the turbo is currently on the car and i was thinking of taking it out and porting it really good, but as you might imagine this is going to be a PITA....
i was wondering if anyone has fist hand experience with a ported VS on-ported GREEN.
will it be worth going through the hassle?

 

ported is always best against non ported.. lol not to sure if it ll give you a significant advantage though...

 

I'd heard that the FP white & green were pretty good as they were. Sure there's some power you're leaving on the table in a unported one, but is it worth the trouble to pull it off and re-install? Probably not in my book for the few HP you'd be likely to pick up. On the other hand, if you've done everything else seeking every last HP in your build, it's probably more worthwhile.

Dave

 

Not that difficult to take it off the car. I say do it.
Undo the brace between the hotside/Compressor side and gut it!

 

yeah, i've done it before to go to a 10.5 hot side back when i had the stock turbo,
i'ts still a PITA!!

 

I would leave it alone. Porting is a PITA to do yourself and tricky to do right. Not to mention all the metal shavings that are going to be flying around and could get into the turbo. If its not broke don't fix it.

 

Get in touch with 9sec9, and have him send you a pic of the porting work he did on his son's, Green. To my knowledge, he did the first and definitive porting on the Green turbine housing..

You only need to remove the turbine housing. This means that you won't need to touch the oil or coolant lines as the center housing stays on the car, as does the compressor housing.

The turbine inlet only needs to be gasket matched to the exhaust manifold outlet. This takes about ten minutes. But, most of the work needed is in porting the turbine housing outlet area. The turbine wheel's exducer is shrouded by the casting in this area. This shrouding creates significant backpressure.

Be prepared to work on the turbine outlet area for about 5 hours at least, as you'll need to remove a lot of material here. The work will go more quickly if you use a high powered electric or pneumatic die grinder and a stone to rough shape it. Then you'll finish it with flap wheels and rolls. Don't even attempt to do it with a Dremel tool.

 

Stone??? That's probably why you say it takes 5 hours, you are using the wrong tool. First off, get a carbide burr bit made for ferrous material.

Removing just the turbine housing seems like it would be board line impossible. The whole turbo assembly only takes about 15 minutes to pull though and a coolant flush is never a bad thing.

 

were can i get those bits?

 

Yeah, I used a stone myself because the carbide burrs remove a lot of material in a hurry and once you take material off you can't put it back on. The stones on a 20,000 RPM 11 amp motored electric die grinder remove material fast enough for me.

Take a look at 9sec9's pics first. The grinding isn't a straight conical cut but has to have a hyperbolic contour like the curved inner bell of a trumpet mouth. The turbine inlet area is easy, but the outlet or discharge area of the housing is fairly tricky and needs a fairly delicate and gradual bellshaped contour.

You don't need to remove the entire turbo as you'll only be porting the turbine housing. But, hey do what you like.

 

The burr bits can be bought on ebay in 6 piece sets for like $30. Other wise, expect to pay $15-$20 a piece at your local tool supply shop. Just make sure they are carbide. They are cheaper then the ones you get at a quality tool supply shop, but they work fine for porting a few manifolds and turbos.

I don't know what others use, but I use WD-40 as a coolant/lubricant and it makes a huge difference on how well the bits hold up and how quickly they cut.

 

Huh? I guess that you've never swapped a 10.5 housing onto an '03 Evo? Why would you want to yank the whole turbo off if you don't have to?

 

sparky, could you please post a link to the porting that 9sec9 did on his hotside. I've been following most of his threads and don't recall seeing any porting pics. Maybe I missed that thread.

As for porting the hotside, I just removed my 03 turbo that I had added a Buschur ported 10.5 hotside in the past. Aside from some gasket matching on the inlet and some blending of that step on the exhaust outlet, there really wasn't a whole lot done IMO. I'm in the process of finishing my FP White install and I compared the unported White hotside with my old ported one and there wasn't much of a difference except for what I just described.

I really would think that it would be a big hassle to pull the hotside out and have it ported if the the gains would be so minimal. Now if some very involved porting was to be done like what was described that 9sec9 did, that may be worth it.

 

The burrs are o.k to use in the restricted inlet area of the turbine housing.But,you don't want to use a small diameter carbide burr in the turbine dischage area, as it will tend to gouge the material. Stones are best for the large diameter concentric discharge port. I guess that you've never ported the outlet opening of a Green turbine housing yourself, have you, 03White?

 

Tio: Porting the turbine outlet area of the exhaust housing on the FP White is not required because the White uses the stock sized 16G turbine wheel. Porting the outlet is beneficial on the Green because the Green uses a larger turbine wheel with a larger diameter exducer. As delivered, the Green's larger diameter exducer remains partially shrouded within the 10.5's discharge opening. This is not an issue with the White.

I'll look for 9sec9's pics and PM you.

EDIT: On second thought, I read a recent post by Razorlab, with regard to a customer of his who does porting on the stock IX turbine housing which is identical to White hotside. Razor stated that this particular fellows port work virtually eliminates the characteristic boost taper in the factory IX turbos. You may want to shoot him a PM to see if this type of porting may help with the White turbos.