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Stock Turbo, Max PSI/Boost?

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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 08:42 AM
  #16  
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I am spiking to 33 psi on stock turbo and wastegate, on 93 + 100% meth....
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 09:50 AM
  #17  
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From: Out West
So you'll need new vacuum / boost lines (obviously no pills) - you can get at most auto parts stores.
COBB gave me a set with the AP, I will remove the pill and utilize those lines, for I never put them on, even though I am running the Cobb Stage II currently. In 2 weeks, i will be able to get it tuned again for the new boost control method, as I am moving away from cobb, and back onto Open ECU tuning. Thanks again for everyone's help.

Hijack at will...lol.
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 10:09 AM
  #18  
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From: Cencal Bay
Am spiking to 26psi, on stock studs so didnt want to risk goin higher.. Do you guys above 27psi have upgraded head studs? edit: just noticed poster #18 does..

Last edited by NsinEvo8; Jul 12, 2009 at 10:11 AM.
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 10:21 AM
  #19  
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I am running the Forge wastegate and Forge MBC set to 25 psi on pump gas...been that way for almost a year and no problems...

There are so many different things that can be thrown into the equation when trying to see what the max psi out of the stock turbo is...pump gas? pump & meth? e85? race gas? race & meth? Engine mods? Head studs? etc etc...
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 10:50 AM
  #20  
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From: VaBeach, VA
Originally Posted by will05
I am spiking to 33 psi on stock turbo and wastegate, on 93 + 100% meth....
Whats your hp?
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 10:54 AM
  #21  
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From: VaBeach, VA
Originally Posted by NsinEvo8
Am spiking to 26psi, on stock studs so didnt want to risk goin higher.. Do you guys above 27psi have upgraded head studs? edit: just noticed poster #18 does..
Yes, I have have head studs as well! Its not a good idea to run over 25ish on stock studs but def if you are going to do meth and run a 30+lbs spike your going to need head studs. Its your safety precaution
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 12:02 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by BLKCarbonEVO
Yes, I have have head studs as well! Its not a good idea to run over 25ish on stock studs but def if you are going to do meth and run a 30+lbs spike your going to need head studs. Its your safety precaution
Incorrect statement ^...This headstud question has been addressed a number of times...What causes head lift / shift more often than not is severe knock...There are a ton of high hp cars on stock head bolts. If you need to remove your head, then that is the appropriate time to replace gasket and upgrade studs / bolts.
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 12:14 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by cij911
Incorrect statement ^...This headstud question has been addressed a number of times...What causes head lift / shift more often than not is severe knock...There are a ton of high hp cars on stock head bolts. If you need to remove your head, then that is the appropriate time to replace gasket and upgrade studs / bolts.
Agreed I have friends running a green at 32psi for over a year with no problems... He drives it like he stole it everyday!
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 12:28 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by cij911
Incorrect statement ^...This headstud question has been addressed a number of times...What causes head lift / shift more often than not is severe knock...There are a ton of high hp cars on stock head bolts. If you need to remove your head, then that is the appropriate time to replace gasket and upgrade studs / bolts.
And in a perfect world you could predict knock, but guess what, you cant! So it is a safety precaution and yes when running higher boost levels you are more prone to knock! So running higher boost levels creates more heat, meaning more possible knock. There have been a number of times that people have dyno in the winter and have no knock and in the summer you have 5+ counts. Head studs IMO are more important for people running stock turbos on meth with high boost levels. It would not take much at all to have server knock and if you assume that your "head studs" are fine, well thats not a chance I'm willing to take. If your meth pump desides to not work one day in WOT you may have more problems than knock and or head studs but the more saftey precautions you have the better. Also you don't need to take your head off to replace head studs! You can replace one at a time
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 12:32 PM
  #25  
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If you don't know talk to your tuner... Ultimately he decides where your boost will be set at. Its not as easy as just picking a number and doing it. I've seen different cars with the same mods running 22-23-24-25-26-27psi... It depends what you use the car for, what you want out of the car and how it takes. Boost isnt everything, especially on a smaller turbo.

