Yes sir if those are broke or missing it'll have some of the issues you are seeing for sure man
well, I believe those are in place so thats not the cause. In any case i will call the dealer and tell him just in case
And for gods sake I beg its not a rod problem....
By, the way, Never ever in my life i would have thought that two simple clips could cause such a mess
And for gods sake I beg its not a rod problem....
By, the way, Never ever in my life i would have thought that two simple clips could cause such a mess
Evolved Member
Quote:
And for gods sake I beg its not a rod problem....
By, the way, Never ever in my life i would have thought that two simple clips could cause such a mess
A friend and I had the same exact problem at the same time, couldnt ever figure out why it would keep cutting out at 4k or so @ WOT, it sounds very stupid but sure enough those clips had worked themselves out.Originally Posted by Arturin
well, I believe those are in place so thats not the cause. In any case i will call the dealer and tell him just in caseAnd for gods sake I beg its not a rod problem....
By, the way, Never ever in my life i would have thought that two simple clips could cause such a mess
Former Sponsor
although you said they checked for leaks, i doubt they did it correctly.
heres what i would be looking at first:
0. do a legitimate boost leak test, pressurize the intake track from the turbo to the valves up to 20psi and make sure you don't have loose hoses, or hoses that seperate when the pressure increases. if that happens you wont be able to boost at all, and it will run extremely rich when you do have positive pressure.
1. check the vacuum line going to the blow off valve. if there is no vacuum line connected, the car will only boost to what the blow off valve spring is, and the stock one is pretty soft. this will also cause slow spool.
2. check the vacuum lines to the wastegate control solenoids (i beleive you euro spec cars have two instead of the USDM one control valve), regardless, if these are hooked up incorrectly you'll only boost wastegate pressure most likely.
3. check the preload on the wastegate actuator arm, if there is no preload, that means the wastegate is stationary open, meaning much slower spool and reduced boost pressure.
from the sound of it, the knock sensor has nothing to do with the problem.
you may want to make sure they plugged the MAF sensor back in too... if thats unplugged the car will run in limp mode, it will idle decent, but extremely rich at all times, and you'll be very limited on boost.
heres what i would be looking at first:
0. do a legitimate boost leak test, pressurize the intake track from the turbo to the valves up to 20psi and make sure you don't have loose hoses, or hoses that seperate when the pressure increases. if that happens you wont be able to boost at all, and it will run extremely rich when you do have positive pressure.
1. check the vacuum line going to the blow off valve. if there is no vacuum line connected, the car will only boost to what the blow off valve spring is, and the stock one is pretty soft. this will also cause slow spool.
2. check the vacuum lines to the wastegate control solenoids (i beleive you euro spec cars have two instead of the USDM one control valve), regardless, if these are hooked up incorrectly you'll only boost wastegate pressure most likely.
3. check the preload on the wastegate actuator arm, if there is no preload, that means the wastegate is stationary open, meaning much slower spool and reduced boost pressure.
from the sound of it, the knock sensor has nothing to do with the problem.
you may want to make sure they plugged the MAF sensor back in too... if thats unplugged the car will run in limp mode, it will idle decent, but extremely rich at all times, and you'll be very limited on boost.
Quote:
heres what i would be looking at first:
0. do a legitimate boost leak test, pressurize the intake track from the turbo to the valves up to 20psi and make sure you don't have loose hoses, or hoses that seperate when the pressure increases. if that happens you wont be able to boost at all, and it will run extremely rich when you do have positive pressure.
1. check the vacuum line going to the blow off valve. if there is no vacuum line connected, the car will only boost to what the blow off valve spring is, and the stock one is pretty soft. this will also cause slow spool.
2. check the vacuum lines to the wastegate control solenoids (i beleive you euro spec cars have two instead of the USDM one control valve), regardless, if these are hooked up incorrectly you'll only boost wastegate pressure most likely.
3. check the preload on the wastegate actuator arm, if there is no preload, that means the wastegate is stationary open, meaning much slower spool and reduced boost pressure.
from the sound of it, the knock sensor has nothing to do with the problem.
you may want to make sure they plugged the MAF sensor back in too... if thats unplugged the car will run in limp mode, it will idle decent, but extremely rich at all times, and you'll be very limited on boost.
I hope its nothing to do with knock but why will the turbo reach 0.8 bar without the knock sensor and just don´t pass 0.4 bar with it installed?Originally Posted by KevinD
although you said they checked for leaks, i doubt they did it correctly.heres what i would be looking at first:
0. do a legitimate boost leak test, pressurize the intake track from the turbo to the valves up to 20psi and make sure you don't have loose hoses, or hoses that seperate when the pressure increases. if that happens you wont be able to boost at all, and it will run extremely rich when you do have positive pressure.
1. check the vacuum line going to the blow off valve. if there is no vacuum line connected, the car will only boost to what the blow off valve spring is, and the stock one is pretty soft. this will also cause slow spool.
2. check the vacuum lines to the wastegate control solenoids (i beleive you euro spec cars have two instead of the USDM one control valve), regardless, if these are hooked up incorrectly you'll only boost wastegate pressure most likely.
3. check the preload on the wastegate actuator arm, if there is no preload, that means the wastegate is stationary open, meaning much slower spool and reduced boost pressure.
from the sound of it, the knock sensor has nothing to do with the problem.
you may want to make sure they plugged the MAF sensor back in too... if thats unplugged the car will run in limp mode, it will idle decent, but extremely rich at all times, and you'll be very limited on boost.
Former Sponsor
did you try doing a datalog of it with the laptop? thats were i would start if you think knock is the issue
I don´t have any datalogging software... I think its time to buy one. I have no clue on datalogging softwares, I would like it to come with all the necessary (software, cable ...) and if I could erase cells with it, it would be perfect. Any suggestions? If so, where could I get it?
thanks Kev
thanks Kev
Evolved Member
tactrix.com for the cable
aktivematrix.com for the data logging software
-E
Edit 2: UHG I'm off today...
aktivematrix.com for the data logging software
-E
Edit 2: UHG I'm off today...
Evolved Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrboi80
Yes sir if those are broke or missing it'll have some of the issues you are seeing for sure man
which of these 3 cables do I need to log? Just the openport 2.0 right?
http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?cPath=24_47
http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?cPath=24_47