2.1l strocker
2.1l strocker
hey,
so im 90% sure im doing a 2.1l strocker as i blew up my motor and cracked the block. i just want to know if anyone else is running these setups and how they feel about it. i sure someone has it as turbotrix uses the same setup as i will be using. a 2.4l block and 2.0l internals.
does the turbo spool faster?
does the car sound the same?
do you feel more tq with the bigger block?
do the numbers show?
whats the highest rpm you get? i hear its still close to 10k
ALSO NO NEG. POST! ONLY WANT TO HEAR THE POSITVES AT THIS POINT!!!
i also will be running big cams and a built head with a fpgreen.
thank you
martin
so im 90% sure im doing a 2.1l strocker as i blew up my motor and cracked the block. i just want to know if anyone else is running these setups and how they feel about it. i sure someone has it as turbotrix uses the same setup as i will be using. a 2.4l block and 2.0l internals.
does the turbo spool faster?
does the car sound the same?
do you feel more tq with the bigger block?
do the numbers show?
whats the highest rpm you get? i hear its still close to 10k
ALSO NO NEG. POST! ONLY WANT TO HEAR THE POSITVES AT THIS POINT!!!
i also will be running big cams and a built head with a fpgreen.
thank you
martin
Last edited by wevo1985; Nov 23, 2008 at 11:39 AM.
I ran a 2.3 stroker kit from a company I won't name and blew fast for everyday driving. It picks of way faster than the 2.0 but I like the 2.0 better. Blowing a block is too expensive. 2.4 I don't know man
The block is not entirely the same. There are no oil squiters (they can be machined in which for anything other than a drag car I would highly recommend doing). Some of the coolant passages in the block do not match the head and will be blocked off by the head gasket. You will need a water pump adapter and a different timing belt as well as aftermarket cam gears as the timing is different.
I would not recommend this setup unless it is built by a VERY reputable company or you yourself are VERY familiar with Mitsu engine rebuilds.
I would not recommend this setup unless it is built by a VERY reputable company or you yourself are VERY familiar with Mitsu engine rebuilds.
The block is not entirely the same. There are no oil squiters (they can be machined in which for anything other than a drag car I would highly recommend doing). Some of the coolant passages in the block do not match the head and will be blocked off by the head gasket. You will need a water pump adapter and a different timing belt as well as aftermarket cam gears as the timing is different.
I would not recommend this setup unless it is built by a VERY reputable company or you yourself are VERY familiar with Mitsu engine rebuilds.
I would not recommend this setup unless it is built by a VERY reputable company or you yourself are VERY familiar with Mitsu engine rebuilds.
Never hear just the upside of anything, especially when its something you are sinking $$ into. Not much different than a 2.0 block, but it requires a decent amount more work to make it happen.
Just curious, how did you kill your last motor?
Just curious, how did you kill your last motor?
i put a crack in cyl 1 wall and snaped a rod. i believe the rod broke and hit the wall hard. its wasnt a great motor to start with cause it was overheated by the last owner and i had to replace bearings on the rods and the rod theat broke was the one that had the worse bearing. the bearings kindof started falling apart but didnt spin. it was something i havent saw before. mayby that i change the oil so much kept it from spinning.
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yea, its just that ive heard all the neg. stuff and its all the same. now i want to hear what this motor can do from someone that is using it
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From: Still in NC!! Loving retired life!!
Hey bro I think you might want to talk to Chris (LT1runner) on here. He has a similar build to what you are wanting to do. He is a friend of mine from Nashville and he has been working on this build for a while. As far as the internals it's not quite completely 2.0 stuff. You will need custom pistons. Since, as I'm sure you know, the 4G64 block has a 6mm higher deck height. If using an 88mm crank and stock 150mm rods obviously the piston would be way down in the hole!
Advantage, once you got everything built right and with the right head, you could rev this thing to 10,500 or better.
Josh
Advantage, once you got everything built right and with the right head, you could rev this thing to 10,500 or better.
Josh
If you do a search you will find that at one time I did have one with all the parts needed to install. I decided to sell it because no one could give me any firm details on setting the cam timing correctly. It was all hearsay. I wasnt comfortable with the changes needed to make it reliable and in all probablilty, it would not have stayed together very long (poor choice of vendor.)
The few members that I remember running this combo had spun bearing within the break-in period (put together by guys who know how to build engines) There were also one or two with oil starvation issues. If I recall I think Curt Brown had one in his car (as few years back) and hit a stock turbo record with it and then the motor died after a few passes down the strip due to oil probs. I think he switched to a BR 2.0L after that.
Honestly, after the headache of researching this and then purchasing it..the install was a pain. There is not a whole lot of help/info to draw on and the parts are unproven. Spend the cash and get AMS or BR (if he will even do this which I am sure they are capable of) to build it and install it for you. Otherwise, I think you will have major regrets.
From what I have seen on these boards over the years, 2.0L or 2.3L is the way to go. There is nothing you will gain by going to a 2.1L de-stroker that can not be matched or exceeded by the 2.0L builds.
Just trying to save you some cash and headache. I cant tell you how it ran cause I decided to go with a straight 2.0L and sold the 2.1L
The few members that I remember running this combo had spun bearing within the break-in period (put together by guys who know how to build engines) There were also one or two with oil starvation issues. If I recall I think Curt Brown had one in his car (as few years back) and hit a stock turbo record with it and then the motor died after a few passes down the strip due to oil probs. I think he switched to a BR 2.0L after that.
