hey guys, well i swaped in the 4g64 block, but i cannot get the timming marks to line up right.


i made 280 wtq at 3,500 rpm but only 215 whp. the only thing i can think, is that my cam shafts are timmed wrong.

i have them both at -4 degrees.

can anyone help, thanks.

also, if there is a shop that could help me dial it in, that would be great as well.

 

with my 4g64 with the dohc head i had to use adjustable cam gears to get it timed correctly. when we did was, we had some extra cam caps around so we ground down the bottoms so that when tightened they would not allow the cam to spin. put the adjustable gears in place and tightened. line up the marks. then put the caps on the cams and tighten them down so the cams can not spin. then you loosen the bolts so the adjustment on the cam gears was able to move (no the bolt going through the cam into the cam shaft but the adjustment bolts). then you put the crank where it is supposed to be and install the belt. with the cam gears able to move slightly so that they teeth line up. the 4g64 dohc belt is longer than the 4g63 and the 4g64 dohc gears are different than the 4g63. so this one way to get it in time, another is to invest in some 4g64 dohc cam gears from mitsubishi but they are hard to find since most 4g64 are sohc. good luck.

 

well im using the evo timming belt, and evo adjustable cam gears.

it just that the timming marks on the valve cover did not line up right, so it was kind of a "looks good enough"

 

set the cam gears back to 0. put them in time without the belt on. clamp down the cams so they cant spin. loosen the adjustment on the gears and put the belt on and then tighten down the adjustment and then unclamp the shafts. mine was always a little off because i was using stock gears so i know about the "looks good enough". then i got some adjustable ones and put it in time correctly and it really did pick up some power. she will make crazy torque down low and the power will come on much faster than the 4g63.

http://webpages.charter.net/gotrnet/...jan31_dyno.jpg

 

That is a very nice looking dyno plot. What turbo? Have you had any head gasket issues? What studs and head gasket are you running? O-ringed? What bore?

Sorry for all of the questions, I'm building a 4G64/Evo motor right now.

Thanks.

 

My understanding is that the timing marks on the valve cover are no longer accurate. I would buy a cam degree kit, or just have a local shop degree the cams in for you. BTW, how are you using an Evo belt on a 4G64? I'm really surprised its even long enough to get it on the gears.

 

its tight, but it works

 

Take the motor out, buy a DOHC 4G64 belt, get the cam spec from manufacturer, and degree them with a degree wheel and dial guage.

 

wish i could have done that the first time.

 

No need to take the motor out just get a 4g64 belt and the timing specs for your cams and time them correctly. All camshafts should be timed

Derek

 

thanks she has been a long time coming. i am running a gt35r and a cometic headgasket and apr studs. i have had ZERO head gasket issues. he block is o-ringed and it is an 85 with a .020 overbore. think if memory serves that is like 85.5 mm. this motor is not in a evo. it is in my 99 eclipse spyder and uses a 1g eclipse head but the timing issues are the same. i too am using a 4g63 belt, it is tight but works great.

 

If your running a 4G64 block then your head gasket bore size is to small. Stock bore on a 4G64 is 86.5mm. Not the best thing to do.

 

sorry about that, you are correct. i for some reason was thinking of the 4g63 bore (85) and should have said 86.5 + .5 overbore to get me to 87mm with a headgasket to match. it has been a while since i had to think of those numbers, built the engine almost 2.5 years ago. thanks for catching that chris, i hate putting bad information out there. once again sorry about that.

 

Mine is 87mm as well. I hope I have as good of luck as you have with the head gasket.

 

i would recommend o-ringing the block. no telling why i haven't had any problems, but i know it helps when done correctly. i was running 32psi on the build before i o-ringed with no issues what so ever but last time i was working on the car i decided to go ahead and o-ring, incase in the future i decide to throw some real boost at it.