So as a few of you know I had some issues with the oil pan in my car. The guy who owned my motor (pre rebuild) had placed a jack on the oilpan and had bent it in enough so that I was hitting the oil getney in the shallow part of the pan. I diagnosed it and fixed it, and flushed everything as best I could, but apparently that wasnt enough...

My car now has a very light rod knock when the engine oil temp is below 180F. As soon as I hit 180F it goes away, and you cannot hear it, even with a stethoscope against the oil pan.

My question is as follows. Should I take the the entire block out, or can I take the crank, rods, and pistons out and bring them to a machine shop to be fixed? I figured a Machine shop could resurface everything and redo all the bearings, and then I could re install them into the car.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

i say just build it

 

+1

 

+2

 

+5




Wait, what comes after 2?

 

that depends. is there a + before the number?? if so its 4. +4 is how you would enter it on the key board. i went to high school in N.J. i would know. teachers never lie.

 

I say its time for a stroker kit

 

I forgot to mention the motor is already an AMS 2.3 stroker with only 1000miles on it. It started life as a motor that was pulled from a donor evo. I recieved it in stock condition, ripped the head off, and sent it to get redone. It came back, I installed it, and I noticed a loud knocking noise. I figured it was the injectors/lifters (cause im an idiot) and let it warm up and drove it around for a bit hoping the noise would subside. Needless to say, it did not...

I took the oil pan off and discovered that that rods number 3 & 4 had been hitting the small oil gereny in the shallow side of the pan. I did my best to flush everything out and get all the shavings out of the motor. I even went as far as to totally remove the oil cooler, and flushed the oil 3 times. Still 1000miles later, I can hear a faint knocking noise.

So basicly my crank needs to be resurfaced, and I know I need new rod bearings.

Question: Should I just remove the shortblock and send it to a machine shop to be inspected, or would it be safe to just take the crank/rods/pistons out and have them done alone with the block still in the car?

 

Hey,
It looks like you spent a lot of money for a 2.3 AMS motor. In their tech articles, they note that no amount of flushing will get all the shavings out of an oil cooler. Do it right and have everything taken apart. Get you a new oil cooler and let everything get checked and be 100% so you can enjoy your ride and not worry.

 

You can probably kiss your turbo goodbye as well!

I'd see if AMS is willing to work with you.