yea, make sure you dont bend a valve or something. sounds like thats whats happening

 

i'm going to have pull my motor out i guess. dammit

 

you are only in true TDC every 5 or 6 cranks of the crank... if you cant turn the crank, or the cam to get them to align, your valves are hitting your piston... you need to move your cams and play with them a little bit...

 

ok i'll try to put the TB back on later on today to see if the crank will move with it on. the crank will be off a tooth to TDC. you guys think i should move the cam gears off by a tooth as well?

 

Loosen up the cam caps to relieve the tension on the valve springs and this will bring all of the valves up into the head. Align the cams for installing the timing belt. Now turn the crank to where it needs to be...it will spin freely because all of the valves are out of the way. Retighten the cam caps and install the timing belt according to the factory manual. Hopfully you didn't muscle the crank while trying to turn it with all the valves hanging down into the cylinders out of sync. Good luck

 

where are the cam caps located?

 

pull the valve cover off. They are what's holding the cams to the head. 2 bolts per cap. The caps have #'s on them for the order they are, and arrows I believe.

 

Yes, they are under the valve cover and only loosen them evenly a little at a time until there is no tension between the rocker arms and the springs. Later on, tighten them back up evenly in multiple steps.

 

ok so that means opening up my vavle cover to get to the cam caps. ok any special tool i need to do this job?

 

Just a socket and ratchet. Most suggest though..that you put a fresh bead of rtv silicone back down so it doesn't leak oil when you put the valve cover back on.

**Don't over tighten the bolts when re-assembling!!!! I can't tell you how many people I've seen crack their nifty magnesium valve cover!

 

Good luck. No special tools. Hopefully you have a tensioner tool or just take out the auto tensioner and put it in a vice with a allen in it to lock it in place. There is a special tool for the tensioner pulley but its not a must but does make the job allot easier.

 

good to know. its a good thing my neighbor has a Snap-On torque wrench that i can borrow any time

 

yeah i use the C-clamp for the auto tensioner.

 

I've bent valves turning the crank, with the belt off. Replacing valves sucks. Make sure you do a compression test after your all done. It should let you know if you've bent any.

 

This really isn't a hard or complicated job to do...if you know how to do it properly. Takes me about 1.5 hours start to finish now to complete. First step would be to remove the spark plugs if you already haven't, it'll make rotating the crank a lot easier...but only if you set the crank to TDC BEFORE you removed the belt. You cannot rotate the crank around if it's not set right from the beginning or else you will contact the valves. If you've contacted the valves and put some pressure on the crank to rotate, you probably tweaked some valves and will end up having to change them. Only cyl. #1 should be at TDC at the beginning of the combustion cycle with all valves closed, although cyl. #4 may be closed also but in the middle of the cycle. At least you've learned a hard lesson for next time.

Also, I've never had to use a screwdriver to hold either the oil pump or the balance shaft in place, they always seem to stay right where I want them, and allow me enough clearance to move the oil pump 1 tooth out of time to line up correctly once the tensioner is released.