ROGERV

iTrader: (51)

Well I have been dealing with boost taper on my Fp green turbo with Fp wastegate. I added a Hks EVC 6 to help with taper and it did. I was boosting 30psi and holding 24-23psi at 7k with the Fp wastegate.

I wanted to try out the Forge unit so I purchased one off a member on here. Added the red spring and gave it as much preload as I could only 4 full turns (their are no more threads to give it more preload)
Wategate pressure is only 20 psi ?? With the Fp unit with about 5 turns WG preload was 24.5psi
Forge unit boosting 30psi it tapers to 22-21psi at 7k

So My question is do I have the correct wastegate?? How much preload are the guys running the Forge unit able to put . I was only able to put 4 full turns before it bottoms out

Help !!

here are some pics of the unit I bought

sparky

iTrader: (1)

I have a new Forge IX WGA. I'll compare it to your pics when I get home and let you know. Are you sure that it is not an VIII actuator?

When you say that you ran out of threads, does that mean that there are no more external threads on the actuator rod, or that the end of the actuator rod bottoms out inside the turnbuckle altough there are still some external threads visible on the rod?

Depending on exactly how much external threads are visible then you can carefully cut about 3/8" off the threaded end of the rod. Measure carefully! A picture of the WGA mounted and showing how much thread is left exposed on the rod when fully adjusted would be nice.

jmelocik

iTrader: (153)

I have a Forge unit also and have bought and sold several through out the years. The one you are showing IS for a IX (note the cast mount and slight angle just below the mount holes). I too have found that there is a limit to how far you can turn in the turnbuckle for preload. What I have done in the past (not recommended) is to cut off a small amount of the end of the actuator rod and then, using the appropriate die, cut some more threads into the actuator rod itself.

Just FYI the one you have pictured is the diaphragmless WGA and is backed by the Forge 100% lifetime guarantee (both units have that guarantee). I have contacted them on several occasions to request rebuild parts and they have happily sent them to me free of charge. You can also send them your unit and they will check it and rebuild it, also free of charge.

Josh

ROGERV

iTrader: (51)

The picture was before I mounted it. There are no more threads left. IF I remove the locking nut I might be able to get another 1/2 turn or full turn.

I guess I will just have to buy another Fp unit.
(I sold mine thinking this Forge unit was gonna be the ****)

ROGERV

iTrader: (51)

I was thinking of doing this but I don't want to screw it up. I think I will try the new Fp wastegate. I just saw yesterday on their website that they upgraded the old one.

I really like the Forge design, it looks stout. It's a shame they don't add more threads to the rod.

ROGERV

iTrader: (51)

I was going to remove the lock nut so I can have more threads but it turns out Iam also bottom out on the turnbuckle. : (

AcePitcher11

iTrader: (15)

Damn I already ordered my Forge Wastegate. We need someone from Forge or a shop that uses Forge to speak up in here and give some advice.

ROGERV

iTrader: (51)

Yeah, It sucks. Can't believe that max preload only gives you 20psi wastegate pressure.

Talked to Fp and their wastegates are on B/O. : (

sparky

iTrader: (1)

I checked the brand new one that I have and it is identical to the one shown in your pictures. I have a Green as well, but haven't yet gotten around to mounting the new actuator on the turbo.

I had the same problem with a Forge VIII actuator which I mounted on my Japanese VIII RS turbo with 9.8 hotside. I ended up having to cut about 1/4" off the threaded end. Why so? Because I like a lot of preload and I switched from the smaller O.D. 9.8 housing to the larger 10.5 housing. When changing housings the distance from the mounting flange on the compressor housing to the pivot arm on the turbine housing changes.

Like I said you`ll need to cut off about 1/4" of threaded rod. Then run it w/o the backup nut which is a redundancy anyway. Just be careful with the hacksaw and clean up the threads afterwards with a triangular file or the appropriate die.

If you feel that you must run the backup nut then you'll need to cut about 3/8" of additional thread further down the rod with a die. There is enough straight rod for about 3/8" of additional thread.

Your other option is to call Forge Good Luck!

ROGERV

iTrader: (51)

Thanks Sparky, would you happen to know what size die I would need. I don't plan on running the nut but I still think I would need more threads for preload.

Evotech8

iTrader: (4)

I had the problem with my Forge.

Fixed it by cutting 1/4" thread off the rod end and cutting a 1/4" off the turnbuckle end.

Forge really needs to re-design the rod/turnbuckle with more adjustment range.

sparky

iTrader: (1)

How many PSI of preload can you get out of it right now as it is? You said four complete turns? Which should give you about 15-16 PSI, right? That`s the minimum I like running on a Green/10.5. The ideal amount of preload for a Green/10.5 running a peak level of 24-26 PSI is 18-19 PSI, IMO.

I measured the amount of thread on the Forge IX DV and if you cut off exactly 1/4" it`ll allow you to increase preload approximately another 4 PSI. So, if you are seeing 15 PSI preload as is now, then with the extra 1/4" you should be able to get it up to about 19 PSI which is a good amount of preload, IMO.

I don`t know what the thread is offhand, but I can check it out for you. Keep in mind that at anything over 18-19 PSI you may be asking for trouble. There is the issue of excessive shaft speed as reported by Robert and Tom who measure these types of things.

I like 18-19 PSI and maybe an absolute max of 20-21 PSI. I don`t see any need for going beyond that level of WG preload. I ran my Green/10.5 at a 26.5 PSI peak with 19 PSI of preload and it spools up real nice. No need for more.

EDIT: The issue of taper on the Green can be remedied by porting the turbine housing's outlet area. There is a guy in Santa Rosa, CA who does an excellent porting job. You can get his contact info through Bryan at GST in Hayward, CA. The boost logs done at GST on all the Greens ported by Steve exhibit zero taper.

ROGERV

iTrader: (51)

Right now I am seeing 20psi wastegate pressure it only holds 21psi at 7k.
On my fp unit I had it at 24psi wastegate pressure which held 24psi at 7k
I will be boosting 30psi on my green setup.

diiirk@AwdMotorsports

iTrader: (12)

im not sure exactly how much preload ive got on my forge on the green. but i do know that it is not maxed out on turns like some of you have mentioned. on the dyno im hitting 32 psi and holding 24 by redline. holds more on the street though.

sparky

iTrader: (1)

The way to set the preload properly is to run a hose directly from the compressor housing discharge nipple to the port on the WGA. With the turnbuckle adjusted to where it freely slides on and off the WG's pivot arm peg, you should see about 11 PSI which is called base wastegate pressure.

From that point of base wastegate pressure you rotate the turnbuckle in shortening the overall length of the actuator rod increasing preload by about 1 PSI per full rotation.

I want to make sure that I am understanding what you mean when you say "wastegate pressure". It`s easy to mixup the terms: wastegate pressure, wastegate preload, spring pressure, base pressure, and etc.

The taper is a separate issue. Taper has more to do with the amount of backpressure in the turbine inlet area of the turbine housing. Taper should be dealt with by porting the turbine discharge area of the turbine housing because the Green`s larger diameter turbine exducer is excessively shrouded within the original casting.