Buschur Racing begins "Project White" a wicked street build.
Feb 4, 2009, 08:43 AM
#1
Buschur Racing begins "Project White" a wicked street build.
I received the "new" 2003 EVO8 I bought yesterday. The car has 800 original miles on it and was started as a project back in 2003 and never finished. I bought the car from Tym Switzer, who use to work for me and is now in the business of building some bad *** Porsche's.
This thread is going to detail the build of the car in much further detail than we have done in the past. Should make for a good chunk of information of how we basically do things and what to expect.
Here are the plans for the car. Some of this may change but I don't think it is going to change by much.
Per request I have added the full retail pricing to the list of parts.
BR 2.3 liter Stage 3 shortblock ($3,550)
-JE pistons
-Manley Turbo Tuff rods
-Stock 2.4 liter crank, balanced and polished
-BR balance shaft eliminator kit
BR Stage 3 cylinder head ($1625+$60 for inconel upgrade)
-Manley Springs/retainers
-Supertech +.5 mm intake valves
-Supertech +.5mm inconel exhaust valves
-O-ringed deck
Front cover, oil pump, gasket kits, oil, filter, antifreeze, new oil cooler, head studs, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump etc. All the things we prefer to replace when doing a full build. ($1250)
Used Jun 272 cams with stock cam gears ($500'ish used value on cams)
Forced Performance Red, ported and coated turbine housing, ($1795+$195 porting/coating)
BR SS 02 housing ($195)
BR ported and coated exhaust manifold ($195)
BR 3" turboback with SD muffler and Magnaflow ($995)
BR race FMIC ($799)
BR lower upper and lower i/c pipes, powder coated black ($560)
BR MAF pipe, powder coated black ($210)
BR lightweight battery kit ($280)
BR lightweight center member ($275)
Stock ignition system
Stock ECU
BR double pumper ($500)
E85 fuel
PTE 1,200 cc injectors ($345)
Exedy triple HD metalic, push style clutch ($3400)
BR ported stock intake manifold ($145)
BR 65 mm throttle body ($300)
Bushwacker Stage 1 trans ($850 for Stage 1)
Bushwacker rebuilt transfer case with RS differential ($350 for Stage 1, includes big bolt kit and shims)
Eclipse double DIN head unit with DVD, Nav, AM/FM CD
Volk TE37 white wheels, 18"x8.5"
Apexi S1 coil over suspension ($1400)
Suspension Techniques rear sway bar ($199)
I know many of you are wanting the stock ECU left in and for it to pass emissions and I am going to do that, but in my own way. Bottom line is for emission testing now they hook up to the OBDII port and if there is no CEL's and they can see a cat on the car you pass.
I will be taking all the crap out of the engine bay that clutters it up, such as the intake bracket, EGR, FPR solenoid, etc. and turning those CEL's off in the tune. This will keep the engine bay looking clean like I like them. I was also going to use a fake cat body under the car. I ordered one that was recommended in the other thread on the car. They are, however, not stainless steel and pretty heavy, so I am going to pass on that. I will be using a SD muffler where the cat goes instead. For someone who seriously needed to pass the visual test just know that we can make a fake cat, you can run a real cat or you can buy one of the fake ones like I did. Bottom line is I want to be able to pull into an emissions check station and pass. I may do it with the car when I am done just to prove a point and make sure it will go through. I think with the SD muffler in the center where the car goes most inspection stations would let it go assuming it is a cat anyway.
Now for the pictures.
Shot of the car:
Shot of the wheels:
Original window sticker:
Picture of the empty engine bay:
Measuring main bearings:
Measuring the crank:
Main bearings in the block:
Crank in the block:
Setting the torque on the mains:
Checking the thrust:
Checking the bore size:
Checking piston size:
Checking ring gap:
JE piston and Manley Turbo Tuff rod:
Installing the piston/rod:
Polished rod bearings:
Rods and pistons installed:
Picture showing the balancing holes in the crankshaft:
That is the assembled shortblock and how we do it. I will be updating the thread as parts get built and with more interesting pictures and such.
Jarrod was busy this afternoon with the stereo installation. Here's a few shot of him installing the Orbital kit in the car with the Eclipse double DIN unit.
Factory stuff removed:
Bottom HVAC installed with new kit:
Install complete:
Cylinder head pictures:
This build is going to take awhile as we have a lot of parts to gather up to do it. Please be patient. Feel free to ask any questions you like.
This thread is going to detail the build of the car in much further detail than we have done in the past. Should make for a good chunk of information of how we basically do things and what to expect.
Here are the plans for the car. Some of this may change but I don't think it is going to change by much.
Per request I have added the full retail pricing to the list of parts.
