Sorry, this car isn't going to be here that long.

I've never had this issue on a Honda, waiting 52 minutes and doing the same thing seems irrelevant. If Hondas had this problem, i'd have seen it a hundred times. I guess you're going to have to take my word that it fires right up. lol

I will continue to add data as I come across it.

 

1. I have a fresh brand new mini battery (1 mo. old) - I dont foresee this as my issue. Battery voltage doesn't drop any lower than normal imo...

2. The table you want that you can select the step down of the ipw % - I made it all 100% - the ipw at start-up did not taper in the log and the car did not fire and when it did it was really sluggish from being to rich....dont wanna do that to many times - but I felt the need to test it.

3. I have my wideband wired in un-interrupted, its wired off ignition power so it keeps the voltage during cranking. Used a turbo timer harness and tapped in that way and I have a FP gauge.

4. Dan and I have not switch injectors that work in his car - maybe we need to but I thought the test of injectors not working on my car and then worked in his sufficed that its not injector related? At least we were satisfied ....

- FYI Dans car has ID1000's and starts 100% perfect - I saw it myself and started his car a few times......its starts correctly. He swapped in the set I sent back to ID into his car prior to shipping and they started the same as the ones in his car he claimed except they did not start in my car correctly - not sure what more proof we need? haha

5. My Mods

2006 Evo 9 88950015
v7 Tephra Patch
Mr. Fred PSI based Boost Control
OMNI 4 bar MAP
GM 3-port solenoid
Walbro 255 pump (modded)
ID 1000cc injectors
Amsoil Cone Filter and Stock intake pipe (MAF version)
Amsoil cone filter and hard pipe (SD Version)
3" TBE (no cat) rear o2 still in place.
Zietronix Wideband
LICP and UICP
Odyssey PC680 battery
Stock Everything else......
SD Patch - Currently back on MAF.

Dans mods are the same except stock battery, stock IC piping, LC-1 wideband, and he is currently on SD w/ stock intake pipe and amsoil cone filter.

 

I certainly wish Pittsburgh, PA was close to Dallas - I would bring my car in so you could have at it in the name of science.

 

Guys I don't mean reduction of cranking pulse width by time cranking...

I MEAN... reduction in Startup IPW, Cranking pulse width etc. based on time since key off.

Jin explained it to me as that your ignition turns off, but your injectors still fire when you're turning off the car. This fills the cylinder and runners with unburnt fuel. After some time that fuel evaporates/condenses etc. His first language isn't English so it's a bit tough to pick up all he's laying down if you catch my drift.

 

I just spent the last several hours reading and trying to wrap my head around this problem, I have a thought that may be totally stupid and out in left field. What if the resistor pack mod was causing some sort of ignition problem? Some people may have inadvertently done something different with this portion of the swap to the ID1000's and have "lucked out" and gotten things right? What if it is a completely different system or set of sensors that is causing this issue? Sorry If I sound ignorant but it's 0345 in the morning over here in Afghanistan and I'm thinking so far out of the box I may be in the wrong shoe store!!! LOL

Josh

 

I thought of that Josh. Doesn't hold much weight though because the injectors work at all other times.

I removed the resistor pack and soldered all the wires together and then crimped it with a large copper end cap and then shrink wrapped the whole thing.

I got a go ahead on cutting up a stock intake manifold to hold the injectors for the spray test!

I'm bringing out the sawzall tonight

 

Dude!!! Sawzall on a good stock manifold???? **** I have a slightly buggered up one that would be better for cutting up! LOL Thanks for letting us know that you did try what I was talking about.

Josh

 

what about the idle stepper tables? Would a hot motor not want slightly more air than a cold one? kinda like an electronic choke to richen up the mixture when it's cold? what if you depressed the gas pedal slightly when trying to start it when having this "hot start" issue? I'm just throwing things out there now to see if anything rings a bell or tips someone off to something that may work.

Josh

 

Tony,

I can bring my Evo IX down some afternoon if you want to play around with it. We could swap between the stock ecu and the m800 pretty easily as well to compare.

 

Should be easy for you to say if the Motec solves the problem once you get that up and running, no?

 

My ID1000 fires the engine right up all the time...hot or cold

 

dammm im totally offtopic and sorry but

im having the same problem , just finished my build ,

and now my evo wont start , cause the injectors are not sparying , i have pressure cause i can see it on the fuel pressure gauge , but the stock injectors just dont want to spray

i checked

all conections , all sensors , ecu ,

but for some reason the injectors just dont want to spray the fuel into the cylinders ,

can anyone help out

 

gfng,
Did you swap your immobilizer code?

 

thanks for asking , nope my evo doent have aftermarket immobilizer , or factory either it was removed , i know if crank sensor dosent receive a signal , there will be no fuel out of injectors , so we tested that sensor and i was receiving its signal , somehow these injector dont want to **** in the cylinders

1. brand new pump

2. the fuel rail s going to explode cause i tried crancking some much and it build pressure on the rail and no injector has sprayed

3. some how there is no signal going to the injectors

 

You should probably start a different thread as this has nothing to do with the topic, but have you checked to see if your injector resistor pack is plugged in? Assuming it is, check to see if you have 12v at the injector plugs. Also, your fuel rail will have the same pressure in it whether the injectors are firing or not, that's what the pressure regulator is there for.