So I just got done installing my HKS RS intake. So far (let it idle for a bit) no problems, sounds good blipping the throttle. Haven't done my test drive yet, gotta rest for a second.

This has been a 3 hour install for me. Not quite sure how anyone could pull it off in less than 1.5 to be honest.

Here are a couple of tips for all you DIY'ers:

Get the proper tools
You will need 8mm, 10mm and 12mm sockets. You WILL need a 1/4" ratchet for this unless your hands are as small as a child's, even then there's just not enough room to operate in some areas with anything larger. A "stubby" ratchet would be ideal. Get a 3/8" ratchet also. Get the above sockets in both sizes, and get an adapter to go between each for each ratchet.

You will also need a philips head and flathead screwdriver. Easy to remove clamps with these.

Beyond that you will need various extensions for each ratchet (pick up a set of 4 for each).

That's about all I can remember. Oh you'll wanna have 8/10/12mm open-end wrenches too, and a pair of plyers (with the teeth on the inside arc) and a pair of dykes (for cutting various clips and such). You have to move some wiring around under the filter assembly and remove the MAS wiring from the stock airbox.


Remove the battery and the fan!
The battery is easy, the fan is a slight *****. You have to bend the lower I/C piping just a little bit to get it out. Also unclip the large gray harness from the power unit which is mounted on the fan (don't worry about the little black harness next to it). Then remove said power unit from the fan (2 10mm bolts IIRC) and let it hang down gently. Now remove the 2 screws on the top of the black fan assembly and pull it out at a slight angle while holding the I/C piping away from the bracket on the side of the fan.

Yes it's a pain in the ***. Yes it's worth it for the room to work (you are doing this to gain access to the stock hose clamp around the turbo inlet).

Reinstall the fan after you've secured the HKS pipe + silicone tube to the turbo inlet. Make sure that clamp you put on there is setup so the screw to tighten is pointing towards the radiator for easy access later.

The fan btw just rests on some lower brackets (you'll see what I mean when you remove it) with 2 rubber feet that go through 2 mounting holes. Nothing secures them down below other than that.

Also you want to remove the LOWER I/C flex piping that runs to the lower hard piping. It's the stuff right in front of the black fan.


Prepare for lower back pain
I am hurting here, and I'm in damn good shape and only 22!! I need some


Do this in good light
You will need it.


Don't try to rush things
Don't tighten everything down until you are SURE the filter will clear the washer reservoir etc. It takes some time to properly reposition the factory diverter valve, I/C piping, intake pipe, etc. Just work slowly until it all falls into place, it will eventually. You are working in small confines here.


That's about it. Feel free to ask me any questions. I'll be back in an hour to post about the intake itself (hopefully no problems will crop up).

 

OK just went for a 25 mile test drive. **** this thing is nasty now, what a sound! Aside from that though, I definitely feel a power loss particularly in 4th and 5th while on the highway at 70-80mph. I gotta get a boost gauge and find out what's up. I suppose there could be a leak somewhere in all that piping I disconnected, but it seems so impossible and it's not like a sharp decline of power or anything.

Update
I took another look at all the clamps and wouldn't you know, I found the recirc tube from the diverter valve to the upper i/c pipe was basically totally detached from the valve. I remember now dropping my damn ratchet and forgetting to finish up tightening that clamp. Stuck'er back on and went for another 30 miles or so, WOW. This thing is crazy loud. Almost too loud, it makes me not want to go WOT all the time. At any rate, for a real performance assessment, I'd say there's definitely top end gained here. The 3500rpm punch is still minimal compared to stock, but it's much stronger than my original test drive revealed. It pulls to the red line SO much smoother, my god. I dare say that whole top end weezing feeling I used to sense is all but gone! Turbo spool up seems much faster on upshifts, not nearly as much lag as I experienced before. BTW the power gains I claim here are definitely assisted by the fact that it's like 55 degrees out, but hey that's the idea right?!

With tuning and more mods I'm sure this will prove worthwhile, but would it be my first major performance mod again? After fixing the hose clamp issue, YES!! Love the sound, love the smooth power!!

 

This install took me about 30 mins, it was not nessary to remove the battery and the fan if you have proper tools ie: socket with swivel device.

- Erik

 

BTW mods this should have been posted in the How-To section I think.

Erik, you are a lucky bastard.

 

No pics of the finished product...

 

Nah sorry I don't have a digicam yet (why, I am not quite sure) and my g/f's camera needs to be recharged.

 

Remeber to reset your ECUs wehen doin this install without removng teh battery. I agree wit INsidious EVo that you dont need to remove fan and battery.

 

Just found that the tube that connects the upper i/c pipe and the factory d/v was 1/2 way off. Probably the cause of my power loss. To the wrenches and back to another test drive!

 

whats the verdict on your latest test run????????

 

I'm getting the RS intake installed as well as my 264/264 HKS cams. Will I have a problem running stock with ECU... like stalling, etc? I'm also thinking about getting Works' upcoming boost flash, but not sure if that will solve the problems.

 

just had my rs intake installed along with the hks afr at boost solutions and it runs strong....with proper tuning u will b fine...

 

Everything is ok!! Sheit I am just going to edit my original post. I realized the recirc tube from the diverter valve was never really fully attached, so it was slowly coming off the whole time, hence the seemingly tapering power. See above for explanation in a sec...

 

I have the AEM intake installed, can upload pics if anyone wants

 

The hardest part for me was getting the clamp off that was holding the stock induction hose to the turbo. The screw was in the most back-asswards position and it was almost impossiblt to get off but I think installation is pretty straight foward. No need to take off anything but the pieces you're replacing. Battery, fans and everything else can stay where it is. If you have even the littlest knowledge of cars, just follow the pictures, since the words are in japanese, and you should be fine. Took me about 1.5 hours.

PS> Sounds ****in wicked by the way. Spool up and bov are loud as hell. Turns heads EVERYWHERE! Well worth the pesos

 

Nice choice. Hope you like it.

I just love mine so much that I won't mind to spend that extra hours to install it.