Head studs
#1
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 557
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Head studs
In the process of installing my head studs... I noticed that the head stud on the intake side protrudes through the ARP provided nut and washer more than the exhaust side. Just eyeing it, it's about 1/4" on the exhaust and almost 1/2" on the intake. Is that normal? It is torqued down to 85 ft/lbs. Just not sure.
#4
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 557
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So after hand tightening the stud, I put the washer on and then the open ended nut. When I start to torque the nut, the stud goes in further. BUT when it reaches 85 ft lbs the stud goes through the open ended nut more than the other side. Attached is my quick photoshop drawing.
The top piece is the stud, the bottom piece is the nut. I don't know if the 9 is different but should I take that stud out, retighten it by hand, then try to re-torque it?
The top piece is the stud, the bottom piece is the nut. I don't know if the 9 is different but should I take that stud out, retighten it by hand, then try to re-torque it?
#6
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 557
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did that. I got a bunch of equipment cotton swabs on 6 inch sticks. Put em in there until there was little to no oil left on it. I will just take it out, try to clean it again, put it back in.
#7
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 557
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here are pics of the difference that I am talking about. I took the stud out, cleaned the threads on the stud and in the head/block. My swab came out light gray with little to no oil on it.
I hand tightened the stud, put the nut on and torqued it down to 85 ft/lbs. This is the ONLY one that is doing it. I can't force it to go in any further. Should I try using the wrench to put the stud in before I put the nut on?
First pic is the stud in the middle on the intake side (3rd). Second pic is the one to the right of the middle (4th). Third pic is a comparison of both. Not the best but it's hard to capture it.
I hand tightened the stud, put the nut on and torqued it down to 85 ft/lbs. This is the ONLY one that is doing it. I can't force it to go in any further. Should I try using the wrench to put the stud in before I put the nut on?
First pic is the stud in the middle on the intake side (3rd). Second pic is the one to the right of the middle (4th). Third pic is a comparison of both. Not the best but it's hard to capture it.
Trending Topics
#10
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 557
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I actually got it to go in further, like the rest after I pulled it out and cleaned the threads again. There was some dirt and oil still in the hole.
I torqued them down to 55, loosened, then 65, loosened, all the way to 85. I was told to do it this way. Seems to be holding up well... I really can't tell yet. Only has like 300 miles and a few dyno pulls.
I torqued them down to 55, loosened, then 65, loosened, all the way to 85. I was told to do it this way. Seems to be holding up well... I really can't tell yet. Only has like 300 miles and a few dyno pulls.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
maperformance
Vendor Announcements
19
May 31, 2010 10:17 AM