Hi everybody,
I'm just rebuilding my engine ( Wiseco 85.5mm pistons, Eagle rods and 100mm crankshaft) into a 2.3l. At the same time I'm changing my stock cams for HKS 272's and my stock clutch for an Exedy twin. I also have an Apexi AVC-R. I'd like to know how many km I should do for a good break in?! (for the engine and the clutch) How should I drive during these kms?! Should I plug my AVC-R right now or after break in?! When should I remap my ecu (stock map for the moment)?! Right now or after break in?!
My car is an EVO VII JDM 2001.

And what power should I get with this setup on 93 octane?! (stock turbo. please tell me if it's whp or bhp.)

Sorry guys for my english...I'm french (but not from France!!!).

Thanks for your help!!!

 

lol @ french but not from france

to break in the engine i recommend taking it easy on the car for the first 2000kms - 5000kms. at this point use mineral oil as well, not synthetic.

not certain about the clutch though

 

^^ what he said. The clutch will be ready for action before the motor will. Try not to boost the motor at all. I think mitsu. said not to rev it above 5000rpm during break in, I wouldnt go past 4000. As far as the tune, it probably will need to be adjusted a little for the stroker motor and cams, have a good tuner by you make the changes so it runs real good under part throttle.
City driving is what you want to do, lots of easy acceleration up through the gears and engine braking. Sitting on the highway at 3000rpm for 1000 miles doesn't do ****. I think the first oil change is at 300 miles, next is 700 then 1200 miles. I'm not sure if I am forgetting anything, but do some searching, I'm sure you can find more info. Also on AMS's website the have break in guidlines for their engines.

 

Everyone has a different opinion on how to break in a motor. The thing that everyone agrees on is to vary RPMs frequently. What everyone disagrees on is how much to boost the engine and how high to rev it. What I did with mine was start it for the first time and let it run at about 1500-2000 RPM until it was up to full temp (coolant AND oil temp). Then I changed the oil. Then I drove easy varying the RPM from idle up to about 4k for the next 50 miles and changed the oil again. After that I started boosting frequently to push the rings out against the cylinder walls. For this stage i kept the engine below 5k RPM and had the boost set at wastegate pressure (~11psi with stock turbo). After I was confident that the motor was doing well (no strange noises, clean oil, etc), I drove it up to redline a few times and then let the engine slow the car back down. This would allow the engine to go through the entire RPM range under load during acceleration and under no load during decel. My engine has about 12k miles on it now and is still running well. It is a similar build to yours (Wiseco 86 mm pistons, Helix rods, 100 mm Mitsu crank, HKS 272s).

-Paul

 

driving like a grandma for 2000 miles

 

Drive it like you stole it! The big boys, break them in on the dyno and hold nothing back.

 

I second this. I have read numerous articles on breaking in engines. They have all said that you should break it in the same way you intend to drive it. My friend is a motorcycle mechanic, and he recommends beating the **** out of a new bike motor. I will try to find a good article...

 

hammer

 

I have read many articles and threads on the "proper" break in and this seems to be the best way. I remember reading a thread where David Buschur said that if it is going to break it is going to break no matter how you break it in. He dyno's his new motors right away and this is to sit the piston rings. The "wait 1000 miles before pushing it" was for older engines and cars without the advancement in parts that we currently use. I would feel bad if you broke your engine but then again, if you don't trust your build then you shouldn't be building it. Drive it like you stole it, that's what I have done.

 

I'd say do some normal driving for a few hundred miles maybe?

 

Rev limit that biotch till she blows..lol
very slowly!

 

I didn't read the other posts but:

1 use non syn oil
2 change the oil after 500 miles and look for shavings and such (they should be on the plug) use non syn again
3 when you down **** let the gearing slow the car down
4 don't rev above 5000
5 vary your rpms on the high way, get on and off the car. Do not floor it


Your clutch:
NON aggressive city driving is a good way, shift frequently but smooth.

DO NOT LAUNCH OF SHIFT THE CAR HARD

 

Pre-lube engine before start up!
Very brisk operation, with varying engine speeds after quick warm-up.
Frequent W.O.T. AND deceleration periods, especially during the first 20 miles, seems to be the general consensus of opinion. ALWAYS use mineral oil during "break-in".
Another oil & filter change after 25-30 miles is recommended... and a third after the first 500 miles.

Quote is by David Vizard writing for Stock Car Magazine. He owns his own dyno and Air-Flow rig and is one of the most experienced cylinder head specialists / engine builders / engineers available.
Correct Engine Break-In Proceedure:

Link--> Racing Engine Break-In Procedure - David Vizard

Link--> Break In Secrets - Part 1

Link--> Break In Secrets - Part 2

Link--> Break In Secrets - Part 3

Link--> Break In Secrets - Part 4

Link--> Break In Secrets - Part 5

Link--> Breaking in an engine... Buschur Racing

Link--> AMS Engine Break-In Instructions

Link--> New or Rebuilt Engine Break-in Procedure

Their $0.02¢

 

this is a good explanation taken from nasioc http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1575951

My procedure is -
Cheap crap 10-30 oil, non synthetic, no friction modifiers.
Do not have fuel mixture to rich as it will wash the bore with fuel when cranking.

Allow engine to fully warm up, while this is happening check for any leaks, oil pressure etc.
As soon as FULLY WARM take it for a spin and floor it till revs hit around 5k and back off allowing engine to pull good vacuum let revs drop to 1.5-2k, light load for 30 seconds and repeat. I normally use 4th gear so it takes a while to get from 1.5K to 5k, this keeps the motor loaded for a while.
Do this to the letter for at least the first 20mls. Then continue to do it whenever you can for the first few hundred miles (no such thing as too much).

I would try to do this without boost by disenagaging the wastegate flap or equivalent.

There is a reason for no boost and the 30 seconds light load. A new bore is relatively rough, you need to settle the rings. In the process of seating the rings the bore will have all the fine metal particles rubbed off by the rings. The rings will also be getting rubbed by the bore surface which helps them bed-in.
Cylinder pressures is what pushes the rings against the bore. Obviously high cylinder pressure pushes the rings out against the bore harder. The harder you rub the more heat is generated in the rings.

Therefore normal cylinder pressures is sufficient to push the rings against the bore to help them bed in without too much heat. The 30 seconds allows the rings to cool off before the next load is applied.

I always do my first oil change after 60miles on a new motor so I get all that microscopic metal particles out the engine system.

For more reasons to run the engine in hard search the internet about cylinder glazing. This is what happens if the "drive it very gently" technique is used, results of cylinder glazing is poor ring seal, excessive oil consumption and excessive ring blowby and can only be fixed by re-honing the engine.
I have personally experienced this on harley engine and chev sb engines all of which later converted to the "run-it-hard method and not had a problem.

 

Thanks for your answers about the break in but should i get a remap right after the build (before the break in) or after having broken in the engine?!

P.S: Yes i'm not from France...I live in New Caledonia, a little french island next to Australia and New Zealand...