BR 2.3 liter Stage 3 shortblock ($3,550)
-JE pistons
-Manley Turbo Tuff rods
-Stock 2.4 liter crank, balanced and polished
-BR balance shaft eliminator kit
BR Stage 3 cylinder head ($1625+$60 for inconel upgrade)
-Manley Springs/retainers
-Supertech +.5 mm intake valves
-Supertech +.5mm inconel exhaust valves
-O-ringed deck
Front cover, oil pump, gasket kits, oil, filter, antifreeze, new oil cooler, head studs, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump etc. All the things we prefer to replace when doing a full build. ($1250)
Used Jun 272 cams with stock cam gears ($500'ish used value on cams)
Forced Performance Red, ported and coated turbine housing, ($1795+$195 porting/coating)
BR SS 02 housing ($195)
BR ported and coated exhaust manifold ($195)
BR 3" turboback with SD muffler and Magnaflow ($995)
BR race FMIC ($799)
BR lower upper and lower i/c pipes, powder coated black ($560)
BR MAF pipe, powder coated black ($210)
BR lightweight battery kit ($280)
BR lightweight center member ($275)
Stock ignition system
Stock ECU
BR double pumper ($500)
E85 fuel
PTE 1,200 cc injectors ($345)
Exedy triple HD metalic, push style clutch ($3400)
BR ported stock intake manifold ($145)
BR 65 mm throttle body ($300)
Bushwacker Stage 1 trans ($850 for Stage 1)
Bushwacker rebuilt transfer case with RS differential ($350 for Stage 1, includes big bolt kit and shims)
Eclipse double DIN head unit with DVD, Nav, AM/FM CD
Volk TE37 white wheels, 18"x8.5"
Apexi S1 coil over suspension ($1400)
Suspension Techniques rear sway bar ($199)
I know many of you are wanting the stock ECU left in and for it to pass emissions and I am going to do that, but in my own way. Bottom line is for emission testing now they hook up to the OBDII port and if there is no CEL's and they can see a cat on the car you pass.
I will be taking all the crap out of the engine bay that clutters it up, such as the intake bracket, EGR, FPR solenoid, etc. and turning those CEL's off in the tune. This will keep the engine bay looking clean like I like them. I was also going to use a fake cat body under the car. I ordered one that was recommended in the other thread on the car. They are, however, not stainless steel and pretty heavy, so I am going to pass on that. I will be using a SD muffler where the cat goes instead. For someone who seriously needed to pass the visual test just know that we can make a fake cat, you can run a real cat or you can buy one of the fake ones like I did. Bottom line is I want to be able to pull into an emissions check station and pass. I may do it with the car when I am done just to prove a point and make sure it will go through. I think with the SD muffler in the center where the car goes most inspection stations would let it go assuming it is a cat anyway.
Now for the pictures.
Shot of the car:
Shot of the wheels:
Original window sticker:
Picture of the empty engine bay:
Measuring main bearings:
Measuring the crank:
Main bearings in the block:
Crank in the block:
Setting the torque on the mains:
Checking the thrust:
Checking the bore size:
Checking piston size:
Checking ring gap:
JE piston and Manley Turbo Tuff rod:
Installing the piston/rod:
Polished rod bearings:
Rods and pistons installed:
Picture showing the balancing holes in the crankshaft:
That is the assembled shortblock and how we do it. I will be updating the thread as parts get built and with more interesting pictures and such.
Jarrod was busy this afternoon with the stereo installation. Here's a few shot of him installing the Orbital kit in the car with the Eclipse double DIN unit.
Factory stuff removed:
Bottom HVAC installed with new kit:
Install complete:
Cylinder head pictures:
This build is going to take awhile as we have a lot of parts to gather up to do it. Please be patient. Feel free to ask any questions you like.
Last edited by David Buschur; Mar 25, 2009 at 05:25 PM.
Feb 4, 2009, 08:55 AM
#5
Looking great,
A few questions,
Have you considered using the felpro permatorque Headgasket ?.. If you have not, what type of headgasket will you be using for this build.
Last question,
What type of finish have you run to the top of deck ( RA600, RA1000 ?)
Thanks for taking the time to post this up
A few questions,
Have you considered using the felpro permatorque Headgasket ?.. If you have not, what type of headgasket will you be using for this build.
Last question,
What type of finish have you run to the top of deck ( RA600, RA1000 ?)
Thanks for taking the time to post this up
Feb 4, 2009, 09:33 AM
#6
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Do you guys clearance the block for the rod ends, or are those rods OK without.
Also, what do you do for oil squirter clearance on the piston skirt?
What bearings are those?
Also, what do you do for oil squirter clearance on the piston skirt?
What bearings are those?
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Feb 4, 2009, 09:46 AM
#8
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In the interest of legality...I would say run a 100cell HFC. Is 10-15 HP really that important? Considering that you want a true street legal car. Just an idea.
. I hope it plays nice with the stock ECU
