Done

 

anything? Anyone?

 

Does it go in the gear but just revs or you can only have it in neutral?

 

only have it in neutral, if i start the car in neutral then try to put it in gear it wont go, ( as if it is not disengaging enough

 

just pulled the inspection cover on the bottom off and everything looks like it is in working order... does anyone know the travel for the fork ?

 

could it be a that something in the hydraulics took a dump? i tried bleeding the clutch and it almost looks like an air pocket builds up in the back where the line for the clutch fluid goes... or maybe a bent shift fork??/??

 

could it possibly be the slave cylinder not working properly like not pushing the rod out enough? even though i have pedal pressure

 

anyone any ideas?

 

a malfunctioning slave or a bent fork would cause this. have someone push the clutch and watch the slave cylinder to see how far it moves

 

it moves but i dont think enough, does anyone know the spec on the distance>?

 

bump

 

i have experience w/ this on other vehicles as well. "IF" no other parts failed (which im assuming is not the culprit since u had no signs of issues earlier) then im pretty sure what happened is what has happened to me and my friends alot... the disc got over heated and is now partially stuck to either the flywheel or pressure plate. So even when you try to disengage it (and it should now be free spinning its catching and spinning just enough to not allow the tranny to slide a gear in. If its minor here is the fix... (in fact we did this to my friends supra last sunday at the track, same problem)

Put the car in 1st gear (w/ the engine off). Then start the car (clutch stays down) It will lurch forward because the spinning of the crank is now also spinning the clutch disc(since its stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate). Normally the flywheel/pressure plate should be spinning w/ the motor and the disc is free. Dont be alarmed... do it and keep it running.. keep the clutch ALL the way down even if the car moves forward a bit. Blip the gas if u have to, in order to keep the motor running. What will happen is the motor will eventually free the disc. Rev it (low revs)... then push the clutch in/out (w gas of course) like your trying to leave in 1st gear. Eventually the car will loosen and you'll drive off... then try a 2nd gear change. If you can change its fixed. It will be a lil' rough for a few changes but it will eventually free itself completely.

THIS IS FROM MY EXPERIENCES AND FROM MY FRIENDS ON EVOS, SUPRAS, HONDA ETC... RUNNING GRIPPY AFTERMARKET PUCK TYPE CLUTCHES. ITS COMMON I HAVE FOUND. It happened to the Supra after a burnout at the track. Once freed it was good to go again. Same w/ some Hondas and my Evo.

 

Thats funny you say that, my dad was thinking the same thing, i was just not sure how to fix that. Im going to try this after work.

 

well buddy i hate to tell you but the clutch fork has apart from the clip that holds it to the pressure plate and the only way to fix it is too take the transmission back out and replace the clip. sorry to tell you this i know how hard it was to get it put in, in the first place. But those clips are hard to find!!!

 

when you look threw the inspection cover though i can see the clutch fork pulling on the fingers and working correctly, am i missing what your saying?