Spark Plug Recommendations?
Use the NGK Iridium IX plugs, like i stated earlier. They are the cheapest and best performing plugs you can buy. You are throwing your money away on any copper plug.
Oh yeah, did i mention that NGK has a 2 year replacement on these Iridium IX plugs? I have not payed for a set of plugs on over 4 years.......I change my plugs ever 6 months.....you do the math.
No plug comes pre-gapped homie. This is a common misnomer.
Use the NGK Iridium IX plugs, like i stated earlier. They are the cheapest and best performing plugs you can buy. You are throwing your money away on any copper plug.
Oh yeah, did i mention that NGK has a 2 year replacement on these Iridium IX plugs? I have not payed for a set of plugs on over 4 years.......I change my plugs ever 6 months.....you do the math.
Use the NGK Iridium IX plugs, like i stated earlier. They are the cheapest and best performing plugs you can buy. You are throwing your money away on any copper plug.
Oh yeah, did i mention that NGK has a 2 year replacement on these Iridium IX plugs? I have not payed for a set of plugs on over 4 years.......I change my plugs ever 6 months.....you do the math.
Where are you buying them?
No plug comes pre-gapped homie. This is a common misnomer.
Use the NGK Iridium IX plugs, like i stated earlier. They are the cheapest and best performing plugs you can buy. You are throwing your money away on any copper plug.
Oh yeah, did i mention that NGK has a 2 year replacement on these Iridium IX plugs? I have not payed for a set of plugs on over 4 years.......I change my plugs ever 6 months.....you do the math.
Use the NGK Iridium IX plugs, like i stated earlier. They are the cheapest and best performing plugs you can buy. You are throwing your money away on any copper plug.
Oh yeah, did i mention that NGK has a 2 year replacement on these Iridium IX plugs? I have not payed for a set of plugs on over 4 years.......I change my plugs ever 6 months.....you do the math.
I'm not looking for Iridium....i use Iridium....for a reason.
No thanks - not changing what works. Nor will I use Iridium ever again. I guess we will just disagree. Anyways back on to topic.
I use the BR8ES non protruding tip now I used the same "7s" when I was on the stock turbo. Non protruding always worked out better in my car.
I also will never use iridiums again. Hated em
I also will never use iridiums again. Hated em
BTW, this is the TOPIC.
May i ask why you have a problem with Iridium plugs??
Why did you hate your Iridium plugs??? I think it's funny that so many people, say they hate something, just because....but yet, most of these same people are not aware of what needs to be done to properly run any plug.
Here is some usefull info i posted awhile back. Actually, i have talked about this many, many times on this board in the years past. Search it.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/3985610-post73.html
Originally Posted by iTune
Like stated above, plugs that are too hot a heat range will not allow for the heat to escape the combustion chamber. The plug has two main purposes. Ignite the air/fuel mixture and transfer heat from the combustion chamber. It's important to remember spark plugs do not create heat, they only remove heat. The spark plug works as a heat exchanger by pulling unwanted thermal energy away from the combustion chamber, and transferring the heat to the engine's cooling
system. The heat range is defined as a plug's ability to dissipate heat. Make sure the plugs are properly torqued as a improper seat will not allow heat to transfer to the head. The temperature of the spark plug's firing end must be kept low enough to prevent pre-ignition, but high enough to prevent fouling. This is called "Thermal Performance", and is determined by the heat range selected. The insulator nose length, gas volume around the insulator nose, the materials/construction of the center electrode and porcelain insulator all determine the plugs heat range. Improper gap can play a huge roll in knock as well. You want to run the most gap possible to better expose the spark to the ignition, but if you run too large of a gap, you will have misfires. If you run too small of a gap, you will increase firing end temp and thus combustion temps/pressures. you must reduce the gap about .004" for every 50 hp you add as a general rule of thumb.
Like stated above, plugs that are too hot a heat range will not allow for the heat to escape the combustion chamber. The plug has two main purposes. Ignite the air/fuel mixture and transfer heat from the combustion chamber. It's important to remember spark plugs do not create heat, they only remove heat. The spark plug works as a heat exchanger by pulling unwanted thermal energy away from the combustion chamber, and transferring the heat to the engine's cooling
system. The heat range is defined as a plug's ability to dissipate heat. Make sure the plugs are properly torqued as a improper seat will not allow heat to transfer to the head. The temperature of the spark plug's firing end must be kept low enough to prevent pre-ignition, but high enough to prevent fouling. This is called "Thermal Performance", and is determined by the heat range selected. The insulator nose length, gas volume around the insulator nose, the materials/construction of the center electrode and porcelain insulator all determine the plugs heat range. Improper gap can play a huge roll in knock as well. You want to run the most gap possible to better expose the spark to the ignition, but if you run too large of a gap, you will have misfires. If you run too small of a gap, you will increase firing end temp and thus combustion temps/pressures. you must reduce the gap about .004" for every 50 hp you add as a general rule of thumb.
Some more....
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/4007807-post29.html
Orignally posted by iTune I would actually recommend started with a larger gap. try .032 first, then gap down from there if you run into mis-fires.
You want to run the largest gap possible to properly expose the spark to the mixture. If you run too big, the spark with actually be blown out, causing misfires, if you run too small, the firing end temp increases, thus does the cylinder temps/pressures. Rule of thumb is to start larger and work your way down until you no longer have misfires. Trust me on this. All engines are different, the gap requirements will change from engine to engine, setup to setup.
Heat range will effect a lot as well, the colder the heat range, the more fouling becomes a problem, make sure your set-up warrants a colder heat range plug. Look at my original post on page one for refference.
You want to run the largest gap possible to properly expose the spark to the mixture. If you run too big, the spark with actually be blown out, causing misfires, if you run too small, the firing end temp increases, thus does the cylinder temps/pressures. Rule of thumb is to start larger and work your way down until you no longer have misfires. Trust me on this. All engines are different, the gap requirements will change from engine to engine, setup to setup.
Heat range will effect a lot as well, the colder the heat range, the more fouling becomes a problem, make sure your set-up warrants a colder heat range plug. Look at my original post on page one for refference.