Although true, a built cylinder is critical for high revving, piston speed plays a large factor with ignition advance that is needed at such high rpm. Not to mention rod angularity. The 2.1 looks perfect on paper, however it seems unproven. I was really flirting around with building one, still may. Oil squirters attempt maintain piston temperature/expansion. Depending on the material being used, can make a difference. But also 2.4s can be modified to use the squirters. Try calling Jackson Machine, thats who Id call.

 

doesnt nils run a 2.1?? Maybe he can chime in because he actually abuses his motor road racing. Nils??

 

First id like to add that if not installing oil squirters was the plan of anyone on here build then it was a doomed motor from the start.

Lets state some facts:

One, OP has no working block.

two, a 2.0 core is very pricy, 2.4L 4g64g2 blocks are in abundance

three, If you can not figure out how to properly time this motor, the idea of you building it your self scares me.

I may sound cocky, but I know my 4g64's well

 

yes, that would be nice

 

after some phone calls i have decided to take this route. ill keep everyone posted in the future how it goes.

 

sweet please do.The rev potential of the 2.1 gives me wood.

 

lol, thats more the energy i like to hear from people.

 

Well I got to this dilemma too. I wanted the best of both worlds. You can't have it all, but dammit I'm trying. I went with a 2.2ltr. I'm using a 94mm crank, 150mm rods. So I'll be spinning it to 8500-9000 when I'm done tuning. I had a 2.3 ltr and loved it, but hated I couldn't spin it like the 2.0 boys can. Well I won't spin it to 10,000, but I have some stroke that'll make a difference with the ability to spin it. I have about 2500 miles on it now. The motor is doing fine by me so far.

 

With forged pistons you don't need oil squirters.


Keith

 

sweet, def get in on this and let me know how it goes. i really want to see the difference in tq on the dynos.

 

what companies do 2.1L stroker kits?

 

Long story short, this tune isn't done yet. It's just something for me to drive safely on. I'm going back for another session to clean up the pumpgas tune. These are just pumpgas, just 22psi.

Before is 2.3ltr with HTA35R


After is the 2.2ltr with HTA88(HTA37R) (pumpgas base tune only, not done yet)


Also if you run an AEM like I should be doing, chances are you'd make more power. But I'm pushing forward on the stock ECU+MAF-T Pro. Gotta pass emissions.

 

^how high can you rev your 2.2L?

 

I'm going to rev limit it to 9000, and probably shift it at 8500-8700, due to the pull style of clutch. I was told that some pull style clutches may not fail at 9000+, but some will. I have an exedy twin disk in right now. I'm not willing to find out.

The best thing this dyno shows is that with a 20-25 min tune, the 2.2 makes the same trq as the 2.3 peak wise. Granted the 2.3ltr makes it much sooner. A real comparison can't really be made until at least the pump gas tune is done, seeing as there is still power left on the table. I'm still trying to get the psi mapping sheet. That will tell the other side of the story when we compare those two.

 

looks strong still though