awesome thread.

on a side note. what type of life span does an aluminum rod have for a car that is daily driven?

coming from the srt-4 community, the aluminum oliver rods that were available, a shop/vendor recommended to check the rod cap and top portion where the piston pin goes through for proper tolerances after every 'season'

same rule of thumb apply here?

 

Do you guys do 2.3 race motors as well?

 

GRP rods (a aluminum rod competitor) has this disclaimer on their site, but it is our opinion that Groden Rods are the best quality available. They are straight up over there and we have had the same concerns that you have and asked all the same questions.

Groden's stance is that aluminum rod manufacturers state that so they can continue to sell you more rods along the way.

Groden backs their product 100% and they state they are the last rods you should ever need.

 

thats a great write-up.

 

Cant wait to get one of these short blocks in my car.

 

Thank's for that info. That's very reassuring...and those Groden's look beastly as hell.

For a daily driven freeway monster, would it be a good idea to get the rods mic'd after maybe around 25-30k miles or so? Or is that not even necessary?

When time comes for me to purchase a rotating assembly, you'll be hearing from me.

 

Groden has shared with us many proof sources of 75,000 mi engines with their rods still running strong.

 

I thought groden didn't recommend these rods for DD, so this isn't true?

 

Nope. Bad information. We plan on using them in our daily driver.

 

Interesting.

Any pro's/con's of using these vs a steel rod on a DD?

 

Yes, the whole point is to save rotating mass weight. The lighter the engine rotating mass, the faster revving and forgiving the engine is. It is less likely to damage rod bearings from knock on aluminum than steel also.