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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 01:43 AM
  #1  
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From: VEGAS
Engine Tick

Well I am getting a FAINT tick from 2k rpms up, I was getting on the highway under slight boost the other day and had the car cut out extremely hard going into fourth, after it cut out it stuttered under boost. I pulled over checked out everything and went on my way. Car doesnt stutter now, but has a slight power loss and the motor feels rough when going into boost (and in boost).
When I free rev it with clutch in, out, ac on, off, whatever the tick is still there.
I replaced the spark plugs today, still there.
The is about 800 miles on new oil, not a drop burned, no coolant going missing, no smoke coming from exhaust.
I have the tephra patch and am not noticing any knock whatsoever under full load free reving, whatever.
Would the motor knock if there was a bad bearing or bent valve?
As far as mods I only have a exhaust, tune, and drop in.
There is 47k miles on the motor.
Will a leakdown and compression test confirm any damage?
Motor sounds slightly louder and the turbo does as well, along with trouble holding boost.
Thanks for any experienced input.
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 06:16 AM
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From: sc
**** some oil is a cup and send it off.
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 01:10 PM
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From: VEGAS
thanks, I was wondering if a leakdown and compression test would show annything.
as far as bearings I would have to have oil analyzed?
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 01:13 PM
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From: Lake Mary,FL
Originally Posted by bchappy
thanks, I was wondering if a leakdown and compression test would show annything.
as far as bearings I would have to have oil analyzed?
A compression and leakdown test should be able to determine if the car is lower on power..Also drain your oil and check for metal shavings
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 01:34 PM
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From: VEGAS
^thanks, more imput!?
I cant remember the engine oil drain plug is not magnetic is it?
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 01:47 PM
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From: Phoenix
you could always do the old trick of sticking a long screwdriver or socket extension onto the various points on the block and the other end in your ear. Then you just try to find it is the loudest. Down low, tend to be the bearings, up high...usually the valve train.

Get the idea? Like using a stethescope.

Its not a sure thing but just a way to narrow it down.
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 01:50 PM
  #7  
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From: VEGAS
^ I saw you have engine parts for sale in another thread, are you having a motor rebuilt? If so where considering I live in vegas as well.
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 02:01 PM
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From: Phoenix
AMS shortblock. Being shipped to me.

That was the largest obstacle in getting the vehicle back together. I wanted to put it together myself. Couldnt locate a machine shop. I kept procrastinating. 2.5 years go by....I finally broke down and ordered it from AMS.

There are shops who can do the work now I think. I talked to Trevtec and he said he could build it and there is a local shop that now has a torque plate for final hone. That was #1. No shop had that equipment 2 years ago in Vegas. I almost broke down and bought one $300-500.

I am usually at the airport (like I am now. I work in a private hangar.) If you need some help, let me know. Listnening to the engine will only take 5mins. I could tell you if its a bearing pretty easily.
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 02:19 PM
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From: Canada
...

Last edited by CanadianEvo; Dec 5, 2009 at 11:33 PM.
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Old Oct 12, 2008 | 02:30 PM
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From: Phoenix
Lucky for me I am a (airplane) mechanic and can usually diagnose easy items. Of course, I did pull out the engine myself and I am building the longblock myself as well as reass'y.

The easiest way to determine the symptoms you had Canda would be to pull the valve cover and watch the valve positions to determine why the head was losing pressure. When I blew my motor I had the same prob you had. Blown #4 piston, no compression. Exhaust valve hung open. Removing the valve cover revealed the rocker arm blown off the top of the valve. I should also mention that pearing thru the hole for the plug I could see the metal chunks from the broken piston.

Last edited by althemean; Oct 12, 2008 at 02:33 PM.
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