I didnt remove anything except for the pipe in the way. All I had was bleedy hands though.

 

any pics?

 

go to this: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=42784

 

Isn't it just a cone filter connected on the MAF?
Doesn't it just install on the pipe where the airbox used to be?

Oh wait.. MAF mount on the airbox.. and then airbox on the
pipe... hmmm..

 

Yes, just to clear some things up, removing the fan and battery are CONVENIENCE measures only. They allow you a LOT more working room in there and they are both very easy to remove/reinstall. Everything went together smoothly, it was just a matter of patience. I don't want to scare anyone from installing it themselves, I tend to take more time I suppose with installations than most because I double and triple check everything (well, everything that I can remember, hehe). Obviously even that fails me sometimes.

I can tell you there is a definite power increase from this thing when you are rolling. I am sure in a dyno type situation you would likely not see much gains if any, but the air is cool around here and when I'm rolling down the highway it is VERY noticeable in 4th and 5th. And my god that sound... I noticed people turning around almost a block away from me in the city!

 

JT-KGY, it's a tapered pipe (2" from turbo to 3", IIRC) then MAF, MAF adapter and filter.

 

holy jesus that's one insane grounding kit. did you notice anything impressive from that setup as opposed to a daisy chain or just grounding particular spots?

 

I think I need to get a new clamp for the hose that attaches onto my BOV. The one HKS gave me didn't fit so I took an extra tiny clamp from my AEM intake install and put it on there. It doesn't move but I dunno how reliable thisis ognna be..

 

The problem I see with that grounding kit is the 9000 grounds going to the stock ground. Unless the ground from the stock negative terminal clamp is 4" wide, there's no way it's going to ground all the power from those 4ga wires. It does look nice though. FYI it appears to be that the stock ground from the battery post is 8ga, but I can't recall 100% (looked at it last night).

Plus it kind of defeats the purpose of multi-point grounding. I like the standard 5-point setup. Head -> TB, TB -> firewall, battery -> fender, tranny -> battery, head -> tranny.

 

Is the outlet from the diverter valve a rolled-lip type of tube? If so and the clamp is behind that lip, you'll be fine. Otherwise just pick one up @ autozone for $0.00005.

 

the small hose.. the crank breather i think it is coming from the engine.. it's on there pretty tight but i'm not sure if it's leaking or what not.. guess i'm going to have to further investigate the clamp on there is doing ok i guess

btw there's no autozones anywhere near me :/.. only auto store is pepboys.

 

Pep Boys has em too.

You're talking about the breather tube from the valve cover right? That should connect to your intake not the diverter valve. I used a zip tie with the HKS kit, not a hose clamp.

 

No WAY!!!! I did this past monday night and took a few hours. I also had to remove the fan. The clamp bolt at the bottom of the turbo inlet is almost impossible to get to with out the fan removed. Unless you have small hands telepathic guidance I dont know how you got that out.

 

Me too I had to stio and get a bandaid to stop bleeding in engine compartment the fan frame sliced me open that is when I knew it had to come out.

 

LOL I'm still trying to figure that out. I suppose with 3-4 1/4" universal drive extensions, 8 hands the size of half dollars, and "telepathic guidance" it could be possible.

I bet I could pull it off in about 1.5 hours now that I've done it once.

FWIW I installed my HKS type-1 TT in about 45 minutes including lower dash/steering column trim removal, etc. I did not, however, splice into the ECU yet (probably would have been an additional 20 mins).