This is a long story and hard to explain so I will try to make it as short and as accurate as possible.

I recently got the 3.5 ic and pipe kit from ETS. After installed, I took the car for a test run. 5th gear about 16-20 psi uicp blew off at the ic. I tried to make it home (I was right down the street) but couldn't. After an hour of lying in the middle of the road I got the pipe back on good enough for it to run.

Next day I took it all off and reinstalled everything and did a boost leak test. everything seemed good. I drove the car to dinner and still everything was fine. When we went to leave to head home I noticed the car didn't sound right(I thought it was just cold) the check engine light came on. As I took off the car was real "jerky" even though my foot stayed on the gas pedal RPM's would drop and then POW (like I floored it)

The next day I did it again. Took everything apart and reinstalled the FMIC, boost leak test, and this time I checked my plugs. After searching on here I didn't think they looked that bad, but I went ahead and replaced them with the Denso Iridium 1 step colder gapped to .025

I reset the ECU and then let the car Idle for about 10-15min.
car ran great. I went out hit my boost levels and held them. No pipes blew, held boost like normal. I went to Walmart to get somethings and again the car ran great. I was sitting at an intersection waiting to go home and I literally heard the car click or change and looked down and the check engine light came on and I have the same problem.

It idles slightly rough, but when you take off it's somewhat normal then it just drops, the nose dives like I hit the brakes, RPM's drop like I depressed the clutch, boost gauge stays at 0, oil pressure stays the same, but my EGT gauge drops and spikes with the RPM's. And the process repeats.

I am at a complete loss I have no idea. I hope I have told everything that will help you have an idea of the problem is I can enjoy my car again.

I am waiting on code reader now, my girl friend is out trying to find me one.
I downloaded scantech and can't seem to get that to work on any of the 3 computers I've put it on.

Just in case this helps my mods are as follows:
255 fuel pump
HKS EVC V 24lbs
tbe
ETS 3.5 fmic
ETS intake
ETS l and u icp
Forge recirc. bov

Please let me know if you need to know anything else, I will post the code and continue to read when I can.

CODES:
PO442
EVAP Emission Control System Leak (small)
PO122TPS/pedal position sensor A circuit low input
PO107 Map/Baro Circuit low input


Thank You
Buddy

 

1. Boost leak possibility??? Did you place the t-clamps in the right places.
2. Fitment off the pipes??? Is everything where its supposed to be, how about the LICP??? Is that on right.
3. Not sure about the plugs though.(maybe not an issue at all) i would rock the NGK BPR7ES(cheaper and highly recommended by all) You do have them gapped correctly though.
4. Tune, did you have one???? Sounds like your getting boost creep.

Head over to auto zone or napa they will get a code for you free of charge!!!

 

went to autozone said they can only read codes during the day.
I had a tune done a lil before the Ic.
All the pipes seemed to fit right.
I guess my car is coming apart again.
everything is always a prob I'm about to say F it and take it to CBRD and get 'er built

 

Can I ask you why you went with the colder Denso Iridium plugs? I assume you are using the IW-24's? At your level of mods, the stock heat range (IW-22) work perfectly fine. I experimented with some colder IW-24's at the suggestion of someone and the idle was never as good as the IW-22's and I was having a high RPM misfire.

 

Yes they are the IW-24's I was going to stay with the stock heat range but I called my tuner and he suggested them.

 

You might want to try some new spark plugs to see if your issues clear up. I still think your current plugs are too cold for your application. I'm running HKS cams and a dose of water/alcohol injection and the stock heat range plugs have been working great so far.

 

Codes added to op

 

this happened with the stock heat range also

 

this sounds like a good size leak. check everything over.

 

That's whit I as thinking too but I can't figure out why it goes away and runs fine after I reset my ecu then just pops back up

Thanks for everyone's input

Buddy

 

Yeah, does sound like a good size leak. As wevo1985 says I would really look closely at everything once again to look for leaks. Good luck.

 

here are a few things...

check all of your vaccuum lines on the underside of the intake manifold... around the EGR etc... they can blow off.... or the larger vacuum line (3/8") that comes off the mani that returns to the rear of the car......

the IC pipes blowing off can cause the weird TPS codes and such.... (i had a car do this the other day on the dyno)........

check those lines, do ur pressure test.... and see what you come up with.

cb

 

I checked all my lines even where the intake mani meets the engine. I can't seem to find any. I was talking to a local mechanic the other day he told me to clean my tb really good.

He had a ford truck that wouldn't run right, cut out on him, blah blah blah he cleaned the tb and ran like new.

anyone had this trouble. I just took a look at mine and she's pretty nasty lol I'm going to give this a try

CBRD Thanks for your input

 

Hmm im somewhat local if you wanted to stop out and take a look at it together. I like to consider myself pretty savvy when it comes to diagnosing these types of issues. Like for instance those are the codes you get when you do a boost leak test and turn the key on.