ya im gona try using thicker oil but i live in north dakota and it get super cold here in the winter time and not to sure if thicker oil in the winter for cold start ups is gonna help the problem...... i will also check the sending unit to insure there is a good conection and i have also thought of installing a oil pressure gauge just to be safe and know exactly whats going on. but like i said it rarely flickers and only for a lil bit at idle once i have been driving for awhile and after i have ripped on it a little bit.

 

also another thing i have noticed to my problem it only acures when the oil temp gauge on the dash since its a mr reads 90*c and oil im at a stop and during idle the temp slowly starts to drop and as that happens is when the light flickers for a bit...... and im usen mobile 1 10-30

 

I'd for sure swap out the oil sender. Its not much work and minor expense.

I had Mobil 1 10W-40 in my car through the December cold spells. I finally swapped it out for 10W -30 over the New Year and I don't experience better starting on cold mornings. However, if the oil sender isn't the fix, 10W-40 would provide you a little more viscosity when the oil is hot.

 

If you want an oil that is thinner when cold, you look for oil with the first number that is lower -- ie. you'd go to 5W-30 rather than 10W-30, etc.

The upper number is thicker when hot -- ie. 10W-40W or 20W-50 gives you more thickness when hot than 10W-30W oil would...

Many 4g63 HP engine builders build the engine with wider clearances, and use 20W-50, at least in the summer. Some of the exotic newer oils have even wider spreads, like 0-50, which are claimed to give you good starting weight (-0-) and still have the thickness when hot to protect your bearings. It is generally true that the wider the range, the more difficult it is to make the oil and the higher the cost

 

Forget the numbers, my experience with conventional oil is that and engine with 10W-40 won't start the way an engine with 10W-30 will on a cold day. I'd suggest a little lying is printed on the container the oil comes in.

I was surprised when this didn't seem to be the case with the Mobil synthetic oils. That's why I suggested Mobil 1 10W-40 for an owner in the North.

 

ya ill have to defintly look into check and possibly swaping out the sending unit to make sure its not that which is malfunctioning.... and as for the thinker oil ill switch that up too

 

IF you find thats the problem, please let us know! Had to put a new oil pump in a friends car and we took the balance shafts out at the same time and his light has been flicking at idle ever since! But for 3k miles he still hasnt had to put any rod bearings in it!!! ROFL

 

will do sir

 

I had the same problem. I got my motor rebuilt and i found out later that they ****ed up a lot of stuff. But after a couple of days of getting my motor back in and running my oil light would flicker when eventually it would stay on and the idle would be below 1K rpms. But i found out by doing a compression test that my compression was low. and took it apart thinking it might be valves. But it ended up being my piston rings had seized to my pistons on number 2 and 4 pistons. So i had it bored again, new pistons, new gasket set, and everything was fine. But i would check/change the oil pressure sensor(5.99 from autozone), and if that doesnt help i would do a compression test to see if you are having the same problems as i did. And to make sure your compression is still good.

 

problem solved!!! change oil to a heavier weight..... light still flickered....... put in oil pressure gauge and showed pressure all the time even while oil light would flicker....... replaced factory sending unit ....... no more flickering at all

 

If you have low pressure after a block build, something probably isn't right. Install a high resolution oil pressure gauge and see what the pressure reads. Chances are is that whoever built your block modified the blocks oil passages (i.e. removed balance shafts and forgot to plug bearing holes, forgot to change pickup tube gasket, etc.). It is not uncommon to see screw ups of this magnitude from joe-smoe machine shops.

 

i dont have a pressure problem..... it was just the factory sending unit that was acting up

 

I had a similar issue in my 2g DSM and it ended up being the oil pressure sender unit as well

 

where is the oil pressure switch located at???

Its only ten bucks

 

ive been through 3 motors cause of that light, def gotta be your oil pump that was the case for mine all 3 times, is your block built... is so what did you do about balancing shafts