Was recently getting tuned and after a couple hard pulls the car started knocking really loud. I pulled ther car over right away to avoid costly damage. I know, a lot of you are thinking because I though the same for a while. That being said, I uploaded the maps to a trusted tuner and he said everything looked fine. The car had been ticking for a while, I assumed it was lifters but I was obviously wrong. I guess putting that kind of load and stress on the motor from the tune resulted in the bearing finally goin out. I pulled the oil pan first last night and started feeling rods. The second cylinder was really sloppy so thats where the knock is from. So, it was time for the motor to come out. I assume I should do a ring job while its out. I did not do the stroker kit myself so I dont know much about it. the motor is out now, I just need some advice.

What all is changed on the stroker?

Does a spun bearing normally ruin the cranks on these cars?

Should I replace the oil pump in case it got any metal shavings in it?

What kind of price am I lookin at for all of this?

In case it was not stated before, its an AMS stroker kit.

Thanks ahead of time.

 

regardless if the crank is ruined or not, the stroker kits uses a new crankshaft. You can just clean out the oil pump real good, or get a new one. A stroker kit is going to run you roughly $2400-$3000 for just the parts, include another $1500 for labor, and then another $500 for a tune.

 

It is already stroked

 

the difference in the stroker is mainly the crank, which is now pretty much ruined. And to answer your question about the oil pump, yes you need to change it, along with the oil cooler, and id at least go through the turbo. Basically the bearing material had to go somewhere and if you don't get all of it out of there it can very easily ruin a new motor.

 

contact jackson auto machine. they are very helpful.

they did my stroker when i spun a bearing

 

Depends on the configuration. Ordinarily, a stroker uses a crank with a longer stroke (either a factory 100mm from another Mitsu product, or an aftermarket, like an Eagle, which can come in various strokes from stock to 100mm).

Because the crank stroke is longer than stock, the pistons must be changed, because the pin height is different to account for the difference in stroke of the crank. Many stroker kits use the stock length rods, a few use longer rods to give close to the stock rod/stroke ratio. If that is done, the pistons are made even shorter in height, or you have to use a 2.4 block with a higher deck to crank height.

Depends. You may not have had a spun bearing yet, it sounds like. Take off the rod cap, take pictures of the bearing, and look at and feel the crank journal surface to see and feel if there is scarring or roughness. Look carefully at the bearing to see how much damage there is. That will give you some very general idea of the amount of bearing material that has migrated somewhere else in your engine. If you don't feel any scarring or roughness, measure the crank journal with a micrometer diameter and roundness. If you don't have the tools, take the motor to a machine shop, and they'll do it for you for a very small price, if the cap is off and the journal is already exposed.

If the crank is damaged, you will need (at a minimum) to repair the crank and that cylinder's connnecting rod (or replace them, depending on damage and condition). New bearings all around, maybe honing the cylinders (depending on damage), or if there's significant cylinder wall damage, you'll have to rebore larger and new pistons. Getting pricey fast at that point.

If your bearings are significantly damaged, all that material went somewhere else in your motor. Anywhere that oil goes, it took those particles with it. If that happens, the entire engine has to be disassembled. Every oil passage has to be cleaned carefully. The oil cooler is usually replaced completely. Lines have to be flushed until you are certain that everything is clean. The head should be disassembled. The turbo is also a likely location for crap to have gone, as it is oiled by the same system. The oil pump itself is easier to clean that many of the other parts mentioned....

Depends on who does it, and how much damage there is, but it's not free Hope it's on the lower end

Given that you bought it from AMS, I would give them a shout. Even if it's not something that they should cover, most shops will give you a better deal on a repair of a product you bought from them than you'll get somewhere else, and they know what was done to it to start with, so that is a plus.

Good luck!