So, im not sure how many of you read my other post a month or so ago, but my stock clutch in my evo went, so the dealership replaced it for 1k installed. and as you all can guess, that was a huge mistake! the clutch after almost exactly 4k miles is gone!i knew this would happen with my 360awhp!!!
so i cant undo the past, and im really looking to upgrade the clutch this time, as i dont want to have to replace it every 4k miles. yes, i know how to drive, i notice the clutch slipping if im on the highway, and i step on it, my rpm's go up fast then down and then up as they normally would.
the dealership says that if i put in an aftermarker clutch, they will void the warranty on the transmission. i was wondering if my transmission warranty is really THAT important to have. im not to firmiliar with them, so i was wondering what any of you would do in this situation. is there anything really THAT expensive in the tranny that a new clutch would break?

please let me know

im looking at the ACT Xtreme Duty Clutch Kit with the ACT Streetlite Flywheel

any other suggestions???

 

exedy twin disk hd or quartermaster twin disk. expensive, but worth every nickel and dime

 

Not trying to give you a bunch of crap but why would you get an OE clutch if your making that much power? Anyone on this board could have told you it wouldn't last.
As far as the tranny goes, they seem to be fairly strong. I wouldn't worry one bit about breaking anything as long as your aren't launching the thing all the time.
The clutch you buy is soley up to you, 10 people will give you 10 different answers as to which is the best. For an install check your regional forum to see what shop people recommend and go from there.

Good Luck with whatever you choose.

 

HDSS maybe, rated at 500ft/lbs, smoother engagement then the extreme pressure plate. Why were you wanting the xtreme pressure plate?

 

If you managed to kill an OEM clutch in 4K miles with just 360whp I'm guessing there is a fair bit of launching going on. If that's the case your trans/TC warranty might be important after you "fix" the clutch and move on to the next weak link. Of course the dealer might not warranty that anyway after replacing your clutch in that short of an interval and chalk it up to abuse.

I would say stop launching the car unless you like spending lots of money.

 

with this clutch, i have not launched the car once
the only time im really going "hard" on it would be on the highway, thats where i see my RPMS jumping around
and i dont ride the clutch, at all
i actually almost stall it every time i start, because i use as little of the gas pedal as possible

 

because i plan on doing alot more work to this car
in the near future i plan on doing injectors and cams

 

have you tried adjusting your clutch (slave) cylinder?

 

So what exactly do you have done to your car to make this 360whp? Cause 360 on a dynojet is pretty different than 360 on a dyno dynamics. I had that type of power on a dynojet and my stock clutch lived for over 50K miles.

I'm guessing something is not adjusted/bedded properly.

 

Bingo-exedy twin disk

 

Perrin FMIC
Injen upper and lower intercooler piping
Medallion DP/exhaust
Injen intake
MBC
Hyper Voltage System
Bigger Compressor housing
and its tuned

yeah im looking for deals on an exedy twin disk
im just looking for the right price!

 

i have not
how would i go about doing this?
why would i do this?

 

you do this to adjust your clutch engagement point. If the engagement point is off, the clutch would not be able to grip efficiently, causing excessive slipping. It also shortens the product lifespan.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...djustment.html
http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=123535
http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPa...70dcb9622f475b

 

Where in the pedal travel does your clutch engage? You might want to check that and see if the pedal needs to be adjusted. EVOMOTO has a write-up on how to do so. With 360 AWHP your clutch should not have gone out at only 4k if you have NEVER launched the car. I got 38xxx out of my OEM clutch with 330 AWHP.

 

I wouldn't take offense to this but it's your driving style. You are too rough on the clutch. I know people that are running more power then you that are still on the stock clutch. If you say you don't launch the car are you perhaps riding the clutch? Meaning do you keep your foot on the clutch pedal just to rest it there? This also could be if you aren't engaging the clutch properly. I got 30k out of my clutch and about 10k of that was with 350 hp on a mustang dyno. For you I would suggest the Exedy twin though as everyone is pointing you in the right direction. It takes a beating and works wonders. It's more expensive then let's say an Act clutch or this or that but it's going to save you money in the long run. Also with the exedy clutches if you blow it, they have rebuild kits which are cheaper then buying another clutch.