Dapper Dan

iTrader: (28)

Im just curious, but how did you determine that the eagle cranks oil poorly after 6k?

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

We recommend a rev limit of 8500 rpm on our stroker engines. I do not believe you need an aftermarket crank shaft. Actually, I believe the Mitsubishi crankshaft is excellent.

650 whp on our dyno is NO problem at all for one of our strokers. Nick Andy's car made an easy 701 whp in front of a few hundred people at the shootout actually, his car runs one of our strokers and has been in the car for a few years.

John Shepherd has one of our strokers in his EVO and ran a 9.9 at 140+ mph on E85 and radials at the shootout. His car is hitting 8800 rpm crossing the finish line.

That's my input.

p.s. I read beyond the first post in the thread after making my post. I do not recommend or sell any Eagle products anymore. We use to sell/use a lot of their rods. I saw too many failures from their rods and had no luck with the cranks either. I stopped using/selling the product over two years ago.

Geo@SpeedClinic

iTrader: (2)

A lot of Chinese rods, including K1 may have the right 'paper specs' but they do not necessarily torque up correctly. Many retail customers will never understand what it means, but sometimes you have a part that is fine, then you throw some torque wrench at it and all the sudden it is out of round. I recently had a Chinese rod from one of the manufacturers discussed in this thread end up .0004 out of round after I torqued it to spec.

While that number looks very small, if you were building an engine to two thou on the rod, and it was out of round 4 tenths of a thou, that's 20% wrong. That's a whole lot of wrong. You need to realize what type of product you're dealing with. I am not necessarily degrading any particular company, as I sell all of the rods in question, but I also sell the American made higher quality rods such as a Carrillo - you plain and simple - do not find these situations with a Carrillo. Price points are there for a reason. Anyone who has bolted together their fair share of metal can hold a Manley H-Beam and a Carrillo H-Beam and see the difference.

This is telling of what leaves the factory though. The finish work is not quite as good as what it should be in my opinion. Manley, Eagle, K1, etc, all have sharp edges and require a bit of machine work before they are acceptable to be put into the engine. If you've done any V8 work, you'll see the difference between an Eagle piece and a Callies or Lunati Billet piece. There's a significant amount of money difference, but it IS buying something.


There's no cut and dry directions to figuring out crankshaft or oiling problems...one way to look at it is from logging oil pressure. When the pump cannot keep up with the RPM (the old adage is 10psi per thousand rpm) then you know things are going in the wrong direction in a hurry.

Aside from that the best way is trial and error. Sometimes the only way to really see what is going wrong is to pull the engine apart. On the 2JZs that we have had a hand in...if things start going wrong, even if the oil pressure looks decent, you do a handful of pulls over 9 grand and you pull it apart - you see that the top of the rod bearing has all of the coating beat off of it and that you're wearing it out in a hurry.

It's hard to tell someone how to fix this without looking at it first hand, but it needs to be understood when they are buying their parts if it's high quality parts or if it's parts just to get by.

DynoDude55

iTrader: (20)

Take an Eagle crank and a stock crank and compare them side by side. Notice how the eagle crank's oiling holes are not dished or champhered as well as the stock crank is. Now go check out a Brain Crower crank, they spent some time with that crank making sure it would oil properly enough for being cross drilled. With a poor delivery of oil it may become stationary after 6000rpms and starve the rod bearings. Not with a centrifugal or straight shot drilled crank. Think about it for a minute.

A stock crank is a very well engineered piece and they actually spend time making sure that it is well balanced. Example look at the drilled holes in the counterweights how most of them are uniform. Next try to balance an eagle crank, they are usually all over the place and require grinding in several areas like the on pictured in this thread. I think Eagle's motto is lets see how many cranks we can make in an hour moreless how many can we sell in a month instead of the quality that they should be worried about.

Basically you get what you pay for when you shop Eagle. I got a chance to discuss with them the problems I have had with their cranks last week at the PRI show and they blamed it on oil clearances. When I told them I was running the same clearances on a different engine with a stock crank they tried to blame it on the oil. Same thing I run the same oil in that other engine. Then they asked me if I torqued my rod bolts to spec. I then explained to them that I check for rod bolt stretch with a stretch gauge and they need to visit the GRP booth to learn how to do that. Then they asked me to send them pictures, I told them I will ship the damn things back to them...

JohnBradley

iTrader: (30)

Geovannie while very informative I was talking about the K1 crankshaft not rods. I am using R & R rods, but I need something in a 94mm so I am currently examining options.

Johnboy1065

iTrader: (6)

I'd like to see pics of this if that's cool

man, ya'll are gettin me paranoid about my Eagle crank lol

But hell, it's held together for about 2.5 year of abuse so I guess I should be happy with it ......not saying it's the best choice or not though

turbosenna

i'll buy jun or magnus billet crank but i couldn't decide what to do


is there anyone use titanium rods?


and is there anyone measure cp and je piston weight?

JohnBradley

iTrader: (30)

2.3 JE pistons are 285g

Sykotic

What is the name and/or part number and specs for that crank. Are they made for the 4g64 block or do you have to order it custom specs for that block?

Mark S

They are made to order 12 weeks is the normal timescale, Yes they will fit in a 4G64, The company that makes them is Arrow Crankshafts.

Mark

Sykotic

Thanks for the information.

Mark S

What stroke were you looking for as they only do 88mm 94mm and 97mm.

Mark

Sykotic

106mm, that crank looks really solid and I thought it would be best for a street car. I saw that there was a section for custom cranks so I can order it with a 106mm stroke?

Johnboy1065

iTrader: (6)

I have a question. the lightweight K1 cranks wouldnt have any ill-effects such as stretching or warping would it?

I know this is totally different but we hear a lot of times that aluminum rods stretch after a while of use

Philthy748

iTrader: (21)

K1 products are really, really nice... I wouldn't put Eagle in my lawn mower...