Heat Reflective Tape "Gold vs. Silver"
Dec 7, 2008, 12:54 PM
#31
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If you like the gold foil, you will love the silver as it is 56% better at reflecting heat and costs around the same. The common gold foil actually has an amber colored film which gives the appearance of gold. They all work well. but this stuff is the best we can get over here without breaking the bank.
Dec 7, 2008, 05:47 PM
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Contact Mark Meko at www.earlsindy.com. They supply most of the Indy Car, NHRA, and ALMS teams here in Indianapolis. Tell him you saw this thread on EvoM and they can supply as little or as much of this material as you need. This way you will be assured you are getting the genuine article not another copy. Also they carry t-bolt clamps, coupler hoses among other things you might need.
Fathouse
Dec 8, 2008, 11:23 AM
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why do we have to cover the cam sensor?
I mean the engine bay is of course hot then why didn't mitsu design it to keep from getting hot or protect it from getting hot?
I mean the engine bay is of course hot then why didn't mitsu design it to keep from getting hot or protect it from getting hot?
Dec 8, 2008, 12:00 PM
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^ Please look at post #11. Check out the distance between the header and the cam sensor then look at a stock exhaust manifold with the factory heat shield. Mitsu engineers had this figured out from the beginning. Keep heat soaking the cam sensor and see what happens. More than a few members on this fourm have found out. Sensor, head gasket, and labor...it's not if it's going to happen, just when.
Last edited by Indy Evo; Dec 8, 2008 at 12:02 PM.
Dec 8, 2008, 02:45 PM
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"Just last week we had two more EVO's come through here with bad cam sensors.
I'd highly recommend for the price of a cam sensor that you guys buy one and throw it in your glove box. A cam sensor failure can for sure blow an engine, it happened to me at the shootout.
The reason it happens is when the sensor starts to fail it will read irratic RPM levels. If you are at peak torque/peak boost when it starts freaking out and it is telling the ECU the RPM is actually much higher than it is the ECU will do two things, move the AFR to a point it shouldn't be and move to a timing cell it shouldn't be in. The two of these combined causes some pretty serious damage, they cost me a cylinder head." DB
I'd highly recommend for the price of a cam sensor that you guys buy one and throw it in your glove box. A cam sensor failure can for sure blow an engine, it happened to me at the shootout.
The reason it happens is when the sensor starts to fail it will read irratic RPM levels. If you are at peak torque/peak boost when it starts freaking out and it is telling the ECU the RPM is actually much higher than it is the ECU will do two things, move the AFR to a point it shouldn't be and move to a timing cell it shouldn't be in. The two of these combined causes some pretty serious damage, they cost me a cylinder head." DB
Dec 8, 2008, 03:30 PM
#43
Sorry I missed this thread Indy. Very nice product. Normally rather than addiing to something I'd just go with what you've posted. Since 10 other posts have been made regarding other products I will go on and babble a little bit here
First, as Indy said, the factory set up is fine with the cam sensor location. The manifold is low, there is a nice black heat shield over it and it is pretty far from the cams sensor. The car also run 10.xx:1 AFR's when it is stock and doesn't make nearly the EGT's as a well tuned car does.
When you add a header, leaner AFR's, no heat shields to the stock manifold etc., it all puts more heat into that cams sensor. I have not seen a cam sensor fail on a stock type EVO to date. I have seen a LOT of failures on EVO's with headers on them. My RS lost one under WOT the day of the car show/open house this year. It felt like a standard misfire to me from the plugs being fouled so I decided to "drive through it". That decision cost me a head gasket and cylinder head. I changed it that morning at the shop while the car show was going on and was back on the road that day. A $90 cam sensor cost me about $4500 (this is retail, cost of my head, the new head, gaskets and labor). Indy was there and his wheels started spinning and he came up with the idea to do a shield in carbon fiber.
The carbon fiber shop that Indy uses is not some fly by night shop that makes junk. This is a high end shop that builds actual parts for Indy cars. I know someone in the other thread made some comment about because it is carbon fiber the price is high. The reason for the price is it's made of quality carbon, is molded, fits correctly and if it saves you ONE blown head gasket or worse, it paid for itself about 75 times.
I am not personally a fan of the gold foil look. The silver looks a hell of a lot better in my opinion and I like the plain carbon the best. It's funny this all got mentioned because last Friday I started up my car and let it run for awhile. I got out the laser gun and pointed it at the header tube closest to the cam sensor. It was 370 degrees at idle. I then pointed it at the outer side of the cams sensor and it was 125 degrees. I pointed it at the cam sensor and the sensor was 90 degrees.
The cam sensor is obviously designed to take some amount of heat, it's bolted to the engine. It also has oil that runs up into the housing which helps to keep it cool.
Last but not least. An interesting thing I was just discussing with my neighbor about the street rod he is building. DEI makes a floor and tunnel shield that is also a highly reflective silver. It has a sticky backing on it that will absolutely blow your mind on how sticky it is. Wanna wax your back? Don't bother, just get some of this and stick it on/pull it off. We make heat shields for the oil pans out of them. It was standard on the BR330/350's we built. We still offer it, they are like $10 or something. It just sticks to the bottom of your oil pan over the downpipe.
