I'm with you sparky ... the bypass ports seem to be the only remaining thing that could cause the issue. I can see the EPM housing causing a little creep ... 20 psi @ 5500 or so, but not 30+. There is definitely a restriction in the WG flow somewhere though ...

Random question ... and I only ask because we've all done something stupid before. Any chance there could be a foreign object in the WG port? A rag or similar? Maybe left from the install?

 

Thnxx Sparky, I know what you meant by your post...TB, we been through this the OP and I on the phone, that's why he went ahead and ported the housing after taking it apart for like the umpteen time....matt/mugen777 we all feel for yas. A restriction somewhere has to be the culprit, but where? Only thing I can think is the flapper is somehow not working properly since the OP has gone to oem WGA and run the source line straight to the WGA, also running the oem preload.
Mystery to say the least...keep us posted as we all want to know the outcome, and again matt if you need anything dont hesitate to let me know.

 

So ja, I have the exact same issue with my Red. Only difference is that the original Red turbine housing (with a ported w/g port) had the opposite issue, where the turbo would not make more than 15 psi. This was due to a very sticky flapper door (which I personally checked when the housing was off). Damage was most likely due to bad shipping. But this is enough to confirm that the Megan O2 housing on my car works well to “discharge” the wasted gas.

FP overnight’ed me a replacement turbine housing. I did not check (or ask) if the w/g was ported on or not – I’m assuming it’s not (will double check today). Now boost creeps to 30PSI not matter what.

Inco9nito99 and I tried a list of different things, including replacing the high pressure (23pbs) actuator with the 18psi one off my “old” FP White –same results, boost creep to around 30PSI. We are convinced that the issue is an unported w/g port. There is a test to confirm this which we did not try, remove the actuator rod, tie the flapper door open and see if it still spikes - willing to bet it will.

Will call the shop I’m working through today and get their advice. Good luck Mugen777 – keep us posted.

UPDATE: just spoke to the local shop that installed my Red - they confirmed that this "new" housing was ported as well. They will call FP today and do some brain storming. Otherwise I need to decide on a external gate setup, or just tune it for around 30psi.

UPDATE 2: Shop spoke to FP, and it appears as if the O2 housing is the issue. FP recommended the WORKS housing, but from what I see you would need to get the WORKS dp to make it all work (??). Also, anyone have any experience with TITEK or EPM with respect to this boost screep issue. Those appear to be a cheaper alternative to WORKS.

 

The OP has the Epm unit and is still creeping. I was thinking about buying the Titek unit when I do my Red setup, but with these boost creeping people poping out I don't know..... : (

 

All the reds I have seen have a single flapper and a dual opening hole

I port inisde the two openings and also on the edge of the turbine housing near where it meets the 02 housing

Next time I will post some pics

 

I'd gladly port the sucker myself without charge. I figure I can tame the beast. (If not I'd melt it into a lump with the acetylene and you would have a good doorstop or we can throw it into the river).

At most it is a two to three hour massage job. The only problem is I live outside the U.S. so shipping is prohibitively expensive. I feel for you Matt buddy! I just wish I lived down the street from you and I'd gladly port the bypass port myself.

 

been readin on ur thread for the past few pages, using my 0.02 it looks like uve ruled out all possibilities except for one, did u try adjusting the wastegate itself....if ur havin boost creep problem, uve swapped the hotside, changed boost controllers.... u have a free flowin 02 housing....try swappin the wastegate itself, see if fp will give u one of theres, or if u have one try another one......just my 0.02
good luck op

 

Alright I want to think everybody who has helped me out in here! Especially sparky, epm, and forced performance! Robert sent me out a wastegate which I received today its a stock evo ix wastegate. It seems to be working normal I still need to do some playing around with the preload to see what I can do.

Here was my problem I tried a VIII wastegate first not a IX. The oem VIII wastegate has a shorter rod and the wastegate rod is almost at its max just sitting on the flapper arm. It simply wasn't moving the wastegate flapper. I pressure tested my fp hp wastegate that was initially on the car, I busted the diapraghm. It was my fault everytime I made an adjustment on the preload , I would put the road back on the flapper arm I would use shop air to push the rod out which is (100-150psi ) which caused the diapraghm to blow!!!

Anyways I will follow-up tomm with who it does after some more adjustment.

DONT USE SHOP AIR ON YOUR WASTEGATE!!!!

 

Sorry for the triple post.

 

Wow another booboo!

 

Wow it is about time, man. Yeah the shorter VIII actuator rod, its different mounting bracket, different actuator mounting angle and the reclocked positioning on the larger diameter IX compressor housing add up to nonlinear actuator rod movement=wastegate bind. Good to see that FP was so helpful. They are great people!

Edit: Crumb! I was going to try to post up a few pics of my ported 10.5 H.S.'s bypass port radii for you mugen. Even got my daughter to snap some pics today. Well, at least I won't have to go through the agony of learning how to attach an image to my post. LOL

 

Well man I think i spoke to soon dammit. I just went out on the interstate did a few 3rd and 4th gear pulls,2nd gear is fine but not the longer gears.The boost is creeping . Not as bad as before its more manageable...... I still have a problem though. I have played with the preload from all the way tight to all the way backed out...

 

Whats shop air?

 

try a new boost controller.......what r u runnin

 

Test it in top gear which will tend to creep more than the lower gears. So, what creeps less with respect to WGA adjustment: all the way tight, or all the way loose? Incidentally what is the ambient air temp when testing?