I have heard of people cutting the honeycomb completely out of the stock maf (leaving the sensors in place of course)... I also know that many people do this on LS1 cars as their first mod .. I am keeping the stock maf and want to get the most out of it.. so I am either going to consider this route or epoxy the honeycomb in so it doesn't blow through my turbo (I'm going to try to completely max out the stock ecu/stock maf)

I do realize that this method would cause the load in Ecuflash/Evoscan to read much higher..

Can any one give me insight on this? Or personal experiences? I think 9sec9 did this when he was trying to max out the stock maf on the evo green turbo.. but I could be wrong..

Thank you

 

the honeycomb is there to smooth the air flow so the maf can get a better reading. Removing it will may make your car rougher. This is particularly true of you have cams and or a bigger turbo. Al

 

I don't think I posted this, so someone must have told what I was working on at the time. Hmm... Anyway, that was yesterday and here's what I was working on. It worked well and didn't actually have any negative idle issues. Good luck.

 

thanks for your input sir.. I'm not concerned with the fact that it is going to run rougher.. I already have aggressive cams that make it run rough.. I just want to be able to get the most flow out of the stock ecu and stock maf.. and not have to worry about the honeycomb blowing through my turbo..

any more input??

 

That's exactly what I'm looking for 9sec 9.. I pmed you!

How far were you able to go with the stock ecu and stock maf (power wise)?

 

i wouldnt remove it at all, it makes a major difference in the ecu reading airflow....

we made 500whp on our mustang dyno on pump with the stock maf.... just epoxied around the edges...

cb

 

Well boosted.. all **** aside..
yea you can do this to the car.. alot of DSMs do this to increase airflow asweel as epoxy it inplace to avoid it suckin into the turbo as you stated.. But you would have to tune and compensate for it cause it will def roughen your idle alot.. but seems u knew that.. you can do it and i would shoot for what 9sec9 has up there.. looks like it would def increase airflow alot but also perform as its supposed to and smooth things out to get an accurate reading.. I had thought abou doin this myself coming from 1g and 2g but havent really seen anything on here about it so didnt attempt.. if you do it.. post up some results and pics

 

was 575awhp the most you saw out of the stock maf then??

 

Thanks for your input man!! I am definitely going to be doing something with it... I have run the blowthrough setup before and did not really like it.. and I really would like the reliability that comes from the stock ecu and stock maf, without stepping up to an AEM... If I HAVE to go to an AEM some time, then that's fine.. I just want to see what I can get out of the stock ecu/stock maf first.. and Mellon is a God at tuning so we are going to do it!

 

Don't take it out!!

I almost sucked mine through the turbo.

I pulled it out and drove the car 10 miles (because I had to) and the A/F ratio was all over the place, car ran like crap!

 

Good deal.. let us know how it goes!

 

This honeycomb was twisted out of shape by the vortex, so I straightened it out and created this 'fix'. It worked fine on the street and at the track and was used in the final few months of using the FP Green. I also liked the Stock ECU and MAF and probably would have at least tested this, even if it hadn't been previously damaged. You should be able to make about 3 of these epoxied units from one good honeycomb. Goodluck.

 

Think of it this way.... If you are not tuned for it, then of course it is going to run like crap .. That's why you have to compensate for it.. but I am most likely going to go the route that 9sec9 went, since he had success on that route!

 

Why not just replace the stock maf with a 3inch GM maf? I understand where you are coming from wanting to use the stock Ecu and airflow sensor but the GM maf would basically be the same thing WITHOUT the restriction of the honeycomb.

 

A mass air meter is a sensitive instrument that is carefully calibrated. Any changes to the internals of the unit will adversely affect the calibration, which of course equally reduces the accuracy of the meter. When a privately sold MAF is advertised as 'bored' and such, avoid it like the plague.

The 'honeycomb' is there to create laminar flow through the meter. Without it, there is increased turbulence, which compromises the consistency of the signal, and it throws off the entire calibration curve.

When the BOV vents, the high pressure air blast takes the path of least resistance out. If one's BOV vent joins the intake pipe at a 90 deg angle, there is nothing to prevent it from belching back through the MAF. I have a suspicion that this phenomenon, air going out - not in, is responsible for at least a fair percentage of crumpled honeycombs. A few of us have our BOV vents entering the intake pipe at a very low angle of entry (directed right at the compressor wheel), and we've had zero issues over several years.