did either of you guys notice a drivability loss, only when taking off from a stop after removing the lines to the solenoid / maf sensor item? I am refering to just a subtle loss from the stock set-up in low throttle / low rev street driving.

also, is the mbc the only mod?

I experienced this sensation, so I removed the mbc.

 

Yeah, I understand that it is out of the system. I think I worded my question badly. What I'm really asking is, since the solenoid is no longer doing anything, can I disconnect and remove it without causing problems? The only reason I can think for it causing problems is if it provides input to the ECU which might then throw a "bad solenoid" CEL.

WOT: I can't talk about drivability since I don't have my ECU back yet. Also, I'm adding an intake and 3" turboback so the gains won't be all from the MBC.

 

Please realize that this is only my conjecture, but I think that the solenoid could be completely removed without immediate adverse results..... OTOH, why remove it? it cannot weight more than a few ounces, it's in an out of the place location and if you remove it, yoiu'll want to save it anyway, just in case you want to put it back..... Do you need the space fort something else?

WOT: I've not noticed any driveability problems, except the car wants to buck a little bit when I first start it in very cold mornings until it warms up a little. Of course, I don't know it this has anything to do with the MBC. Frankly, I doubt it since the boost controller is not really doing anything at low throtle, low speed operation. AFAIK, the boost controller only begins to work after one has reached a certain boost, usually associated with hard acceleration.

 

Thanks for the advice silverEvo8. I guess I just wanted to remove it because it wasn't doing anything. The same reason I pulled the hose going from the solenoid to the intake accordian -- not because of weight savings. There's alot more weight savings to be had around my middle than the solenoid is worth.

I guess I just see it as yet another part of the stock system that I am removing. I would just store it along with the unused hoses, airbox, etc. that are coming off. I guess I'll leave it on and once I get everything running again (if I'm feeling bored) see what happens if it is disconnected.

 

Your logic is fine.... I find that I tend to lose bits and pieces of my car once they are off... Also, I've put my cars back to stock before selling them before... Specially little bolt on items like MBCs, exhaust, etc. That's why I advise not removing anything that can be left alone
Of course, your mileage might vary, etc. Please let me know what happens if you do remove it... I'm curious to know if my hipothesys is correct...

 

silverEVO8, thanks for your input. I too noticed the problem when the car is cold. When I get to work, everything seems fine. However, since my wife even commented on it, I know that there is something going on.

I would think the ecu would like to know boost or vacuum to help make fueling compensations, especially where the car is going in & out of boost conditions. Unfortunetly I have never received a valid answer if the ecu helps adjust fuel in this area, relative to boost/vacuum.

 

Yes, you are right that the ECU would like to know when it's in or out of boost conditions. There might be some connection between the MBC and that hesitation... You said that you removed the MBC, did this solve that problem?
It's hard to see how the MBC could cause that hesitation, after all it appears to be there in low speed, vacuum conditions and the MBC would not seem to affect the vacuum, but I'm not sure. I wonder if anyone else has experienced this and if they know the cause and possible cures.....

 

Hey guys I know this is a thread for a MBC but I have the works rally p2 boost enhancment and I had to replace the stock vacume hose that holds the boost for our cars. I did this instalation in 10 degree weather so everything was extra stiff. I had to remove the battery, the upper IC piping, the air box and the fan. I noticed the battery removle was a waste of time but oh well. I intalled the new hose and then reinstalled everything. Im almost positive everything was installed tightly even though it was cold out and things were stiff to put back in. My car is only reading 12 pounds of boost at WOT. I sent my ecu back to works rally to see if the ecu was the problem. My question is do u guys think its the Ecu?...the hose they gave me?....or a leak somwhere in the piping that would make my car to only hit 12 pounds of boost no higher no lower??....Ive already gotten some advice but im trying to see what everyone else thinks....Thanxs any advice would be good advice.

 

~12 lbs is what the wastegate is set at. Unless Works really screwed up with the ECU, you might have wired your hosing backward.

 

ok ok.....however the hose that they sent me if you look at the stock one...one of the hoses have a colored mark on it. The hose they sent me has a colored mark on it as well....wouldnt that mean you install that hose where the stock one already is..??....btw so it wouldnt be anything else that would do that right so its either the hose or the ecu??..thanxs so far....

 

A picture or a sketch would help out a lot. I don't know why you would only hold 12 p.s.i. I'd suggest putting everything back stock (except the reflash) and see is the car at least will hold boost as it did before everything changed. You should be able to see 19 p.s.i. peak and the tapers to 14-15 p.s.i.
My car with a MBC holds 20 p.s.i. to redline no problem. I asked David (who no longer works for WORKS) to explain their "boost tube" to me... I wish knew what it's all about, what it's supposed to do (the theory and practice), what it looks like, where it goes, etc.

 

Boston, which hose did you replace? the hose from the wastegate nipple to the T connector and the hose from the T to the solenoid each has a pill in them. The hose from the turbo nipple to the T and the hose from intake tube nipple to the solenoid should not have a pill in them (this prolly sounds confusing blame it on mitsu's POS boost system). Having or missing a pill in a hose can cause low or high boost depending on which hose. What was your boost before you got the works ecu?

 

Yes. Now if I had an SAFC or something, I am sure it could easily have been tuned out.

Anyone want to buy a basically new ams mbc for $45 bucks shipped? If so, pm me.

 

Well, in the course of figuring out where to install buschur's intake bracket, I ended up taking the solenoid out entirely. I ran around a bit setting the MBC to hit 19 psi and everything seems peachy. What finally settled it for me was noticing that there were only two wires in the solenoid connector, presumably hot and ground. Unless there is a sensor measuring resistance I don't think the ECU can tell if it is there or not.

EDIT -- Murphy was an optimist. Anyway, the car proved me wrong today when I went out with a friend for lunch. P0243 -- Boost Solenoid malfunction. So, unless putting in a resistor fixes the problem, I guess I'm gonna have to put the solenoid back in. Oh well, at least it gave me an excuse to get a OBD-II scanner.

 

SilverEVO8 thanks for the info, very informative. I just ordered the AMS mbc yesterday and will be installing soon. Your diagram and input will simplify the install for me, as I have no experience with a turbo car, but plenty with supercharged mustangs. Anyway, thanks again!