Ok, so my car died at an intersection and wouldn't start, took it to the dealer where they told me that it overheated so bad it warped the connecting rods and all the pistons were seized in the cylinders. (they told me the warped rod thing when I asked why it still turned over.)

BS!

When they told me I needed to spend 10000 dollars to replace the engine, turbo and radiator I took the car to my dads shop (private not pro) and let it sit because I was way to busy at work to deal with it. Now that I have time I opened the hood to find it in pieces (intake to compressor hard pipe loose, random IC piping loose, waterpump pulley removed, and drive belt stuffed inbetween random pulleys) So first thing reinstalled waterpump pulley (not the most fun) replaced the drivebelt (tortured myself finding the right length breaker bar for the tensioner pulley) and made sure everything was still inline for the timing (cam gears, timing belt intact, crank position). I removed all the spark plugs and found (not really much of a surprise) that the pistons are not seized at all and are sliding in the cylinders fine.

So I reinstalled all the coils (after checking all sparkplug/coil combinations for function) It wouldn't start however..

Seems to be making plenty of compression (lots of exhaust pressure for each cylinder, need to check for real but ran out of time last night) Thought it might have fuel delivery problem but I found the exhaust was very rich (got alittle lightheaded and opened the garage door ) Rechecked the spark plugs and decided they may not be producing enough spark?

Baffled why it won't start, any suggestions? No clank or clunk or ticking noise, haven't removed cam cover but didn't feel I had a reason to? I would appreciate any help you guys can offer.

Thanks!

Bill

 

You need to check the timing. Simple as that.

 

Do you have a compression tester? I know that you have identified what to listen for. It would be good to get numbers though.

You need air, spark, compression and fuel.

Check for big IC pipe leaks, check for spark. How do the plug tips look? Is there coolant in the oil?

AL

 

10k , wow, that dealership must be smoking that good stuff

 

I know I have one, but I don't know if it will work with my evo. (its kinda old-school)

I removed the air filter and it isn't drawing air in there. I will check IC piping. I have spark, but it may be weak? I don't think I ever found a proper gap for the plugs and just gaped them at .030. The tips were clean except for one that seemed to have a grey/white look, it came from cylinder 3. There is no coolant in the oil, no metal flakes but it is black. I should probably change the oil. All fluid levels seem fine though. I will get back after checking IC piping.

Bill

 

How do I check the timing if it won't run?

Bill

 

I think check timing means make sure the timing marks are all lined up correctly on the cam gears.

Anyone know what exactly the car does to keep from starting when the immobilizer code doesn't match the key? Does it not crank at all when that's the case?

Compression testers aren't that expensive.

 

checked IC piping, all tight and right...Decided to remove compressor side intake hard pipe (injen) to check compressor side fins for wear. Found no wear, but discovered a table spoons worth of oil...Abnormal? Started to undo all IC piping and discovered unknown liquid in intercooler (which contrary to my previous knowledge is aftermarket [greddy]) looks/feels like water, smells funny though. Removed IC and dumped out water (or whatever), removed heat sheild from manifold, and am now wondering what to do next... Anybody got any suggestions?

Bill

 

Spark is probably fine. It's not visually mind blowing anyway so it's probably as strong as it needs to be.

When you turn it over there are no 'fast' spots right, like a constant tone from the engine revolving? Abnormal woob woob waaaa woob would suggest bad compression on one cylinder.

Are there any check engine lights?

Is the MAF plugged in? Is the cam angle sensor plugged in? What else has been done to the car?

Is the airbox stock or is it an aftermarket filter?

Is there a chance that you hydrolocked the motor by running through a huge puddle?

Alex

 

All the cylinders are fine, they are all the same (I put hand over exhaust and counted pressure against my hand)

The MAF sensor was plugged in, I'm not sure where the cam angle sensor plugs in, here are a list of the known mods:

3in. TBE, GREDDY intercooler, injen lower and upper IC piping, injen airfilter with hardpipe kit. it has a aftermartket downpipe and cat-delete (IM not required where I live)

It has not to my knowledge been tuned for these mods, and I drove it around for 4 months or so before I experianced this problem.

It has been awhile since I drove it but I don't recall going through a big puddle or anything, how would I know if it was hydrolocked?

There has always been a engine light since I have owned the car but when I had it checked I was told it was because of the aftermarket filter. And they shut it off and it came back on. So I just ignored it out of ignorance. Since it is in pieces in my dads shop it is not likely I will get it to a shop to have the codes read anytime soon.

Is it normal to have alittle oil in the compressor side of the turbo? I would think not, although there is no play in the fins.

We have drained the radiator and we are going to take it out to check everything underneath it and see if anything is missing or out of place near or on the turbo.

What should I be looking for next?

Bill

 

yes

 

OK so my wonderful plans of saving the day and fixing my evolution in a matter of 2 days is now squashed.

I did an official compression test and got 40 psi outta the first, and 0 psi outta the rest. Guess I should have tried this first but I was optimistic (overly like usual) and figured the sound/pressure coming from the exhaust was surely normal. Either that or my dads ancient compression tester is whats screwy. But since I have flame and I have fuel, the only thing missing would be the compression.

So I buttoned it up and pushed it back into its parking spot in the yard. Now I should concentrate on other things like my pregnant wife and my job.

I will however be optimistic as possible and just say its a great excuse to buy a bunch of sweet shnaz as I go to get my car runnin!

Anybody got some insight on engine combos that will get me as much hp as I can without giving up drivability?

Bill

PS: thanks to all for your thought, time, and consideration of my problems.

 

Bill, if there were really no compression the motor would be turning over super-fast. Is that the case?

It sounds like the mysterious liquid in the IC could be water. I've seen hydrolocked motors before and water wells at the bottom of the IC. That's why I asked.

Try another compression tester... if it's still the same buy a factory shortblock and have the head checked at the machine shop.

Alex

 

It didn't seem to be turning over fast, it was going puh-puh-puh-puh in sequence, and unless it was going fast and it was the only cylinder with 40 psi turning over...then again it was my buddy that was threading the tester on, and I was turning the key, but I don't know... I have spent enough time on it to **** off my wife, I will check it out again sometime in the future. Thank you for your help. There was probably enough water to fill a double shot glass in the intercooler. What would I do if it was hydrolocked?

Bill

 

crank position sensor might be bad or damaged....a nut fell down into mine and chewed it up a rock can do the same or water can fry it....