I just purchased a new APS Dual Vent, but I'm having problems with it. For some reason, it stays open (see picture) until I put a compressor to the top of the BOV to force it shut.

When I drive around I know whether it is open or shut - its quite obvious in how it builds boost. As soon as I hit some high boost (22+), it just will stay open until I manually close it. I have the spring pressure almost to the max on the valve as well.

I replaced the line going to the top of the valve back to my intake mani. My question is, do these valves normally stay shut with the spring pressure. It seems like my valve was poorly manufactured and just sticks open.

I have my boost gauge T-ed off of the same line going to the valve, but there are no leaks, so this should be fine, right?

Why wouldn't this valve be closing under boost. I just did a boost leak test and nothing is leaking at 25psi. I just wanted to make sure I'm not missing something before I return it.

 

well since i live in nj and u live just in pa.....its cold as **** here....the aps twin vent has a tendency to stick open iv been told in the extreme cold

 

I can imagine, yes. It is 15F out right now.

Something I observed since you brought up that point: if the housing is aluminum and the piston is some kind of brass or brass alloy, they have 2 different coefficients of expansion. .000019 for brass versus .000023 for aluminum, assuming that's what its made from. I'm no engineer but isn't this valve doomed for extreme weather conditions?

It is the valve as it turns out too. I swapped in a IX BOV and it works perfectly. Hopefully I can still return this thing, or at least exchange it.

Anyone else have problems with the APS?

 

i have it and i still like it....iv been told to take it apart clean it and use synthetic grease to lube it and ill never have a problem with it so......you could try that or do w/e u want good luck

 

You obviously didn't take it apart and re-grease it before making this thread. New to turbo cars?

 

i didn't make this thread....i have no problem with mine

 

^ I hope you know I was referring to the original poster? I read what you wrote.

 

I'm not new to turbo cars, this is my 4th but I don't see how that's relevant. Anyway, the valve is brand new, and it's still greasy inside so I didn't think it needed to be greased up again. I'll give it a shot anyway, thanks for the tip.

 

i took mine out and kinda re greased the inside, and i then i put some silicone lube on the rubber ring inside, works good so far.

 

That means you should have experienced a bov before. They require disassembling and lubing every few thousand miles.

 

+1

 

I never had to on any of my combined 7 valves that I've owned. I've heard of doing it yes, but this time is different since the valve is new and it didn't cross my mind since it's greasy as-is.

Once again, thanks for pointing that out in your original post, I am going to give it a try.

 

I have a APS unit for sale...great condition. Mine works

 

Well, I lubed my APS up with some white silicone grease, and it seems to be working great as many of you probably suspected.

Thanks for the help guys, apparently this valve needs a good amount of lube on it to work well when it's very cold out. I had my doubts and didn't think to lube it any more since it was already greasy, but hopefully this thread can help someone down the road.

 

I retract my previous statement - it's not fixed, and the valve is sticking open again, even after cleaning it and re-lubing it with lithium grease. Going to call APS tomorrow.

For owners of this valve, how hard is it to press open the piston, and will it return closed easily with just the spring pressure? Mine is very very difficult to press open and it does not return with even the max spring pressure. It has a lot of grease in there too!