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Forge recirc valve to APS twin vent with problems now

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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 07:53 PM
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Forge recirc valve to APS twin vent with problems now

Ok so took the forge off, put the aps twin vent valve in. Now the car goes pig rich at idle and stalls out like mad. No codes were thrown. Also it goes way rich at very little throttle input.

The AFR's are all over the place with this on. Any idea what the problem could be.
Could the tension adjustment screw be to tight and cause this?
Car is running on stock ecu with stock MAF.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by DS-03evo
Ok so took the forge off, put the aps twin vent valve in. Now the car goes pig rich at idle and stalls out like mad. No codes were thrown. Also it goes way rich at very little throttle input.

The AFR's are all over the place with this on. Any idea what the problem could be.
Could the tension adjustment screw be to tight and cause this?
Car is running on stock ecu with stock MAF.
I wish I had an answer for you. All I can say is that I also upgraded last year from the Forge to the APS and it works great.

I don't think it is your APS, but easy to tell by simply swapping back to a stock DV valve that you know works.

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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 02:37 AM
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I has to be the aps because when I swap back to the forge valve, car acts normal again.
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 03:14 AM
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sounds like the bov is letting air past at idle
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Petey Turbo
sounds like the bov is letting air past at idle
maybe, anyone using the aps valve like to chime in?
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 08:04 PM
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It has an adjustment right? Honestly I haven't even looked at mine since I bought the car
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 08:10 PM
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you probably just need to adjust it... when I first used the aps I had some issues that were resolved once I adjusted it...
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 05:00 PM
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How far do you guys have the set screw sticking out?
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 05:16 PM
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I don't remember I've been on a Tial for a while now. Start adjusting in small increments and go for a ride to see how it is, then keep adjusting it until it's perfect. You can also make sure that the valve opens and closes good, if it sticks use a little synthetic grease.
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 07:21 PM
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I doubt this is the case, but it's worth a shot. Two things. Wrap the adjustment screw with teflon tape. Not only that, but adjust the valve as tight as it'll go. I'm not 100% sure, but you could have it so loose, that it's leaking at idle. I doubt it, but it's possible. I'd try to tighten the screw all the way and see how that works. And agian, they're know to leak slightly at the adjustment screw, so wrap it with teflon tape.

I've had no problems with mine. I love my APS valve. I have about two threads sticking out of the top of the lock nut.
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by MitsuJDM
I doubt this is the case, but it's worth a shot. Two things. Wrap the adjustment screw with teflon tape. Not only that, but adjust the valve as tight as it'll go. I'm not 100% sure, but you could have it so loose, that it's leaking at idle. I doubt it, but it's possible. I'd try to tighten the screw all the way and see how that works. And agian, they're know to leak slightly at the adjustment screw, so wrap it with teflon tape.

I've had no problems with mine. I love my APS valve. I have about two threads sticking out of the top of the lock nut.
I wrapped the adjustment screw with teflon tape first thing before I installed it. I had about two threads sticking out past the jam nut also. Car would just go very rich and die, when I came to a stop. The Zeitronix afr spins like a top with the aps valve installed.
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