A few years ago when we were racing two cars I bought a new stacker trailer. This huge trailer has a generator box on it, the generator fit inside of it. The excess door to it was on the outside of the trailer. Inside the trailer there was a cabinet, the bottom shelf of this cabinet was the top of the generator box. We had one of those large gallon pails with a citronella candles in it. Well we had the generator running and I went into the trailer to get something. When I grabbed that steel bucket the entire candle had melted into liquid from the heat. Then I noticed the entire cabinet was amazingly hot. The top of the cabinet inside the trailer had the steel gas tank mounted for the generator. The fuel inside the tank was actually boiling. Scared the crap out of me. We instantly shut it all down.
That Monday I called DEI and we ordered a few rolls of the floor and tunnel shield. We cut it and put it on the top and sides of the generator box and then put the generator back inside of it. The results were amazing. The noise alone was cut but atleast 1/2 and the heat was basically eliminated.
That maybe a good solution for this too. The stuff is pretty thin (1/8") maybe, I think the high gloss silver combined with the thin insulated/self adhesive backing is what makes it so good.
Just a thought since there is discussion on what is best and what isn't. If nothing else, the stuff makes good oil pan shields from the heat.
First, as Indy said, the factory set up is fine with the cam sensor location. The manifold is low, there is a nice black heat shield over it and it is pretty far from the cams sensor. The car also run 10.xx:1 AFR's when it is stock and doesn't make nearly the EGT's as a well tuned car does.
When you add a header, leaner AFR's, no heat shields to the stock manifold etc., it all puts more heat into that cams sensor. I have not seen a cam sensor fail on a stock type EVO to date. I have seen a LOT of failures on EVO's with headers on them. My RS lost one under WOT the day of the car show/open house this year. It felt like a standard misfire to me from the plugs being fouled so I decided to "drive through it". That decision cost me a head gasket and cylinder head. I changed it that morning at the shop while the car show was going on and was back on the road that day. A $90 cam sensor cost me about $4500 (this is retail, cost of my head, the new head, gaskets and labor). Indy was there and his wheels started spinning and he came up with the idea to do a shield in carbon fiber.
The carbon fiber shop that Indy uses is not some fly by night shop that makes junk. This is a high end shop that builds actual parts for Indy cars. I know someone in the other thread made some comment about because it is carbon fiber the price is high. The reason for the price is it's made of quality carbon, is molded, fits correctly and if it saves you ONE blown head gasket or worse, it paid for itself about 75 times.
I am not personally a fan of the gold foil look. The silver looks a hell of a lot better in my opinion and I like the plain carbon the best. It's funny this all got mentioned because last Friday I started up my car and let it run for awhile. I got out the laser gun and pointed it at the header tube closest to the cam sensor. It was 370 degrees at idle. I then pointed it at the outer side of the cams sensor and it was 125 degrees. I pointed it at the cam sensor and the sensor was 90 degrees.
The cam sensor is obviously designed to take some amount of heat, it's bolted to the engine. It also has oil that runs up into the housing which helps to keep it cool.
Last but not least. An interesting thing I was just discussing with my neighbor about the street rod he is building. DEI makes a floor and tunnel shield that is also a highly reflective silver. It has a sticky backing on it that will absolutely blow your mind on how sticky it is. Wanna wax your back? Don't bother, just get some of this and stick it on/pull it off. We make heat shields for the oil pans out of them. It was standard on the BR330/350's we built. We still offer it, they are like $10 or something. It just sticks to the bottom of your oil pan over the downpipe.
A few years ago when we were racing two cars I bought a new stacker trailer. This huge trailer has a generator box on it, the generator fit inside of it. The excess door to it was on the outside of the trailer. Inside the trailer there was a cabinet, the bottom shelf of this cabinet was the top of the generator box. We had one of those large gallon pails with a citronella candles in it. Well we had the generator running and I went into the trailer to get something. When I grabbed that steel bucket the entire candle had melted into liquid from the heat. Then I noticed the entire cabinet was amazingly hot. The top of the cabinet inside the trailer had the steel gas tank mounted for the generator. The fuel inside the tank was actually boiling. Scared the crap out of me. We instantly shut it all down.
That Monday I called DEI and we ordered a few rolls of the floor and tunnel shield. We cut it and put it on the top and sides of the generator box and then put the generator back inside of it. The results were amazing. The noise alone was cut but atleast 1/2 and the heat was basically eliminated.
That maybe a good solution for this too. The stuff is pretty thin (1/8") maybe, I think the high gloss silver combined with the thin insulated/self adhesive backing is what makes it so good.
Just a thought since there is discussion on what is best and what isn't. If nothing else, the stuff makes good oil pan shields from the heat.
Last edited by Zeus; Dec 8, 2008 at 10:16 PM.
Dec 8, 2008, 04:54 PM
#44
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David, it would be interesting to see the temp around the header tube at WOT or right after a run.
What I do know for a fact is heat kills electronics. ECM's, data aquisition boxes, sensors, etc. and anything you can do to keep these components cooler will only aid in their performance and life.
What I do know for a fact is heat kills electronics. ECM's, data aquisition boxes, sensors, etc. and anything you can do to keep these components cooler will only aid in their performance and life.
