Is anyone getting the Unorthodox Racing pulley?
Is anyone getting the Unorthodox Racing pulley?
Is anyone planing on adding the Unorthodox Racing pulley?
I think you really only need the crank pulley. I don't feel you really need the alternator, and water pump pulley as there about the same as stock in weigh and size.
From what I understand the Unorthodox Crank pulley weighs just a little over 1 lbs and the stock pulley weighs close to 5 lbs.
My question is, dose the stock crank pulley act as a counter weight, or is there a reason for Mitsh... putting on such a heavy pulley.
I think you really only need the crank pulley. I don't feel you really need the alternator, and water pump pulley as there about the same as stock in weigh and size.
From what I understand the Unorthodox Crank pulley weighs just a little over 1 lbs and the stock pulley weighs close to 5 lbs.
My question is, dose the stock crank pulley act as a counter weight, or is there a reason for Mitsh... putting on such a heavy pulley.
Yeah I think we know what all those people say about the crank pulley being balenced and all that BS and how an aftermarket one will screw stuff up. But no one that has ever had any damage from one has actually come forward to say any thing negative. Its always the same crap that so and so heard from a friend.......that it damages the car. But no proof 
Last edited by SAEVO; Sep 2, 2003 at 11:21 AM.
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Originally posted by SAEVO
Yeah I think we kno whathat it damt all those people say about the crank pulley being balenced and all that BS and how an aftermarket one will screw stuff up. But know that has everhad any damage from one has actually come forward to say any thing negative. Its always the sam crap that so an so heard from a friend.......that it damages the car. But no proof
Yeah I think we kno whathat it damt all those people say about the crank pulley being balenced and all that BS and how an aftermarket one will screw stuff up. But know that has everhad any damage from one has actually come forward to say any thing negative. Its always the sam crap that so an so heard from a friend.......that it damages the car. But no proof
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It is a worthwhile mod, and given that the Mitsu motors are itnernally balanced, the pulley is a nice simple mod to do.
Hvae not looked at the evo crank pulley, but previous gen DSM's had a rubebr section that was prone to literal seperation over time. Since this is one piece aluminum ,it won't suffer that fate.
Hvae not looked at the evo crank pulley, but previous gen DSM's had a rubebr section that was prone to literal seperation over time. Since this is one piece aluminum ,it won't suffer that fate.
I would like to know the answer to the original question as well. I would like to go with that pulley. About how long would it take to swap out?
I havent seen a std crank pulley for this engine to tell if it has some type of dampening device built into it.
I also wonder if the unorthodox pulley is hard anodized? I havent seen a clear type hard anodizing before, but thats not to say it doesnt exist.
I havent seen a std crank pulley for this engine to tell if it has some type of dampening device built into it.
I also wonder if the unorthodox pulley is hard anodized? I havent seen a clear type hard anodizing before, but thats not to say it doesnt exist.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Southern California
Make sure whatever pulley's you decide to use that they have some type of dampener.
Without a dampener the pulley may create excessive vibration in the crank causing damage to internals or oil pump failure.
This may happen even as a result of a lightweight pullet regardless of dampening.
I ran a lightweight OEM Civic Type R crank pulley on my Integra GSR block. (The GSR crank pulley is huge, and has slots for PS, AC, Alternator compared to the CTR Crank Pulley with just a slot for the alternator).
Even though the CTR Crank pulley is dampened, I still managed to shatter 2 oil pump gears!(which lead to spun bearings & blown turbo!
) I had no clue why. When I changed back to the stock GSR Crank Pulley, I never had the problem again.
High torque motors should be cautious when running lightweight crank pulleys.
As a counterpoint though, many of my SR20DET friends run aftermarket pulleys on every accessory possible. It's actually considered a necessary mod since it frees up the strain on the waterpump.
And SR20DET's are rarely considered low torque motors.
There isn't too much to worry about with running the pullies on accessories.
Such as the Alternator, Power Steering, AC, etc...
Without a dampener the pulley may create excessive vibration in the crank causing damage to internals or oil pump failure.
This may happen even as a result of a lightweight pullet regardless of dampening.
I ran a lightweight OEM Civic Type R crank pulley on my Integra GSR block. (The GSR crank pulley is huge, and has slots for PS, AC, Alternator compared to the CTR Crank Pulley with just a slot for the alternator).
Even though the CTR Crank pulley is dampened, I still managed to shatter 2 oil pump gears!(which lead to spun bearings & blown turbo!
) I had no clue why. When I changed back to the stock GSR Crank Pulley, I never had the problem again.High torque motors should be cautious when running lightweight crank pulleys.
