With the stock motor I was using amsoil signature 0w30. Amazing oil I have to say...

Now with the new motor I changed to a 20w50 (valvoline vr1) with even smaller oil change intervals...

 

Just wondering what was Mobil 1 few years ago and what is it now that made you say it is not good as it was?

 

Valvoline vr1 20w50 is what was in my motor when I spun the bearings

I would almost pay money to seee what indy car or f1 guys actually pour in their engines?

That is an angle I would like to attack and see what they really use not what they advertise which I would be willing to bet is not the same brand.

 

Well I don't think it's easy to see what the f1 guys are using and I don't think it would apply to our engines.

Where you using vr1 on a built engine? From the little I know built engines don't follow factory specs and the only person who could actually know what to use would be the engine builder himself.

I am curious to see what the big builders use on their built motors...

 

I lost one built ond one stock motor with vr-1 oil, I think what f1 would use would give an indication of where to look at least because those engines are brutally punished so I would like to see what will take that kind of abuse as a starting point.

 

You used vr1 on a stock block? i think it was an overkill... The stock motor has to tight clearances for such heavy weight oil... As i said before on the stock internals i was using the AMSOIL 0w30 with excellent results.

Now on the forged internals and the clearances that we run definitely we need a thicker oil...

Me presonally i am curious to see what oil the big NHRA teams run on their 7000 hp motors! LOL

 

Well the reason I ran vr1 was because the car was on e-85 and 33psi sand it would dilute the oil rather quickly and I read that vr-1 was supposed to be compatable with alochol so this is why I ran it this way but the built motor ended up with the same result.

 

I think you guys are just beating your gums on this one. Nobody but the car makers and engine oil producers have the resources to find out what oils are best. You see the results of these tests in the new oil specifications that arrive periodically.

You will be able to find anecdotes about how every oil on the planet either was perfect for your engine or ruined your engine. And the oil you bought for the last oil change is probably different than the oil you bought for this oil change since the producers are constantly fiddling with the formulas.

So, I'd suggest you buy what makes you feel good and hope the producer doesn't screw up and release a bad lot like Penzoil did a few years back and had to replace a bunch of engines. I was using Penzoil at the time. What a mess!

 

What he is probably referring to is the fact that Mobil 1 (like virtually every other brand of 'non-boutique' oil) advanced to the SM specification from the SL, which means they reduced ZDDP concentrations in accordance with tightening environmental regulations. To most vehicles, this will make no real difference.

The fact of the matter is that EVO engines running on Mobil 1 10w-30 that generated much more power than factory spec and ran well until the time of disassembly tend to show little wear, even at 60-70k+ mi. That being the case, it seems to indicate that much of what takes place in these discussions is in actuality, possibly reduced to seemingly minor details.

 

Amsoil FTW!! =]

 

$22 for 5 gallons of Mobil-1 at WALMART every 3000 miles. If you are changing your oil every 1000 miles then the choice is up to you as the end user. I don't really think you are going to be breaking down oil in 700-1000 miles on any reputable brand, unless you are beating the **** out of your car really really bad. I used Amsoil for quite a while but the store that carried it for cheap closed, so I went back to the Mobil-1...

 

Well.. Not F1, But I knew someone who was an engine builder For Yates Nascar team. Havoline, I believe sponsored them iirc. They said they would have their blend custom made and just pour it into Havoline containers... For sponshorship reasons. THe stuff they used is far from any Havoline you could buy at the store. They said it had no additives for one, along with other stuff cant remember now.
About the post above, I know Mobile 1 has changed their formula, at least for Mercedes Benz, recently. Whatever they decided to do it seems to be crap as it has wiped out a few oil level sensors. Seeing quite a few cars come in because of that has made me not want to use Mobile 1--- and I get that for free. I would rather pay for amsoil or redline and keep my car happy.
This isnt saying that all mobile 1 will give you issues, but they have a different formula for mercedes, and thats the one that hasnt quite been working to well... But ... whats to say their other stuff is much better now,idk?

 

This is probably some of the best data, real world data that is. My thought on that is can we use a thinner oil and still maintain this type of reliability. I often wonder why so many engine builders, these days, make the tolerences so much larger than stock. When oils, and products in general keep getting better. One would think an adjustment would be made to use the technology to our advantage. i.e run tighter tolerences and run lighter oils, ect. I'm thinking that the engine could run much cooler this way too. What do you think Ted, or and one for that matter... How can we make progress ?

 

SWOLN

i always love the topic about tolerances:

my personal take on this topic is that bigger tolerances are a little more forgiving and easier to accomplish at the measurement stage, plus i think they are wanting to be careful with metal expansions,

i think to accompish a realy tight toleranced engine like the factory pure engineering would have to go into the process, like for example , engineering modeling analysis, and then feeding the analysis to a designer to transpose that to a cad like Pro-E,,, now you are talking you would tripple the price of that build.

however with todays synthetics there is no reason to use thicker oils all you are doing is herting the engine, todays oils keep their film capabilities very well

i can rattle about this for to long

 

I just started using Red Line racing oil 40WT. It has worked well for me so far. Prior to that I was using Motul. And like the OP I change my oil after 700-1000 miles.

Hoping someone on here may have used Red Line racing oil.