New APS BOV Stuck Open?
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New APS BOV Stuck Open?
I just purchased a new APS Dual Vent, but I'm having problems with it. For some reason, it stays open (see picture) until I put a compressor to the top of the BOV to force it shut.
When I drive around I know whether it is open or shut - its quite obvious in how it builds boost. As soon as I hit some high boost (22+), it just will stay open until I manually close it. I have the spring pressure almost to the max on the valve as well.
I replaced the line going to the top of the valve back to my intake mani. My question is, do these valves normally stay shut with the spring pressure. It seems like my valve was poorly manufactured and just sticks open.
I have my boost gauge T-ed off of the same line going to the valve, but there are no leaks, so this should be fine, right?
Why wouldn't this valve be closing under boost. I just did a boost leak test and nothing is leaking at 25psi. I just wanted to make sure I'm not missing something before I return it.
When I drive around I know whether it is open or shut - its quite obvious in how it builds boost. As soon as I hit some high boost (22+), it just will stay open until I manually close it. I have the spring pressure almost to the max on the valve as well.
I replaced the line going to the top of the valve back to my intake mani. My question is, do these valves normally stay shut with the spring pressure. It seems like my valve was poorly manufactured and just sticks open.
I have my boost gauge T-ed off of the same line going to the valve, but there are no leaks, so this should be fine, right?
Why wouldn't this valve be closing under boost. I just did a boost leak test and nothing is leaking at 25psi. I just wanted to make sure I'm not missing something before I return it.
Last edited by drewdq; Mar 2, 2009 at 05:26 PM.
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I can imagine, yes. It is 15F out right now.
Something I observed since you brought up that point: if the housing is aluminum and the piston is some kind of brass or brass alloy, they have 2 different coefficients of expansion. .000019 for brass versus .000023 for aluminum, assuming that's what its made from. I'm no engineer but isn't this valve doomed for extreme weather conditions?
It is the valve as it turns out too. I swapped in a IX BOV and it works perfectly. Hopefully I can still return this thing, or at least exchange it.
Anyone else have problems with the APS?
Something I observed since you brought up that point: if the housing is aluminum and the piston is some kind of brass or brass alloy, they have 2 different coefficients of expansion. .000019 for brass versus .000023 for aluminum, assuming that's what its made from. I'm no engineer but isn't this valve doomed for extreme weather conditions?
It is the valve as it turns out too. I swapped in a IX BOV and it works perfectly. Hopefully I can still return this thing, or at least exchange it.
Anyone else have problems with the APS?
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i have it and i still like it....iv been told to take it apart clean it and use synthetic grease to lube it and ill never have a problem with it so......you could try that or do w/e u want good luck
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I'm not new to turbo cars, this is my 4th but I don't see how that's relevant. Anyway, the valve is brand new, and it's still greasy inside so I didn't think it needed to be greased up again. I'll give it a shot anyway, thanks for the tip.
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I never had to on any of my combined 7 valves that I've owned. I've heard of doing it yes, but this time is different since the valve is new and it didn't cross my mind since it's greasy as-is.
Once again, thanks for pointing that out in your original post, I am going to give it a try.
Once again, thanks for pointing that out in your original post, I am going to give it a try.
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problem solved
Well, I lubed my APS up with some white silicone grease, and it seems to be working great as many of you probably suspected.
Thanks for the help guys, apparently this valve needs a good amount of lube on it to work well when it's very cold out. I had my doubts and didn't think to lube it any more since it was already greasy, but hopefully this thread can help someone down the road.
Thanks for the help guys, apparently this valve needs a good amount of lube on it to work well when it's very cold out. I had my doubts and didn't think to lube it any more since it was already greasy, but hopefully this thread can help someone down the road.
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I retract my previous statement - it's not fixed, and the valve is sticking open again, even after cleaning it and re-lubing it with lithium grease. Going to call APS tomorrow.
For owners of this valve, how hard is it to press open the piston, and will it return closed easily with just the spring pressure? Mine is very very difficult to press open and it does not return with even the max spring pressure. It has a lot of grease in there too!
For owners of this valve, how hard is it to press open the piston, and will it return closed easily with just the spring pressure? Mine is very very difficult to press open and it does not return with even the max spring pressure. It has a lot of grease in there too!