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Old May 13, 2009 | 11:35 PM
  #16  
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Good luck with the build!
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Old May 14, 2009 | 01:04 AM
  #17  
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what displacement motor are you building? i'm guessing 2.3
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Old May 14, 2009 | 03:11 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by dagreat1
what displacement motor are you building? i'm guessing 2.3
nope, living it at 2.0 I really don't see the need, if the cilynder walls were in bad shape I would have. Here are some more pics after the block got cleaned and some of the cylinders






Last edited by bevolucion; May 14, 2009 at 03:18 PM.
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Old May 14, 2009 | 05:39 PM
  #19  
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So you just remove old crank, pistons, and rods. Clean the motor and put it back together? Anyway, nice build man. Keep us posted.
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Old May 14, 2009 | 06:11 PM
  #20  
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The honing crosshatching angles are not correct in the bores. You may face accelerated piston ring wear.

The amount of honing done appears to be excessive.

You may have some metal in the oil squirter orifices from leaving them in.
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Old May 14, 2009 | 10:17 PM
  #21  
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Looks good
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Old May 16, 2009 | 07:05 AM
  #22  
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i just went to a local machine shop to get pricing to balance bottom end($250-$350), just wating for the pistons they actually should be here today we'll see. just ordered a new oil pump.
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Old May 16, 2009 | 07:26 AM
  #23  
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keep us posted
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Old May 16, 2009 | 07:27 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by TTP Engineering


The honing crosshatching angles are not correct in the bores. You may face accelerated piston ring wear.

The amount of honing done appears to be excessive.

You may have some metal in the oil squirter orifices from leaving them in.

I agree on the angles being off, but are you seriously gonna sit there and say the amount done looks excessive, because if so you have some accurate vision, being able to see how many thousandths are gone there This is just a weak attempt to stop people from trying this themselves. A 4g63 is not that complicated of a motor, if you have a spec sheet, a micrometer, dial bore gauge, and use a feeler gauge you can rebuild this engine.

To the OP I would recommend having the block washed out, metal debris and fresh engines are never good. Also if you are not checking the clearences have them checked. And Best of luck to you man !!
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Old May 16, 2009 | 07:34 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 20gmr
I agree on the angles being off, but are you seriously gonna sit there and say the amount done looks excessive, because if so you have some accurate vision, being able to see how many thousandths are gone there This is just a weak attempt to stop people from trying this themselves. A 4g63 is not that complicated of a motor, if you have a spec sheet, a micrometer, dial bore gauge, and use a feeler gauge you can rebuild this engine.

To the OP I would recommend having the block washed out, metal debris and fresh engines are never good. Also if you are not checking the clearences have them checked. And Best of luck to you man !!
really apreciated, I honed it very lightly with very fine grid just enough to take the glaze , I will have the whole bottom end brought to a local machine shop for reassurance after is assembled. and agreed this is not rocket science and actually I consider it very straight forward and if anything goes wrong I'll post that too. I alredy washed the whole thing and I will again before it gets assembled.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 10:29 AM
  #26  
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looks good so far. keep us updated
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Old May 30, 2009 | 11:50 AM
  #27  
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well stil waiting on parts to get here, but good news to me, my FPHTA3582 is on its way here, in the mean time I bought a welder and I,ve been practicing. And I know the welds look like $#it but oh well I hope I get better.





as you can see I used the flange from the stock down pipe and weld it to a 3" pipe it freaking fit perfectly in the current down pipe. This is for my o2 housing. I figured why no try it obviously, I'll need to get the other piece bent and cut this one on an angle and a lot trial and error. But we'll see, whats the worse that can happen? not work. I will need to grind the stock flange inside pipe diameter to open it up,as you can see right now it will give prob 2.5 inches its really thick because its right on the weld. I'll post some more pics when i get the turbo and the bottom end.

Last edited by bevolucion; May 30, 2009 at 11:52 AM.
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Old May 30, 2009 | 12:03 PM
  #28  
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Great job on the DIY and keep us posted man. Just keep that arch going lol
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Old May 30, 2009 | 12:11 PM
  #29  
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looks like fun!
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Old Jun 1, 2009 | 05:21 PM
  #30  
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little update, today I purchase the bushwacker upgrade for my tranny. For those who don't know is made by buschur racing. I can't wait. Have read a lot of good things about it.
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