Raceghost

iTrader: (4)

Not only have I blown a manifold stud, and the gasket could be gone, but now I realize I was 3 quarts low on oil.

What is the average oil consumption on 5000 miles with full synthetic Mobil 1. Forget the manufacturer, just listing what I use. But should I have burned that much oil?

apagan01

iTrader: (299)

no sir, unless your rings are shot, valve guides ect...

unless your oil is going into your intercooler

jrlewis0550

iTrader: (4)

Seems like a bit much.

Raceghost

iTrader: (4)

Trying to understand your reply. I shouldn't be comsuming that much? Or that is average?

With the center manifold stud stripped, I was leaking exhaust, and right above it, I can see I have singed or burnded my valve cover gasket. There is signs of oil seepage on the front of the head between the valve cover and the manifold, but not enought to see 3 quarts...

I was thinking I may have burnet a valve guide, but would that explain the consumption...? No smoke in exhaust to refer to burning the oil, though my tip is blacker than black. I smell oil though when I stop at a light. But don't see any leaks besides what has been discussed.

holiday63

iTrader: (23)

any traces of oil on your compressor side?

3 quarts is ridiculous and not normal at all. if you noticed any excessive smoking then oil is getting past the rings, perhaps a leaking seal on the hotside, or getting burned off into the exhaust some other way.

if you lost 3 quarts from out the engine some other way, i would expect you to see puddling on the floor of your garage or atleast on your undertray. this leads me to believe you're burning it, or as apagan stated above it could be in your intercooler due to a bad turbo seal or something.

check you're feed and return lines on the turbo too

KenMasters

iTrader: (10)

If you were burning oil you would smell it. Oil leaking through the valve cover in the quantities missing is crazy, you would have seen it smoking through the hood vent. Let your car idle and hold your hand in the exhaust stream, look for oil on your hand. If you see some your turbo bearings might be going bad.

Raceghost

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Ken, and yes, I do smell oil, bunt don't see the usual cloud of smoke that I have seen from other cars. THis winter, I did notice a little oil in the Lower ICP prior to the intercooler, and thought nothing of it. Small puddle, maybe half a cup. I asked at that time a friend who had a turbo'd car, and he said a little is usual in the Lower ICP. So now, I am taking it to my favorit mechanic's shop to get the search under way.

Also, I noticed the right side of the motor, not the side with the pulleys, but the other side. There is a piece of hardware, not sure what it is called, that is attached to the valve cover, or sits just below. It is soaked with oil... But when car is running, i can't see any bubling, or spirts...

Remember, this is my first forced fed car. I have always been a big HP NA car driver, mostly V-8's...

KenMasters

iTrader: (10)

I think you're talking about the cam angle sensor. RTV is your best friend, redo your valve cover and cam angle seal. Here's a video pay attention to how the seal works.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/e...d00128e555.htm

Here's the cam install thread.


https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-8-mr-jdm.html

Raceghost

iTrader: (4)

Yah, Im thinking if they go ahead and pull the head, that I will drop some 272 cossi's in when they do the Valve Job. That is if I burn't the Valve seat from that exhaust stud/exhaust leak. Thanks again for your tutolidge.

KenMasters

iTrader: (10)

You don't have to pull the head for cams, it would be a good experience for you. If your competant in mechanics. It would give you a firsthand look into the workings of the cylinder head. Unless you have a bad headgasket I wouldn't break the factory seal on the head. Even if you just pull the valve cover (nothing to install) you can have a good look, and re-seal it in the process.

Raceghost

iTrader: (4)

But if they have to pull if I burnt a valve seat, or valve seal, then what. Machine work on a valve job right, or am I missing something? I will have to pay the labor to have the machine work done...why not drop the cams in then. Do you have to pull the head to change the head studs? I was thinking of ARp or Cossi's for those as well.

My problem is, I don't have time, and don't have a big enough shop to do all this myself. My mechanic buddy that I have taken every serious build to has a big shop, and allows me to work in it. Only thing is, because of where i live, he is 200 miles away.

I also researched the warranty, and it looks good. So most of this work and labor will be covored under that, if it turns out that I have blown some of the turbo shaft seal, or burnt a valve, etc.

I do like to do the work myself, and like to think I have a mechanical understanding for the most part, but shop space, clean area to work in, etc is all lacking for me right now. When I did the work this winter, i was living in a house, with a full 2 car garage, heated, etc.

Now I am in a condo, with a car port...lol. I know hardley anyone in SLC, even the guys who said they would like to hang out, members of this forum, wont' even call me, or tell me where to meet up. Reality looks like I am on my own, or take it to a trusted mechanic in another state, who will do me right, in a bind.

Will try to do some of it myself, and thanks again for your help.

barneyb

I was using a quart every 1000 miles when I had a bad valve seal. Not much smoke either - just the smell of burning oil.

BTW, valves guides don't get burnt and valves don't get burnt because of leaky exhaust.

The first thing I would do is fix the leak. Sometimes big leaks just look like little leaks. Then, if oil is still disappearing, do a compression check without and with adding a teaspoon of oil. If the oil raises the compression your rings are worn. Otherwise, it is probably valve seals.

KenMasters

iTrader: (10)

Compression test , and yes valve jobs require machining. I wish you the best of luck. If your not modified and still have warranty take it to Mits and file a claim. That is the first step. I have a hunch your oil consumption is in the turbo. Check the exhaust for spraying oil with your hand.

riceball777

iTrader: (33)

my evo burns no oil at all what so ever. my s2000 burns about half a quart ever 1000 miles but that normal for a s2000

musca999

I burn 0 oil. But that, as I found out on my 1200GS bike, may be because I change the oil at such short intervals (2k mi) it doesn't have time to show up on the dipstick. I let it go for 4k mi once on the bike and it did burn 1/2 qt or so.