1G Crushed BOV
1G Crushed BOV
Just yesterday I jumped on the bandwagon...My car was surging at WOT all day. I think it is due to the colder climate, and if that's the case I'm not interested in the Forge DV anymore. It was working ever so perfectly for about 4 months until the weather hit. I don't want it if it can't stand it's ground in the winter.
So, I'm wondering who all has the 1G Crushed BOV? Anyone experience any surge with these? Is there any substantial RPM drop, because when I searched there was one case of it. How is the fitment, does it need any adapter? I know Buschur offers it, but do I need the BR adapter or just the BOV? Is it recirculating? Thanks for answering all the questions!
So, I'm wondering who all has the 1G Crushed BOV? Anyone experience any surge with these? Is there any substantial RPM drop, because when I searched there was one case of it. How is the fitment, does it need any adapter? I know Buschur offers it, but do I need the BR adapter or just the BOV? Is it recirculating? Thanks for answering all the questions!
Dude check out dsm.org for your answers and maybee a couple of local dsm chapters...
I know a couple people that have 1g BOV on their DSMs both crushed and uncrushed and they love them.....
So if you can pick one up pretty cheap its a good investment.
Crushed they are supposed to hold up to 30psi.
I know a couple people that have 1g BOV on their DSMs both crushed and uncrushed and they love them.....
So if you can pick one up pretty cheap its a good investment.
Crushed they are supposed to hold up to 30psi.
I put one on last week. I'm taking it off today. I don't know yet if this particular valve has a problem, or if it's the 1g valve in general. Problems I am having include stalling, an annoying 'whistle' after the valve is supposed to be closed, and it's not holding boost as well as the stock valve.
You need to weld a pipe to a 1g flange, and the outlet pipe OD needs to be enlarged as well. I'm going to try and test a known working valve and see if I have the same issues. If so, I'm going to get an H34.
You need to weld a pipe to a 1g flange, and the outlet pipe OD needs to be enlarged as well. I'm going to try and test a known working valve and see if I have the same issues. If so, I'm going to get an H34.
basically the BOV is put in a vice and the top where the spring is located is crushed in very slightly. this makes the spring have less room and it takes more force to compress the spring. so it can handle more boost that way.
the 1g BOV's were'nt made of plastic.... they have a metal top that you can crush-in a little; this makes them hold a higher amount of boost.....
check out dsm.org there is an article that explains it.
check out dsm.org there is an article that explains it.
Trending Topics
I will be taking delivery of a 1st gen bov with the dejon tool leak stop kit installed tomorrow or monday. I originally had a crushed top that was off of a galant vr-4 and it did exactly what you are describing, but it turned out that it came out of a galant that had it's engine bay catch fire so all of the internal seals were shot, sounds like you just have a defective one. When I get my new one with the dejon tool kit installed I will tell everyone how it went. Fyi, SurgeGT, jdmawd, and quickersol all have some 1st gen bov's available at awesome prices at DSMtuners.com.
1g Bov with Dejon Tool leak stop kit
Ok guys and gals, this works like gem, I'm really excited about it. Talked to Dave over at Dejon Tool tonight and told him he should get his name out on the evom forums. Super easy to install, the only thing you need to do is tap a 10/32 hole into your upper I/C piping. You need a 10/32 corse thread tap and two 10/32 fittings, I believe the fittings come with his kit and you can pick up the tap from lowes for like $4. This is really cool, good sound and haretrigger reponsiveness, hell I now can't get my car to stall even when I try, that's pretty cool. I'm pretty sure that you need an uncrushed 1g bov to do this though.
Last edited by mitsuorder; Nov 15, 2003 at 05:26 PM.