As a counterpoint though, many of my SR20DET friends run aftermarket pulleys on every accessory possible. It's actually considered a necessary mod since it frees up the strain on the waterpump.
And SR20DET's are rarely considered low torque motors.
There isn't too much to worry about with running the pullies on accessories.
Such as the Alternator, Power Steering, AC, etc...
i am planning on installing the unorthodox pulley soon. the weight differeince is as you noted, the factory one being about 4.x lbs and the unorthodox alum one is a lil over one pound. installing it is pretty straight forward, but you need a new belt as the pulley was smaller i believe. i agree with you that the other pulleys won't help too much, but also might i add that if you install the other pulleys, there will be adverse effects on your p/s and charging system...possibly a/c. the alternator from the factory already doesn't put out very much amps so slowing it down more will only put more strain on the battery. but yea...been in a car with one on...quite the mid-throttle and mid range difference, with a lil less difference in high hp.
about the whole issue on pulleys knocking off the balance of the rotating mass: keep in mind you're dropping the weight of the original pulley by quite a bit. factory pulleys need fine balancing because of their mass, spinning at high speeds with a slightly off center balance heavier pulley will cause a LOT more imbalance than a pulley with less mass. the same with the rubber dampeners. a lighter pulley will have less "shock" effect with the back and forth rotating shock from the pistons recieving force from the combustion and will in turn have less stress on the crank itself. the main concern for dampening was that with a rotating system(i.e, a/c, alternator, p/s), the belt will more likely turn in one continuous motion. however, the crank doesn't turn as smoothly, as it recieves "bursts" of power at intervals, causing a lot of back and forth turning of the crank, in small and frequent oscillations. a heavier pulley will continue to turn, while the crank shocks itself back and forth. but that is only because the heavier pulley is made of steel or cast iron even, depending on car. with a lighter pulley, there is much less rotating inertia on the pulley itself, and the belt(which is also made of rubber mind you) is allowed to take up the much smaller shock, and also giving less shock to the crank since there is a lighter mass on the end(pulley).
now the apology...its 1230am...i'm tired and sore....if i nothing i said made any sense...blah...
about the whole issue on pulleys knocking off the balance of the rotating mass: keep in mind you're dropping the weight of the original pulley by quite a bit. factory pulleys need fine balancing because of their mass, spinning at high speeds with a slightly off center balance heavier pulley will cause a LOT more imbalance than a pulley with less mass. the same with the rubber dampeners. a lighter pulley will have less "shock" effect with the back and forth rotating shock from the pistons recieving force from the combustion and will in turn have less stress on the crank itself. the main concern for dampening was that with a rotating system(i.e, a/c, alternator, p/s), the belt will more likely turn in one continuous motion. however, the crank doesn't turn as smoothly, as it recieves "bursts" of power at intervals, causing a lot of back and forth turning of the crank, in small and frequent oscillations. a heavier pulley will continue to turn, while the crank shocks itself back and forth. but that is only because the heavier pulley is made of steel or cast iron even, depending on car. with a lighter pulley, there is much less rotating inertia on the pulley itself, and the belt(which is also made of rubber mind you) is allowed to take up the much smaller shock, and also giving less shock to the crank since there is a lighter mass on the end(pulley).
now the apology...its 1230am...i'm tired and sore....if i nothing i said made any sense...blah...
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From: Corpus Christi, TX
what is the part # that you need. i have a brand new set of UR SS pulley kit.... underdrive, powersteering, pump, ect... that i bought for my 99gsx. but i totaled it back in july of this year and never had a chance to install it. not sure if it will work on the evo 8's since the two 4g63 motors are alittle different on the evo's and gsx's. if it will work and you want it send me a pm i paid $490 for the kit anadised (sp?) red. and i'll sell for $290 shipped.
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I think you would have to be a complete idiot to remove a harmonic torsional dampener pulley.
In DSMland it has proven to be a viable 4-5 whp gain at ~400whp. However, many large DSM shops have noticed strange bearing wear from cars without the HTD. In one thread on DSM tuners, about 6 peoples came together who had main or rod bearing failure withing 5k miles of going to a not HTD pulley.
In a honda, where 5 hp matters, maybe, in a DSM, where it does not, why would you risk your engine for it?
In DSMland it has proven to be a viable 4-5 whp gain at ~400whp. However, many large DSM shops have noticed strange bearing wear from cars without the HTD. In one thread on DSM tuners, about 6 peoples came together who had main or rod bearing failure withing 5k miles of going to a not HTD pulley.
In a honda, where 5 hp matters, maybe, in a DSM, where it does not, why would you risk your engine for it?