ses flashing at wot
Oct 25, 2009, 04:21 PM
#1
ses flashing at wot
ok i recently got my car tuned. Jestr did an amazing job. Best stock ecu tuner by far 
. Anyways while tuning we ran into a problem. I will try to explain the best i can so hang in there with me.
First pull we set boost at 26 lbs. Car ran fine. We did another pull with no changes what-soever and now the boost had spiked up to 27lbs. Did another pull and now the boost is hitting 25 lbs. For some reason everytime we were doing pulls my boost would change by itself.
Here is where it would get tricky. Lets take that 26lbs pass. We did a pull and it went up to 26lbs. Now i dont remember the exact numbers but this is just to give you an idea. We hit 26 and it then tapered down to 23 rose back up to 25 then droped down to 19 then rose up to 21. After about 5500-6000rpm my torque graph was up and down up and down. It would flow smooth all the way until that rpm range.
My mods are fp red, ets 4"intercooler, injen piping and intake, fic 850cc injectors, hks 272's forge boost controller and forge bov (re-circulated) i just dont understand why my boost would fluctuate so much. So the real problem is when i go wide open throttle my ses will flash at me basically telling me its pulling timing. Any ideas or suggestion? Please help
. Anyways while tuning we ran into a problem. I will try to explain the best i can so hang in there with me. First pull we set boost at 26 lbs. Car ran fine. We did another pull with no changes what-soever and now the boost had spiked up to 27lbs. Did another pull and now the boost is hitting 25 lbs. For some reason everytime we were doing pulls my boost would change by itself.
Here is where it would get tricky. Lets take that 26lbs pass. We did a pull and it went up to 26lbs. Now i dont remember the exact numbers but this is just to give you an idea. We hit 26 and it then tapered down to 23 rose back up to 25 then droped down to 19 then rose up to 21. After about 5500-6000rpm my torque graph was up and down up and down. It would flow smooth all the way until that rpm range.
My mods are fp red, ets 4"intercooler, injen piping and intake, fic 850cc injectors, hks 272's forge boost controller and forge bov (re-circulated) i just dont understand why my boost would fluctuate so much. So the real problem is when i go wide open throttle my ses will flash at me basically telling me its pulling timing. Any ideas or suggestion? Please help
Oct 25, 2009, 05:42 PM
#7
I dont understand what you mean by bcs. I dont know if i have a tephra or not. Jestr tuned my car. I did not see what exactly was going on so i dont know if there was knock or not. I still need to do a boost leak test and see if thats the culprit. Few days ago i got p0172 system to rich bank 1. I had a megan manifold on there and put the stock one back on because i noticed the megan was all cracked up. Its just weird though that the car will not break up untill i get to 5500-6000 rpm. Why would the motor detonate at such high rpm if it is detonation. Could my forge products be a culprit at all? It sucks that i cannot have fun with the car untill i figure out this issue.
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Oct 25, 2009, 06:23 PM
#8
Tephra has different versions of modified stock roms that use certain address on functions in the ecu that allows you to run alternate maps, flash the ses when knock is above a certain threshold eg 4knock count flash light ..whatever.
The ecu doesn't flash the cel, it's either on or off unless you're patched.
The ecu doesn't flash the cel, it's either on or off unless you're patched.
Oct 25, 2009, 07:23 PM
#11
The CEL flashing definitely sounds like the Tephra mod flashing warning about counts of knock. I know Jestr uses a version of the Tephra patch on their flashes, they did on mine at least. Did you get a log of the event? If not, get a Tatrix cable and log during it to see where the knock occurs, and what the corresponding AFRs are. As for the boost problems, sounds like a boost leak to me, but its odd that it varies so much in pressure and doesn't hit a ceiling and fall off.
Did you do a boost leak test? By BCS he means what do you use to control your boost levels, manual boost controller or electronic? If it were electronic that would make sense on the variations. The electronic solenoid seems to compensate for boost levels, bleeding when it spikes over, and closes to build when it is under the desired amount. But the swing from 19 to 26 is a large amount, too much for a good working electronic solenoid. Not sure though, I'd do the the leak test and go from there...
Did you do a boost leak test? By BCS he means what do you use to control your boost levels, manual boost controller or electronic? If it were electronic that would make sense on the variations. The electronic solenoid seems to compensate for boost levels, bleeding when it spikes over, and closes to build when it is under the desired amount. But the swing from 19 to 26 is a large amount, too much for a good working electronic solenoid. Not sure though, I'd do the the leak test and go from there...
Last edited by buchnerj; Oct 25, 2009 at 07:27 PM.
Oct 25, 2009, 07:37 PM
#12
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I wouldn't recommend boosting until someone looks at your car. Could be phantom knock. It has to be the Tephra mod. Like stated, stock ECU doesn't flash on/off.
My car use to flash on/off on decel and it really wasn't knock with Tephra mod
My car use to flash on/off on decel and it really wasn't knock with Tephra mod
Oct 25, 2009, 08:34 PM
#13
i am using a manual boost controller (forge). I talked to jestr after the tune and ask about knock and he said i was good for knock. From my understanding slow blinking ses is ok but fast flashing means its pulling timing. I am getting the fast flashing. Its flashing before i even hit full boost. Since the flashing i have not been boosting at all. Its my daily driver so i have to drive it but i am in no way beating on my car. I cant afford to mess up my motor lol. I have to get my hands on a air compressor for the boost leak. You guys recommend testing from the compressor or the tb or both? I am sure he is using some sort of tephra mod but i didnt want to be over his shoulder while he was at work. I hope he could come on here and explain it a little better because i am not trying to say he messed up my tune at all. I think he is one of the best. I just want to fix whatever is making my car act up like that.
Oct 25, 2009, 08:42 PM
#14
Fast flashing is 6+ counts or more and is a good indicator of REAL knock.
Slow flashing also pulls timing.
Pulling timing does not stop the engine from being damaged, it only reduces the damage by burning the fuel later and later in the stroke.
Tephra is the originator of the knock CEL patch. It has nothing to do with your engine being safer or less safe. All it does it tell you when there is knock present and in this case, that is what it is telling you.
Slow flashing also pulls timing.
Pulling timing does not stop the engine from being damaged, it only reduces the damage by burning the fuel later and later in the stroke.
Tephra is the originator of the knock CEL patch. It has nothing to do with your engine being safer or less safe. All it does it tell you when there is knock present and in this case, that is what it is telling you.
Oct 25, 2009, 09:12 PM
#15
I see the use of phantom knock needs clarified. Phantom knock is knock that happens intermittently with no other signs of a cause. If it is misfiring and the knocklight is going nuts its a very good sign that the car is actually knocking. This seems to be very repeatable so its not phantom at all.
The P0172 is from injectors that arent scaled correctly and its maxing the trims or close to maxing them generally. Seems to me that it needs the timing dropped and the injectors tweaked.
The P0172 is from injectors that arent scaled correctly and its maxing the trims or close to maxing them generally. Seems to me that it needs the timing dropped and the injectors tweaked.