or it could be his slave cylinder.. i say bring it too mitsubishi... tell them your problem... tell them you have a stock clutch and what not... they will test drive it for you.... the diagnostics should be under warrenty.. but if not its 50 bucks. and they will tell you what the problem is... if they say they can fix it but its not covered under warrenty then just leave with your car... at least now you know the problem and they cant void your warrenty until they take pictures of ur car and send it to the warrenty department of mitsu. thats where they authorize if your able to get your car fixed or not. so yeah, try bleeding your clutch lines... if that doesnt work then it could be a warped flywheel/clutch.

 

24,000 miles on the car. 23,800 miles where basically on stock power levels + exhaust untill 200 miles ago I got a tune with the current mods in my sig.

Its my dail driver that I granny around 90% of the time. I've been to the track only once and do some spirited driving only a hand full of times in a month. Never powershifted.

I have adjusted the clutch pedal in the past to shorten the engagement point. And when I went to the track I found that at high rpms I would get lock out and readjusted it back. A few days ago I adjusted it again to give even more slack. It helped in the lower gears but 5th is still a bit grindy especially when I run hard in 2nd and then shift to 5th right away to cruise.

Well I havent been too nice on this clutch in the past. I practiced launching for the first time on it in my first AWD car and in the process I have done some major clutch burning. A while back when I had 12,000 miles while practicing I slipped it way too much and the clutch would grip very strangely. It would feel like I'm getting wheel hop just doing a normal take off. Then after putting on some miles it slowly smoothened out. Maybe I glazed and warped the flywheel/clutch.


I'm not sure if I'm slipping or not. I know it slips during launching becuase the rpms would not rise much as the speedo catches up in 1st gear. But just a highway run when there is a lot of load, its hard to tell if its slipping. If I am slipping it would be only a little and not a huge noticeable display. However the clutch does feel a little strange after some pulls (no launching). It would feel a little like I heated it up tad. Maybe it is slipping a tad and the friction is making it feel that way.


I have currently ordered the RRE flywheel and CCI stage 4 clutch. I'm also going to get a SS clutch line and some Redline MT90 oil for the trans as recommended by Shep . As for the difs and transfercase I replaced the oil in those at 15,000 miles with OEM stuff and according to the magnetic plug and oild they were very healthy. I will replace them again with the OEM when I do the clutch in the next couple weeks since I'm getting close to 30k miles.

 

Just out of curiousity why would the lines need to be bleed if I never touched them? Also I just double checked and the fluid level is between the Max and Min line.

Also if its the mastercylinder, then wouldnt it affect things at all rpm ranges? Because its currently happning only in high rpm ranges.

 

ok, for future reference, try not to jump from 2nd to 5th :-/ if your not matching revs right that could seriously mess up the synchros.. its more for if your down shifting than anything so your probably fine. but just to get in the habit you shouldnt do it at all... think of it like an smg, just follow the sequence. lol but its probably not a problem.

your warrenty could be voided because you got the tune. but depending on where you live and how cool your dealership is.. you might have no problems

i feel like when you mentioned earlier about practicing and trying to launch and doing those high rev shifts, that might have thrown everything slightly out of wack.

you said that you think your clutch slips when launching because the mph rises when the rpms are staying the same? if your clutch is slipping it should do the exact opposite. thats all wheel drive my friend... you get thrown into your seat while the rpms just hover around..

the setup your getting sounds good. only thing is. if your gears are notchy and grinding now that means it will only get worse. you might have to take apart the trans and put in new synchros.. heres the thing with evos... they are real good cars... but if something breaks or starts going bad.. it will deteriorate quickely.. personally i wouldnt put the clutch and flywheel on until i got my trans inspected. you dont wanna pay for all that installation just to find out you need to take it off again for repairs. try to go to mitsubishi before u get those parts. because they definitely will void you once u put a stronger clutch on..

i know... its a pain in the ***.. but if u dont do it proper its gonna cost you big bucks in the end...

 

i mean thats like the last thing i would do.... its kinda hard to do a diagnostic without driving it... so from what your telling me i personally dont think it has to do with either of those things. and you wouldnt have to touch the lines in order for them to be bled... all evos are different... some have faulty parts that just break sooner than others... its all different variables, dont worry about clutch lines and all that.. your fine.. im just giving you options.

 

Thanks for the advise. Well if it makes any difference my foot is completely off the clutch pedal during that rpm hover as the mph catches up.

Also last night I was testing again the 5th gear issue does not just happen when doing the 2nd to 5th shift. It also occurs when doing a pull in 4th then shifting to 5th at high rpms.

The only reason I'm mostly convinced its all due to my flywheel and clutch is because adjusting the pedal fixed the lockout/grind issue with all the other gears and softened the 5th. The rest of the gears are just a little heavy to put in but no grind. Previously 5th wouldnt go in just grind until I let the rpms settle down and the other rpms would grind in or sometimes not let me in. On top of it all is how the clutch engages. It's softer now but what it would do is grip slip really hard and the front end would feel like its hopping! And thats just on a normal barely 900-1.2k rpms start from a stand still. And its not because of too low of a throttle bog or not enough slippage.


My friend is a Ford/Mazda/Subaru mechanic. He has also done some DSM clutches in the past and will be helping change the clutch out on the Evo to save some bucks. I just dont see what the dealership mechanic can check for and diagnos that we cant unless they take it apart.

Dealerships in my area are not mod friendly at least the ones I know of.

Thanks for the help,

 

Ok cool. But I'm still replacing the cutch line and removing the restrictor pill when I do the clutch.

 

Wow lots of good information here.. I'll buy a new slave cylinder with that extended rod.. I never knew there was so many issues with a clutch swap!