Hey guys.
I'm looking for the best twin plate for my EvoIII.
So far this looks like the cheapest and most reliable I have seen.
Any comments on this one?

 

I have this clutch in my Evo and a few of the guys here have them in their DSM's. It's a great clutch as it last's a long time and hold's a ton of power. I am making 414hp and 436tq and have about 10k miles on it and I abuse it a lot. It has never slipped once. Our lead tech made around 800hp on one and it's still in the car after running a 9.9!

The only complaint anyone has with this clutch is the drive ability is not very good. It's like an on/off switch and takes some getting used to. If your not worried about this then this is the clutch for you!

Let me know if your interested in pricing!

-Bill

 

How is it when it comes to crankwalk? On a DSM or early Evo?
I actually sent an e-mail last night I think inquiring about how much shipping to the Cayman Islands would cost?

 

We use this on 2 of our 1G (6 bolt though) cars and it works awesome. We have got 60+ passes out of the one in our low 9 second 1G at 47psi and the low 10 second 1G has held at least that if not closer to 100 passes at 550whp+. I strongly recommend them, but I cant comment on problems with crankwalk in the early 7 bolts. My understanding is thats more the thrustwasher design and is amplified by a heavy single pressure plate rather than total clamping force.

 

It is going to help against crankwalk because it takes less pressure compared to say an ACT 2900!

I'll send you a PM about shipping right now.

 

I use it on my Evo II road race/hillclimb car and it's been good. Can't comment on the crankwalk issue because i have a Galant block however the pedal pressure is similar or less than an ACT2600.

I have broken two transmissions since getting the clutch. 4th gear both times. I suspect that there is no slippage on engagement thus a heavy shockload on the gears.

Alex

 

good clutch for the money. A bit harsh. can be very hard on drivetrain parts if not driven correctly

 

It's actually easier on the T-case, axles and rear diff vs. a single disc if you pre-load it a bit with the e-brake. I've been using them since 2003 in my Talon and 2004 in my EVO 2. Your not going to find a better clutch for the money. I also run 1/3 Redline Shockproof to 2/3 Redline 75w90. It helps a lot with 4 gear breakage. Usually 4th gear breaks from excessive heat, not from aggresive clutches.

 

Well thanks for the comments guys, looks like I will be going with this clutch!

 

You should, it's a great clutch as everyone has already said. I run one too.

 

When it comes to daily driving.... Is it possible to get use to it?

 

Absolutely, but it does take some getting used to in regards to engagement...

 

I have a Tilton twin disc, and it is very similar, so I can possibly comment. It does take some getting used to for daily driving, but after a few weeks it becomes easier. I love the Hydraulic T/B on my Tilton, and a friend loves his on his Quartermaster. The Hydraulic T/B makes it well worth it if its part of the package.

As for a daily, I like it a lot, and my friend does too.

 

4th gear breaks because it's the only one that's undercut to fit the bearing on it's shaft.



If you look to the right of the tapered needle bearing you'll see how Mitsu cut underneath the gear to fit the bearing race underneath the gear face. It was likely an effort to save valuable space in the box but it sacrificed strength which is exploited by heavy shockload.

 

I see...
Thankfully hear @ our local track we don't have a 1/4 mile, just an 1/8 mile so I don't really get to use 4th gear.