pooling" of water will destroy it faster.

Check all your grounds and then have someone actually log your car with EvoScan to see a complete readout of what the sensor is seeing.

 

the position of the sensor is not an issue in this case.

JFYI, i had this *same* issue with my 300ZX and the problem lied in the ground that i chose. i'd look at that first; choose a different place to ground it.

 

What did you ground too?

My car is an MR and from the factory it comes with gauges near the radio. I used the power, and ground from these gauges when wiring my new gauges (because I tossed the old ones)

I will try something different but I await your response.

 

I would ground it directly to the car, and not a tapped wire. I grounded mine right above the driver's side kick panel on a grounding screw that screws right into the body.

 

thank you all for trying to be so helpful.

Right now there are 3 black wires grounded to a bolt on the IP.

I will try something on the firewall.

This is going to be a case of trying one thing and either checking to see if it fixes the problem, or not then trying another.

=(

 

Yeah, there are alot of wires grounded to the bolt I used, but it's directly on the body of the car, so it works very well.

The bolt I used is above the kick panel on the drivers side. It's very close to the fuse box.

 

yup, directly to the body is the way to go. my ground is below the handbrake i believe, there is a bolt right on the body. i believe that's where it was, it's been so long since i did gauges.

 

One thing I have to ask you guys with widebands is a favor. If you get ready to park your car when the engine has already been warmed up (because you already drove it) can you check something for me?

I got home from work today and I notice also that when the car is idling (it bounces very near 14.7, say 14.0-15.5) If i just barely quickly "blip" the throttle it goes all the way down to 10.0 for a split second and then back to 20.0 before going back to the 14.0-15.5 range. These "blips" I do are really minor. Say for example my car usually idles at 800 rpm, it might be a tiny blip to take it to about 1200 or 1300 rpm for a quick little second.

isn't that too much of an AFR change for something like that?

I'm going to really work on checking the ground and power connections tomorrow.

 

IIRC, that's normal for a stock ECU car, more or less what I used to see. On tip-in near idle, you'll go slightly rich, and then as soon as you let up, it'll swing the other way. It's the stock ECU trying to stay at stoich as it interprets the signal from the narrowband O2. Depending on the cams, it can vary a lot just idling - mine used to swing from 11.0 - 17.0 or so.

If you're really worried about your tune, you could always see if you can harass someone at AMS to plug one of their widebands into your testpipe bung and take the car for a quick spin to see if the AFR is where it's supposed to be.

Personally I still say ditch the autometer POS, and go with something that is proven to work.

l8r)

 

I have a video of what is going on. I started the car and made a video. Car was pretty much warmed up when I took the video. Let me know what you think.

I checked the ground, and I have a solid 12.4 Volts (with the car not running)

Here is the link to the video............
http://www.youtube.com/v/Zz-V4CcG3FE

 

Wonder if anything may have happened to the flash during the install. Try grounding at the battery, drive, compare. You should log, for easier reading. Take it to ams theyll take care of you.