Improving the Reliability of the 4g63
Improving the Reliability of the 4g63
As the power level increases on our stock 4g63 motors what would you guys choose as "reliability mods" for more peace of mind about your stock motor, not necessarily for more power? i.e., rx7 guys like to upgrade their apex seals etc.
Or is there nothing that you would do until you reach a certain power level, and what power level?
Did a search but I didn't find anything.
Or is there nothing that you would do until you reach a certain power level, and what power level?
Did a search but I didn't find anything.
these motors can handle up to in the neighborhood of 500 whp
a wise investment would be a headstud upgrade...aside from that there isn't much you can do
rod bolts maybe? but that is hardly a simple task
a wise investment would be a headstud upgrade...aside from that there isn't much you can do
rod bolts maybe? but that is hardly a simple task
Thanks for the response - sorry for the vagueness. I do have headstuds, I guess I was just wondering say, if you were running ~450whp if there was anything anyone would do to have more 'peace of mind' about it I guess.
Do a search for Ryu on this board. He is running close to 600whp on a stock longblock besides cams/headstuds of course and he has a boatload of miles. It is all in the tune!
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long enough!bingo! a garage full of spare components is the only way to keep these cars on the road without extended downtime.
John-
So true!
Headstuds and rod bolts are the way to go, but if youre diggin in enough to do rod bolts, you may as well wait until you can get rods and pistons.
They can go at 350whp, 422whp in the case of Johnny above, or last 55k like mine did at 400+ the whole time. The last 9k of that has been at 575whp so it shows some is tune, some is combo, everything else is luck. Sometimes weird things happen for no apparent reason and the motor gives up the ghost without any kind of warning.
Not to scare you since I really believe Johnny fell into the fluke category, but look at his post about Evo IX block carnage. I can personally attest to the state of tune, the knock light settings, but sometimes even then bad things can happen for no good reason.
We typically recommend that the car have rod bolts above 400whp and 450whp is the normal "reliable" limit. I have personally pushed it on mine to see what breaks the motor and I can tell that the horsepower isnt the cause.
For those that think possibly my car made 575whp and I drove it like a grandma since I tuned it, it actually has 45 runs on the dyno at or near that level (500+) and I raped on it 7-8 times a week for that 9k. The 2.2 is ALOT closer now
Not to scare you since I really believe Johnny fell into the fluke category, but look at his post about Evo IX block carnage. I can personally attest to the state of tune, the knock light settings, but sometimes even then bad things can happen for no good reason.
We typically recommend that the car have rod bolts above 400whp and 450whp is the normal "reliable" limit. I have personally pushed it on mine to see what breaks the motor and I can tell that the horsepower isnt the cause.
For those that think possibly my car made 575whp and I drove it like a grandma since I tuned it, it actually has 45 runs on the dyno at or near that level (500+) and I raped on it 7-8 times a week for that 9k. The 2.2 is ALOT closer now
Rod bolts seem to be the general consensus as the weak point in the motor. Rods themselves are crazy expensive though.. There's nothing else for 'peace of mind' to stick right around 450whp (final goal)?
If you rather not open the motor to do rods then the Trick is not to stress the stock motor too much - let it breath easy to make 450HP - if you can find a combo that will make 450HP on like 23psi on a conservative map with low risk of knock - that should make your motor last... two things I find that kills motors 1. Knock (as a result of too much timing / boost) 2. High Rpm >7800 (as a result of chasing HP)