Honestly, after the headache of researching this and then purchasing it..the install was a pain. There is not a whole lot of help/info to draw on and the parts are unproven. Spend the cash and get AMS or BR (if he will even do this which I am sure they are capable of) to build it and install it for you. Otherwise, I think you will have major regrets.
From what I have seen on these boards over the years, 2.0L or 2.3L is the way to go. There is nothing you will gain by going to a 2.1L de-stroker that can not be matched or exceeded by the 2.0L builds.
Just trying to save you some cash and headache. I cant tell you how it ran cause I decided to go with a straight 2.0L and sold the 2.1L
If you do a search you will find that at one time I did have one with all the parts needed to install. I decided to sell it because no one could give me any firm details on setting the cam timing correctly. It was all hearsay. I wasnt comfortable with the changes needed to make it reliable and in all probablilty, it would not have stayed together very long (poor choice of vendor.)
The few members that I remember running this combo had spun bearing within the break-in period (put together by guys who know how to build engines) There were also one or two with oil starvation issues. If I recall I think Curt Brown had one in his car (as few years back) and hit a stock turbo record with it and then the motor died after a few passes down the strip due to oil probs. I think he switched to a BR 2.0L after that.
Honestly, after the headache of researching this and then purchasing it..the install was a pain. There is not a whole lot of help/info to draw on and the parts are unproven. Spend the cash and get AMS or BR (if he will even do this which I am sure they are capable of) to build it and install it for you. Otherwise, I think you will have major regrets.
From what I have seen on these boards over the years, 2.0L or 2.3L is the way to go. There is nothing you will gain by going to a 2.1L de-stroker that can not be matched or exceeded by the 2.0L builds.
Just trying to save you some cash and headache. I cant tell you how it ran cause I decided to go with a straight 2.0L and sold the 2.1L
The few members that I remember running this combo had spun bearing within the break-in period (put together by guys who know how to build engines) There were also one or two with oil starvation issues. If I recall I think Curt Brown had one in his car (as few years back) and hit a stock turbo record with it and then the motor died after a few passes down the strip due to oil probs. I think he switched to a BR 2.0L after that.
Honestly, after the headache of researching this and then purchasing it..the install was a pain. There is not a whole lot of help/info to draw on and the parts are unproven. Spend the cash and get AMS or BR (if he will even do this which I am sure they are capable of) to build it and install it for you. Otherwise, I think you will have major regrets.
From what I have seen on these boards over the years, 2.0L or 2.3L is the way to go. There is nothing you will gain by going to a 2.1L de-stroker that can not be matched or exceeded by the 2.0L builds.
Just trying to save you some cash and headache. I cant tell you how it ran cause I decided to go with a straight 2.0L and sold the 2.1L
There are no generic problems with a 2.1L stroker. It allows the RPM limit to be higher, and the rod ratio to be better, as long as you're using longer than stock length rods.
Talk to Marco at Magnus Motorsports. He has all the parts (particularly pistons and rods) that you'll need, and plenty of experience in building these motors that he'll share with you.
(If you want an Evo VIII bare block, PM me for details.)
Talk to Marco at Magnus Motorsports. He has all the parts (particularly pistons and rods) that you'll need, and plenty of experience in building these motors that he'll share with you.
(If you want an Evo VIII bare block, PM me for details.)
good advice. i do see that turbotrix sells this set up and slowboys to. i have no good core so ill be paying 7k to 8k on a bottom. dont have that kind of money. if its that bad no one would sell this set at all, im sure. its not a daily driven car but i also dont want it sitting forever with me unable to drive it. ill prolly only be reving to 8k due to still having a small turbo. im also doing the install myself as im a expert tech for both a toyota and hyundia dealer and have over 5 yrs experience. unless i find a 2.0l block for a reasonable price, which im sure i wont cause i havent in the last month even saw one for sale, than this is the route im taking.
Also take into account a virgin 4g63 core is around 1800. AMS and BR will both sell fully assembled built shortblocks without a core for around 5k. You will end up about even if you decide to go the 2.1 route. If you only plan on running less than 9k rpms....2.0l all the way. Besides, the high rpm factor comes from a built head anyways.
I am trying to convince you not to do this. The info on this board is limited for 2.1 and the results are usually less than stellar unless you have deep pockets. I really think you will have a smoother time with a 4G63 and in the end...you will be happier. The factory manual will apply, questions asked on the forums will be easily answered. Parts are more readily available.
For me, the #1 reason was the oil squirters. Many say they are not needed. But I couldnt swallow that. Not on a high rev turbo car. The additional insurance outweighed the possibility of piston cooling loss. It would have meant that I needed to disassemble the shortblock (from the vendor) take it to a machine shop. Hope the local guys machine it correctly and then reassemble.
Check your PM...
Also take into account a virgin 4g63 core is around 1800. AMS and BR will both sell fully assembled built shortblocks without a core for around 5k. You will end up about even if you decide to go the 2.1 route. If you only plan on running less than 9k rpms....2.0l all the way. Besides, the high rpm factor comes from a built head anyways.
For me, the #1 reason was the oil squirters. Many say they are not needed. But I couldnt swallow that. Not on a high rev turbo car. The additional insurance outweighed the possibility of piston cooling loss. It would have meant that I needed to disassemble the shortblock (from the vendor) take it to a machine shop. Hope the local guys machine it correctly and then reassemble.
Check your PM...
For me, the #1 reason was the oil squirters. Many say they are not needed. But I couldnt swallow that. Not on a high rev turbo car. The additional insurance outweighed the possibility of piston cooling loss. It would have meant that I needed to disassemble the shortblock (from the vendor) take it to a machine shop. Hope the local guys machine it correctly and then reassemble.
Check your PM...