STOP STOP STOP..... You are beyond wrong it's not even funny. Customer feedback is the best thing a company can receive, good or bad. You guys can't take bad feedback and it is only hurting you. You clearly are reading wrong if you think fewer people have problems than one without. I would say 90% of ACT clutch's show signs of lock-out. If we start a poll I will be proven right. The problem is it isn't a hard fix because all you need is a motor mount. It's a given you need one but also is very irritating to some who DD their car. You are the only manufacturer basically who has this problem. Deny the fact all you want but you are only hurting yourself by ignoring this problem. Stop blaming it on installs as it takes an idiot to screw up a clutch install. I have had an ACT clutch in both my Evo's. One installed by a shop who has evo's lined up at the door and the other was my friend who is a Mitsubishi tech. Both have lock out. Where is the blame now? My finger is pointing at you. You have probably lost so many sales due to this problem it's not even funny. You are becoming the last resort so it's either fix it or be replaced.

 

I don't think ACT would be on here if they weren't interested in getting feedback. And a poll on here is only as good as the number of people who vote so we can take that for what its worth. The last one of those polls I saw on here was a farce with one guy voting negatively on all of the ACT clutches just for the hell of it.

I have a stock clutch in my Evo and changing the motor mount to a Blox unit fixed my problem - so is that a ACT problem or a problem with too much movement with the stock mounts? For anyone in denial that the problem doesn't exist on other clutches as well see my previous post.

 

yea, for some reason i had the same problem on my Evo when i put the ACT clutch in, i took it to 7.5g n the shifter wudnt go into second, even witout a hard launch, im guessing it wud be the motor mounts, engine vibration in the car is a lil iffy

 

^ or just the clutch.

 

ive never had any lockout issues with my ACT HD-G6, even revving to 8 grand.

 

i run my ACT XTSS to 7500 with no lockout issues.

 

Have you adjusted the clutch pedal?

 

act hdss here.... sux *****

12k oem to act hdss

immediately noticed 5th gear grind if shift kind of fast in that gear

35k now... road in friends car with twin.. he can shift so much faster than I can in my hdss.. its great daily driving, but if you get on it, you can shift fast, its like a delay if you if you force it in, it pretty much will grind..

i can't blame anyone but myself, i chose to get it because at the time it was more cost effective for me,, but i have a twin waiting in garage, and a tranny bout to be removed to send to shep.

I can't wait, its going to be a whole new driving experience.

 

How do motor mounts help? I read this everywhere but can't find a good explanation

 

I would think less motor movement for smoother shifting.

 

Owner of ACT HD 6 puck sprung. Got about 40 passes or so with no problems. But then the problems started. It will not go into 3rd no matter what sometimes. Always during high rpm's, past 7k. I can short shift below 7k with no problems. Go over it and I swear, it doesn't go in sometimes. I can hardly believe that a salesman or whoever at ACT can tell me I improperly installed this clutch or did not adjust it properly. I've installed tons of clutches previously. It worked fine for a good number of passes, but ultimately it failed. I now have a 3rd gear grind when trying to shift. A synchro problem I'm sure. Never had a problem prior to using this clutch (went from stock clutch to ACT.) All I know is, it's Exedy HD Twin Disk time and ACT has probably lossed my business for life. That's how I feel. Too many other occurrences for this to be my fault and not the product.

 

I've installed 3 ACT clutches in Evo 8's & 9's:

-2900 4-puck unsprung
-2600 6-puck sprung
-2600 street disc sprung

I have never had an issue with any of these clutches locking out. I've read threads on here and had no idea what you guys were talking about. I even adjusted the clutch pedal CLOSER to the floor on all these cars so they were extremely easy and quick to shift.

Ok so May of '09 I bought a complete Evo 8 dropout to put in my 2000 eclipse. I left the motor and trans attached and saw an act clutch through the inspection hole. Got the car running and what do you know? LOCKOUT. I adjusted the pedal all the way up and now it has this issue where it actually goes into gear, the pedal will be out but my engine free revs, then all of a sudden it engages. No it has never slipped and I'm barely making 300whp.

So I thought about this long and hard and came to a conclusion. GREASE your input shaft!! I did this on all the cars I installed act clutches on and never had a problem. Then I got a dropout where this wasn't done and I have nothing but issues. The input shaft needs to be lubed so the throwout bearing can move freely.

 

I have the act 6 puck and I rev to 8300rpm on a 35r no problems here.....

 

For those who had problems with ACT clutch, if you figured out why it was locking out other than clutch itself, please post your findings.

 

I used to be a mechanic for Mitsubishi and have installed hundreds of clutches. I have never had lockout issues on any clutch install because I am very detail oriented and pay attention to the little things. For instance, when you drop the transmission, you should wire brush the splines on the input shaft and make sure there are no thin films of corrosion or rust build up on these splines. Sometimes I have to take a small jewelers screwdriver and methodically scrape the carbon from each individual spline and then wire brush it when done. Inspect the splines with a magnifying glass if you have to. It should look like you just replaced the shaft with a new one when you're done cleaning it. The splines should be lubricated with a very thick synthetic grease, but just a thin layer so it doen't get thrown up onto the disc and cause slipping. The new disc should be temporarily installed on the input shaft to verify that the disc floats like you're sliding on a sheet of ice. After you remove it, wipe any clumps of accumulated grease that formed on the disc female spline area. I've read through this entire thread and you're the first one to finally realize that you should lubricate your input shaft. But the reasoning behind "lightly" lubricating your input shaft (as well as properly cleaning it)is so the disc can float freely between the pressure plate and the flywheel and not hang up against either side. If the disc hangs up against the flywheel or pressure plate, this will cause the input shaft to stay engauged to the engine....ergo...... grinding synchros, gears and lockout.