Launching??T CASE??Breakages
Yeah....they brake.....lol! Wheel hop is the number 1 killer of transfer cases.
I had my own mishap with my T-Case....car had around 45k miles on it....drag raced almost every other week until the breakage...
I went with a Quiafe LSD and had a used Evo IX T-Case built by TRE (www.teamrip.com)
Here is my carnage...







I had my own mishap with my T-Case....car had around 45k miles on it....drag raced almost every other week until the breakage...
I went with a Quiafe LSD and had a used Evo IX T-Case built by TRE (www.teamrip.com)
Here is my carnage...







yup was just about to note that.
damn that T case looks jut like mine..
my Housing tho has a hairline crack through it aswell..
Im thinking of going donw the ATS LSD route.
will see how we get on..
damn that T case looks jut like mine..
my Housing tho has a hairline crack through it aswell..
Im thinking of going donw the ATS LSD route.
will see how we get on..
I was just going to say wheel hop is the num 1 killer. I've found that better engine mounts (especially front) can really reduce wheel hop and help you launch better and safer. Gives you that little extra to make the tires spin and not put all the stress on the drivetrain. At least on the street anyway..I haven't been back to the track since replacing a tc
damn tc.. there is always a weak link in a 4wd train...
hmm i think my HKS GD MAX is a bit too harsh as well..
its either slip a ****ty clutch or have a ****load of power to spin the wheels..
somethings gotta give..
hmm i think my HKS GD MAX is a bit too harsh as well..
its either slip a ****ty clutch or have a ****load of power to spin the wheels..
somethings gotta give..
^^ yeah and then once you replace the Tcase with something super strong the next thing to go will be the Gbox or Clutch hahaha the list goes on and on.... dont you just love it!!! not really!!
Ever try preloading the drive train before a launch? From what Shep and TRE said, trans and T case breakages are often cause by driver error, not preloading the drive train and the initial shock of a clutch dump is the main cause.
When ever I launch, I use the e-brake to load the drive train first and release it as I slip out the clutch so far haven't had problems launching at 7k (knock on wood of course!).
When ever I launch, I use the e-brake to load the drive train first and release it as I slip out the clutch so far haven't had problems launching at 7k (knock on wood of course!).
I've done it before with consistent sub 2.0sec 60' depending on conditions with decent reaction time. Its takes getting use to but your reaction time is not dependent of this motion. If you have enough practice, its just part of the reacting motion...drop ebrake and slip the clutch. If that makes sense...
Yes, what you do is set the ebrake up, then slip the clutch out to the point where you feel the car is getting held back by the ebrake and hold it there. When the light goes green or the last yellow turns off, I release the ebrake and then slip the clutch.
Its 3 motions when I launch:
-Release ebrake
-release clutch
-romp on the gas
All within the same flow of motions.
You have to play and feel how much to release the clutch exactly when the ebrake is up but this is the safest way imo to launch an evo.
Its 3 motions when I launch:
-Release ebrake
-release clutch
-romp on the gas

All within the same flow of motions.
You have to play and feel how much to release the clutch exactly when the ebrake is up but this is the safest way imo to launch an evo.


