the situation:
i was installing the XEDE unit earlier on...STILL CAN'T GET THAT DAMN BOOST HOSE OFF (to remove the boost restrictor)!!! i've tried everything and almost tore the hose...IVE HAD IT...so instead i just taped up the torn part (not sure if i tore it thru enough to leak boost) and put everything back together...gonna take it in to an official Vishnu installer in a few weeks when i get the stage 0 exhaust in.

the problem:
now...the XEDE unit is all connected and works fine...BUT the boost restrictor is still in (Vishnu specified that the restrictor MUST be removed.) The unit came with subzero map pre-loaded (only XEDE w/ 93 octane.) I've ran the car and the boost DID hold all the way through the RPM range VERY nicely. However...the car idles kinda high now (around 1000 RPM)...i have to drive back up to austin for school tomorrow (home in houston.) should i take my car or leave it? i'm gonna call Vishnu Monday if they have any earlier and more conservative XEDE maps lying around that may not need the restrictor removed. the car runs fine except the higher idle...

what should i do?

thanks!

 

actually HA...it turned out that the unit came w/ the stage 0 map instead of the sub-zero map...after loading the right map the idle seems to be a little better (around 900 RPM)...however when the AC is on the idle is still at 1000....

what does everybody idle at?

 

i think shiv posted earier that if the restrictor wasnt removed you wont get the optimal boost. it will be lower than it shoudl be.
worst case you could always get a different piece of hose to use and leave the restrictor one if you needed to go back to stock.
but with the sub 0 map you'll be ok to drive. just not full powah!
Tom

 

 

You can't get the vacuum line off? Try this: Instead of just trying to yank it off the nipple on the boost control solenoid, twist it first to break the "seal". Once broken, you can slide it right off. It's really quite easy.

Once off, you can squeeze out the restrictor so that you run the desired boost pressures. With it in there, you're boost pressures will with a few psi too low.

As for idle, it will smoothen out as your ECU relearn. During the install, you essentially reset the ECU by disconnecting its harness. In doing so, it forgot all its idle learning. Give it a couple of days (if that) to come back.

Cheers,
shiv

 

Okay... Step away from the car. You can't seal up holes in a vacuum line by taping it up. Don't do this. If the hose is torn up, go to the hardware store and by replacement hose of similar diameter and replace the section between the boost control solenoid and the "T". This is the other option for those who don't want to squeeze out the brass restrictor.

Also, if you have questions like this, post up on our vendor forum since I check that regularly. You're also going to find a lot of other XEDE owners there who would be willing to help you out with advice as well.

Cheers,
shiv

 

thanks for the quick response shiv...Vishnu is definitely the way to go!

yea...I pretty much had it with the hose so i'm just gonna wait for the exhaust and take it to that official installer you guys listed in texas. i don't think the hose torn thru to leak boost...it may be just some surface tear...i just don't want to mess w/ it anymore. i couldn't even get the stupid air box out so i had VERY little space to work with the hose (a very ghetto method of crammin my hand under the loose air box)...but in the mean while...do you think its ok for me to run the sub-zero map since it'll be a couple weeks before i do that? or do you have any earlier, conservative maps u guys created that didn't require the restrictor removed? if the only difference is slightly lower boost i can live w/ it (for now) just as long as it won't damage the car...

thanks!

 

ha yea minus a zero...900 rpm

 

You can go ahead and run the Subzero map without a problem. With the restrictor still in there, your boost will be lower than stock since the XEDE's boost tables are mapped with that removed. It's certainly safe but the power gains over stock will be minor (or at least minor compared to what it should be with it removed.) That said, I'd urge you to get back in there and don't come out until it's done Take your time. Maybe get a friend to help if you need it. There's really nothing that one can mess up in there very easily. Removing that pill is no harder than installing, say, an intake in your EVO. I've timed myself installing the entire XEDE (including the removal of the restrictor) at under 5 minutes and I'm not exactly a good wrench

Cheers,
Shiv

 

ha thanks for the words of encouragement...u r a good man shiv...i'm glad i've chose vishnu to be my performance upgrade path

 

Whatup,

I don't have Vishnu (wish I could afford it right now but have a little one on the way ). I did install an MBC and has to remove the hose your talking about. If you remove the cover you can easily get to the hose from below the car. I have very little mechanical skiwz, and even I could do it.

On a side note, I accidentally broke the nipple on the FBC when I was removing one of the hoses, but I was able to yank it right off, heh. I got a replacement FBC if need to revert to stock for warranty work or if my fortunes change and I can get the XEDE. I could not figure out how to get the airbox out (I removed two bolts and loosened the MAF hose, but I was still missing something).

Take care,

FB

 

Why can't you get the airbox out?

Screwdriver is about useless depending on the position of the clamp. A ratchet and 10mm socket is much easier.
I think a lot of people try to remove the MAF, just loosen the clamp and pull the whole thing out.

 

There are 3 bolts holding the factory air box, (not 2) the throttle position switch connector and the intake pipe clip......now whats the problem?

 

If you can't removed the restictor from the vacuum hose, replaced the whole vacuum hose with a new one.

All autopart store will sell vacuum hose. It's may cost $0.50 per ft. You will need less than a ft of vacuum hose.

 

Sound like your first auto project Once you get some experience in working on cars it should be a really straight foward install.

You did use pliers to release tension on the metal clamp on the boost hose right Once you slide the metal sleeve towards the middle of the hose it should come off by barly yanking on it. The brass pill might take some patients to get out but shouldn't be that bad.

Good luck.