So, since I've owned this car (bought it used), I've had problems getting it through the gears. Nothing too bad, except for reverse, but definitely notchy and the occasional grind from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd. You definitely have to "do it right" or it will grind.

I saw the post about adjusting the clutch pedal, but it looks like the screw is all the way out already, so I can't move it any further to help with the clutch engagement.

I have noticed though, that the clutch is still engaged even when I push it in. If I'm on a slight hill, I don't roll. Big hill, I still will.. but not on minor hills, so there's another sign.

What the heck could it be and where should I start? I totally thought the clutch pedal adjustment would do the trick.. but now I'm stuck.

The clutch is supposedly a exedy twin disk (that's what the seller told me.. haven't seen it yet)..

 

My first guess would be your clutch and flywheel are about done, does your car lag on take off ever? Like high rpms but no power?

 

Nooo.. not particularly.. it's still very strong when I'm not doing anything pertaining to the clutch.. just weird shifts.

 

Adjusting the rod all the way out doesn't mean that isn't the problem.
I'd adjust it back a few threads(2-3) and check it out.

also, check this out.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...r+light+weight

 

I figured if it was too far out, it wouldn't have a problem still being engaged when on a hill though...

the link didn't work

 

whoops sorry.

As far as the adjustment rod goes, look up "clutch adjustment" in the search here and there's a really detailed explanation of it. I'm about to leave for work or i'd find it for you.

and here's the link, fixed.
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...0&cat=0&page=1

 

your slave or master cylinder could be going and not fully disengaging the clutch. I would check those parts for any fluid, and also double check your fluid level in the resevoir.

 

^^this too. Slave cylinder could be failing.

 

Need a new engine mount? j/k Thanks for the help!

How could I tell if the slave or master is failing? Just check the fluids?

 

No you don't NEED a new engine mount but the stock mount on some evos are known to move wayyy too much and can cause lockout. this mount is extrememly rigid and prevents the mount-caused lockout.


Get someone in the car and push the clutch. watch the slave and make sure it is pushing the release rod all the way forward.

I guess you should probably make sure you have a full brake/clutch fluid reservoir too

 

well what happens with exedy clutches is that they tend to stick to the flywheel.. they dont disengage properly. which is probably why ur grinding. because the clutch sticks it messes with the synchros on your transmission. let me guess... u kinda haave to be at the right rpm and have a nice smooth shift in order for it to not grind... the only wierd thing is that ur grinding from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. usually its starts in 5th and then goes down the gears. the good news is that theres hope and you dont have to change your clutch. heres a link to a cheap fix.. its 40 dollars... http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...cat=113&page=1 the clutch release rod extends the stock rod and allows the clutch to fully disengage. hope this helps.

 

I'm having similar problem as you described but on stock clutch. I did adjust the clutch pedal and it helped a little. But 5th grinds at high rpms and the rest of the gears are a bit too crunchy/hard but dont grind any more.

I'm thinking my flywheel is warped thats why its giving me this issue. Also normal take off's are not smooth. It feels very similar to having having warped rotors and braking (pulsation feeling or wheel hop)

Is that issue you mentioned recommended only for exedy clutches or can it be a part to change over with other clutches just for the piece of mind?

 

how many miles are on the car and do u drag it alot? or even launch it? because if it feels like a warped rotor when u start off on normal driving then your flywheel very well may be warped. and that in turn could cause ur clutch to not disengage properly which could throw out your synchros. how does the clutch feel? do u notice any slippage under high rpms? and yes you could use the clutch extension rod on any clutch.... though you really shouldnt have a disengaging problem on a stock clutch... your car should still be under warrenty if u have no major mods. though mitsubishi dealerships are now getting smarter and its harder to keep your car warrentied.

 

Just bleed the clutch circut first and go from there. I'm still on a stock clutch, 30,000 miles, with 30 drag strip launches, zero issues.

 

yeah same here... except now im on an act street set up. which im trying to change. but when i was stock i could go down the track all day and still drive around with no problems.. i have 56k on my car.