If youre tuning yourself, start low around 20psi and work youre way up until youve found the optimal boost that gives you nice hp and trq.

Cheers!
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 12:35 PM
  #26  
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From: Reno,NV
Originally Posted by 4WS Tuning
If you don't know talk to your tuner... Ultimately he decides where your boost will be set at. Its not as easy as just picking a number and doing it. I've seen different cars with the same mods running 22-23-24-25-26-27psi... It depends what you use the car for, what you want out of the car and how it takes. Boost isnt everything, especially on a smaller turbo.

If youre tuning yourself, start low around 20psi and work youre way up until youve found the optimal boost that gives you nice hp and trq.

Cheers!
Tamar long time no talk.
I agree you can never do the same exact thing on different cars. Some cars like a lot of boost others can't take it at all!
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 12:37 PM
  #27  
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From: Socal :)
Originally Posted by BLKCarbonEVO
And in a perfect world you could predict knock, but guess what, you cant! So it is a safety precaution and yes when running higher boost levels you are more prone to knock! So running higher boost levels creates more heat, meaning more possible knock. There have been a number of times that people have dyno in the winter and have no knock and in the summer you have 5+ counts. Head studs IMO are more important for people running stock turbos on meth with high boost levels. It would not take much at all to have server knock and if you assume that your "head studs" are fine, well thats not a chance I'm willing to take. If your meth pump desides to not work one day in WOT you may have more problems than knock and or head studs but the more saftey precautions you have the better. Also you don't need to take your head off to replace head studs! You can replace one at a time
Well I am sorry but once again I have to respectfully disagree with your statements. (1) You can monitor knock -- evoscan and mitsulogger. (2) You can setup your ecu such that if you have more than X (you define) counts of knock, your ECU pulls boost. (3) If you live in an area with large temperature fluctuations and you tune your car in the winter, you should NOT tune in on the edge because when summer comes you may have issues (generally what folks do is figure out the max tune and then back a few degrees of timing out). (4) 1x1 method - I guess, but it is just not how I would do it....

Either way, I am glad you have 'protection' ....
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 01:11 PM
  #28  
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From: VaBeach, VA
Originally Posted by cij911
Well I am sorry but once again I have to respectfully disagree with your statements. (1) You can monitor knock -- evoscan and mitsulogger. (2) You can setup your ecu such that if you have more than X (you define) counts of knock, your ECU pulls boost. (3) If you live in an area with large temperature fluctuations and you tune your car in the winter, you should NOT tune in on the edge because when summer comes you may have issues (generally what folks do is figure out the max tune and then back a few degrees of timing out). (4) 1x1 method - I guess, but it is just not how I would do it....

Either way, I am glad you have 'protection' ....
I'm glad you like my protection! I said that you can't predict knock. I know you can monitor with evoscan and I believe that you are wrong. The ECU will pull "Timing" not boost at a certain knock count. Most people use 8 as a good rule of thumb. I agree with your last statement but you can't control what all the tuners are doing to your car. If people are that smart about timing and what not then they would tune their own car, but this is usually not the case! So back to the first thing i mentioned. Play it safe becasue you can't always rely on the tuner and failsafes!
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 01:33 PM
  #29  
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^ You are correct in standard form the ECU pulls timing when knock occurs (equal to or greater than 3 counts)...But the modified ROMs with the Tephra patch can cut boost if a knock condition is met. My point is that given your concern for knock (reason for headstuds), I believe the best solution is the Tephra patch with a condition that kills boost if knock is greater than 3....
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Old Jul 12, 2009 | 01:39 PM
  #30  
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From: VaBeach, VA
Originally Posted by cij911
^ You are correct in standard form the ECU pulls timing when knock occurs (equal to or greater than 3 counts)...But the modified ROMs with the Tephra patch can cut boost if a knock condition is met. My point is that given your concern for knock (reason for headstuds), I believe the best solution is the Tephra patch with a condition that kills boost if knock is greater than 3....
See we are both right! Though the Tephra patch only works for the cars that use ECU controlled boost, right?
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