blown motor please read, (its not a story)
You will want to inspect the valve stem seals. Well, I'd say just replace them, they are cheap, but without the right tools, the valve springs are a paint to get out.
Also, don't rely on your eyes to tell you your cylinder walls look good. Since you didn't do a leakdown, nor compression test, you won't be able to be sure. At that point, I'd mic the cylinder walls, re-hone, and put new rings in at a minimum.
I speak from experience. Took my apart due to fouling #3 in 2007. Walls looked good, but found a questionable stem seal. Put it back together and was still fouling. A lot of work for nothing, had to redo it. Rings had lost their seal on cylinder. I did a full rebuild, bored 0.020" with forged pistons and rods.
At this point for you, I'd do the same thing unless you are strapped for time and money and want to risk it.
Also, don't rely on your eyes to tell you your cylinder walls look good. Since you didn't do a leakdown, nor compression test, you won't be able to be sure. At that point, I'd mic the cylinder walls, re-hone, and put new rings in at a minimum.
I speak from experience. Took my apart due to fouling #3 in 2007. Walls looked good, but found a questionable stem seal. Put it back together and was still fouling. A lot of work for nothing, had to redo it. Rings had lost their seal on cylinder. I did a full rebuild, bored 0.020" with forged pistons and rods.
At this point for you, I'd do the same thing unless you are strapped for time and money and want to risk it.
Headstods def should not be taken in or out with an impact gun. As far as pulling the head is concerned I would pull off the exhaust manifold. Then unbolt the intake manifold from where it meets the head. Once its unbolted remove the head. Personally I wouldnt fully remove the IM because then you need to deal with unhooking a lot more things such as fuel and vacuum lines...
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