Which Engine Oil is the Best
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 29
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From: Chitown
As nothere noted, MSDS info is for safety, nothing else.
The flashpoints quoted above are somewhat higher than what's typically reported in actual analytical sheets, but flashpoint isn't a big concern here with better synthetics. Also, better non GF-4 street oils almost invariably contain 1100-1300ppm ZDDP, and that includes M1 15w-50, Rotella 5w-40, AMSOIL, and so forth. One can agonize for days over details, but at the end of the day, better synthetic oils have far more in common than otherwise.
I agree that a 20w-XX is unsuitable for a cold climate, and is even on the heavy side for warm climates. A 0w or 5w is a better option, and one quality that makes synthetic oils superior to conventional is the cold pour point, which factors into long term wear.
I also agree that some assume that 'racing' anything = better, but that is a faulty assumption. Where oil is concerned, it may be worse for long term use.
The flashpoints quoted above are somewhat higher than what's typically reported in actual analytical sheets, but flashpoint isn't a big concern here with better synthetics. Also, better non GF-4 street oils almost invariably contain 1100-1300ppm ZDDP, and that includes M1 15w-50, Rotella 5w-40, AMSOIL, and so forth. One can agonize for days over details, but at the end of the day, better synthetic oils have far more in common than otherwise.
I agree that a 20w-XX is unsuitable for a cold climate, and is even on the heavy side for warm climates. A 0w or 5w is a better option, and one quality that makes synthetic oils superior to conventional is the cold pour point, which factors into long term wear.
I also agree that some assume that 'racing' anything = better, but that is a faulty assumption. Where oil is concerned, it may be worse for long term use.
Last edited by BoostedAWD25; Dec 31, 2010 at 01:00 PM.
Most can't explain what the first number really means, so they're not as likely to make good decisions on their own. A large percentage of engine wear occurs at startup, so it's advantageous to use an oil that flows easily in cold winter weather. Many European OEMs specify 0w-XX for this reason.
Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 371
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From: Australia
What some organisations do with high performance engines in cold climates is use block or sump heaters . You see this in airport fire service vehicles where they have to start quickly and be capable of being driven flat knacker straight away .
Something you see in some OE turbo engines these days is oil to water cooling systems where the heat exchanger can transfer heat from warm coolant to cold oil or hot all to slightly cooler coolant . Generally they have a sandwich arrangement at the oil filter housing .
What can also be done is disabling the engine management system or at least the injectors so you can crank the engine inc oil pump and get some oil moving before the engine fires and starts .
Most people have the most concern for the main and big end bearings and it shouldn't take too much cranking to get some oil headed in that direction .
An idling engine often has it lowest cylinder filling and therefore effective compression
How cold and how far do you need to go with these things ?
A .
Something you see in some OE turbo engines these days is oil to water cooling systems where the heat exchanger can transfer heat from warm coolant to cold oil or hot all to slightly cooler coolant . Generally they have a sandwich arrangement at the oil filter housing .
What can also be done is disabling the engine management system or at least the injectors so you can crank the engine inc oil pump and get some oil moving before the engine fires and starts .
Most people have the most concern for the main and big end bearings and it shouldn't take too much cranking to get some oil headed in that direction .
An idling engine often has it lowest cylinder filling and therefore effective compression
How cold and how far do you need to go with these things ?
A .
Newbie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 96
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From: parts unknown
im in the middle of a build, installing a fp red along with other goodies..and i'll be running 100% meth. which oil would be best for my set up? i think i saw that the valvoline vr1 was suited for evo's running meth..
A long time ago several of the NABR guys agree'd 15-50 valvoline synthetic was the good stuff. When those guys actually agree on something, I tend to listen 
.On DSM's without balance shafts you gotta go heavy to keep the oil pump alive...I killed an oil pump bearing after running 10-30 over a winter.
On the evo, I just throw in some 5-30 of what ever synthetic looks good at the time. Its not heavily modded so I dont fret too much over it.
.On DSM's without balance shafts you gotta go heavy to keep the oil pump alive...I killed an oil pump bearing after running 10-30 over a winter. On the evo, I just throw in some 5-30 of what ever synthetic looks good at the time. Its not heavily modded so I dont fret too much over it.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 29
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From: Chitown
A long time ago several of the NABR guys agree'd 15-50 valvoline synthetic was the good stuff. When those guys actually agree on something, I tend to listen .On DSM's without balance shafts you gotta go heavy to keep the oil pump alive...I killed an oil pump bearing after running 10-30 over a winter.
On the evo, I just throw in some 5-30 of what ever synthetic looks good at the time. Its not heavily modded so I dont fret too much over it.
.On DSM's without balance shafts you gotta go heavy to keep the oil pump alive...I killed an oil pump bearing after running 10-30 over a winter. On the evo, I just throw in some 5-30 of what ever synthetic looks good at the time. Its not heavily modded so I dont fret too much over it.
A few of the companies will actually take the balance shaft and turn the weight off it (on a lathe) to balance it and just run that to help support the bearing in the oil pump. Then you dont have to worry about it and can run 5-30.
I dont know if this info is on the "masses" boards. I know its all on NABR in the archives though.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 29
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From: Chitown
The balance shaft supports the bearing at the oil pump and with a stub shaft it can start walking around and take it out. It was either AMS or Magnus that figured it out, but they all agree'd to run heavy oil in built motors without balance shafts.
A few of the companies will actually take the balance shaft and turn the weight off it (on a lathe) to balance it and just run that to help support the bearing in the oil pump. Then you dont have to worry about it and can run 5-30.
I dont know if this info is on the "masses" boards. I know its all on NABR in the archives though.
A few of the companies will actually take the balance shaft and turn the weight off it (on a lathe) to balance it and just run that to help support the bearing in the oil pump. Then you dont have to worry about it and can run 5-30.
I dont know if this info is on the "masses" boards. I know its all on NABR in the archives though.
Im not an expert by any means, just watched over the years the big name guys all start suggesting to run heavier oils as soon as the balance shafts came out. Its not ideal for winter, but they probably arent daily driving their cars either.
Personally, I had an oil pump bearing get too much wear after using lighter oils after a winter. Then I found the info I mentioned above and since I only ever raced the car it wasnt an issue for me. For a daily street car, I just strongly recommend turning down a balance shaft so its not counter balanced to support the pump shaft or just keeping balance shafts.
Personally, I had an oil pump bearing get too much wear after using lighter oils after a winter. Then I found the info I mentioned above and since I only ever raced the car it wasnt an issue for me. For a daily street car, I just strongly recommend turning down a balance shaft so its not counter balanced to support the pump shaft or just keeping balance shafts.
Evolved Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,387
Likes: 3
From: riverside, ca
well let me add my 0.02 in calis weather in riverside its currently been in the 50-80 weather dependin on day, currently am running the castrol syntec 10w30, prior to that i ran the royal purple 20w50, i noticed until the vehicle got up to temp, my lifters were talkin to me literallyhaha , then once the temp got up it subsided, but i have a built engine with no balanceshafts in...so wouldnt it make more sense to run a 15w40 or 20w50 in hotter summer temps, and keep a 10w30 or 5w30 dependin on ambient temps etc....so that way your engine dont have to work as hard to run... in the colder weather, like lettin molasses and water drip down somethin, you know...isnt that what happens with some peoples engines when its cold, since oil temps arent up thicker oil moves like molasses, which can cause dry start if im not mistaken right??