Get a flex pipe

 

Most of the time is the muffler/cat shield.

 

I have the same BS rattle. I just installed map MAP short block and completion ceramic single disk with act lightweight flywheel and I'm doing engine break in with lots of vacuum pulls/decel In gear and I'm getting that loud rattle from 4k-3k rpm the. It goes away when it goes below 3k. Does anybody have a remedy for this? It's so annoying!!!! Iv tried nearly everything. Taking the DP off, filed ever metal on metal contact I can find.

When it's ratting and I barley press in the clutch it goes away. Please post your remedies!!!

 

Just so everyone that doesnt know this already, if you get chatter on decel much like you shaking a can full of beans or a coffee grinder sound, it is linked to the input shaft bearings within our transmissions. I believe Mitsu actually release a TSB about this as well.

Here is a link to tell you why you are getting the noise http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pa...-shaft-upgrade

also here is a youtube vid of what it sounds like out of the transmission

All in all I hope this helps out and what I have linked the noise to

 

I've seen that video. Mine Taylor just happened after I installed a competition clut h and act light flywheel.

I really hope it's because race car. It is driving me insane!

 

The rattle begins at 0:08 and ends at 0:12 it's only In That Rpm range on deceleration.
It's starting to bug the hell out of me!!! Please help

 

Come guys...what was your fix for this?

 

I've had that same noise for the longest time. I think it has something to do with the transfer case/driveshaft.

 

I have a brand new Jack's transmission and transfer case. My noise started after I installed the QM 8 leg clutch. I hate it too with a passion. Thought it was the heat shields, so I removed them. I thought it was the solid drive shaft bushings, so I removed them. Noise still there.

 

I found it to be the springs in the clutch disc. When i put in my clutch masters fx300 it went away and then 10k miles later it started to make noise again.

I upgraded to an exedy twin recently and its just started again after 2k miles or so.

My money is the springs

 

I had a triple exedy and no noise. Swapped to the Quarter Master 8 leg and instant noise. Sent the transmission to Jack's for rebuild, nose was still there.

 

Bringing this back up...anyone else?

 

I just put in a Jack's trans, Jack's t-case, Wavetrac front diff, Weir 12-plate, ES diff/mustache bushings and a Comp 3.5 with their lightweight flywheel. I now have the famous rattle on decel. I'm not super happy about it but this thread at least makes me feel better.

 

You are correct, sort of.... it's not just the springs, but it's the hub of the clutch disc and the way it's designed and riveted to the disc.


Smaller, weak springs will add to the clatter or make it more pronounced though.


The actual clatter is caused by the hub stopper that hits the hub mounting rivets once the springs are maxed out.


If you have a 6 spring clutch design it's garbage. The distance between the rivet and the stopper is much less than the oem design. Oem has 4 "stoppers"(hard to explain with words but if you turn the disc sideways you can see how the springs movement is eventually maxed out and stopped by a plate with sections cut out where the rivet is centered, that hits the rivet.)


The oem design also uses really strong springs that are double sprung or I've heard of them being referred to as coaxial type, or silent hub type design.
So due to increased spring strength and increased distance from the hub stopper plate(I don't know the correct term)on the oem disc, it makes for a quiet clutch on the evo.


ACT and a few other ridiculous expensive clutches uses this spring and hub design and should be silent as well, reviews indicate this is the case as well. Their springs are actually larger than oem, which might be good for noise but could also be bad for shifting due to increased moment of inertia, but it seems most people don't complain about shifting with these clutches.


I actually never tried ACT, the one time I ordered from them the disc came with grease exploded on it and they tried to tell me to use it anyway so I returned it and went OEM. But I have to be honest and say that I think it would be close to stock sound.


I'm actually very bitter at all these clutch companies because it's been like 10 years since the evo came out and most are still churning out their china crap clutches that are overpriced and giving evo owners like me and you hell.


Anyways, I got my own custom clutch ready for next time that fills my requirements. Will be installing sometime this year, to be honest it came out pretty similar to ACT clutch, but they probably use a stiffer pressure plate, I'm all about drivability, I want to drive around comfortably. My clutch is like stage .5 hehe.

 

been saying for years pic the clutch you can live with then build a powerband the clutch can support.. it completely ruins driving fun for me to have such a huge annoyance. i feel sorry for guys who dont do much research on clutch characteristics before deciding to build a high hp car. then they end up with a car that has to have a crap driving clutch to handle the power.