Modifying your MIVEC cam gear
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 11,406
Likes: 78
From: Northwest
Modifying your MIVEC cam gear
DISCLAIMER: Do not do this unless you understand how to set your cams up, clay the motor, and properly implement this in whatever ECU you are using. If you are unable to do any of these things please leave this to professionals. I make no guarantees, warranties, either expressed or implied, campaign promises, baby kissing, etc. There is always potential for failure even when everything is "planned out" so please keep this mind.
Tech:
Pretty simple actually, you have your MIVEC cam gear here:
You undo the inverted torx (they're not tight) with hopefully the right tool. Or if you are like me a 1/4 6pt got it done in a pinch.
It then looks like this:
The rotor has apex seals which will most likely stay in the housing (see the first 2 pix and you'd see them in the housing) and that fine. It looks like this stock:
Grind it down a touch. The easiest way is to make sure that you take a little at a time and test fit. You end up taking it down to just about the dash between the 1-2.
Thoroughly clean it one last time, install the apex seals (they'll chill but you can knock the springs out if you're not careful), and then reinsert in the housing:
You have successfully added 6* of motion. Degree everything to make sure you installed it correctly, and remember doublechecking is your friend. Its simple to do the math when you know what direction you want to go to make it all line up. There are a few ways to go about it, but the easiest is to go off a tooth and then over advance the cam in your MIVEC map to keep it even (remembering you are tring to achieve 3.5* or so to compensate for the 6mm deck height increase). I am not going to say one way is right or not, nor how I am doing it. If you cant figure it out on your own this is something you do not want to be doing in the first place (reread disclaimer).
Notice the edge of the housing has a lip though. The only way to remove that is is with a table mill. Once that is gone you will open up about another 8*-10* of motion (for a total of 44-46). I have no idea why you might want that much but it is there. You can all thank Grocmax for the math on that one (also dont argue with him, when he says something he isnt guessing).
The reason I did this was to add back the full range of motion since I used a tall deck block with my 2.2l. On the exhaust side I added a cam gear as is common practice but on the MIVEC side I needed to be inventive.
aaron
Tech:
Pretty simple actually, you have your MIVEC cam gear here:
You undo the inverted torx (they're not tight) with hopefully the right tool. Or if you are like me a 1/4 6pt got it done in a pinch.
It then looks like this:
The rotor has apex seals which will most likely stay in the housing (see the first 2 pix and you'd see them in the housing) and that fine. It looks like this stock:
Grind it down a touch. The easiest way is to make sure that you take a little at a time and test fit. You end up taking it down to just about the dash between the 1-2.
Thoroughly clean it one last time, install the apex seals (they'll chill but you can knock the springs out if you're not careful), and then reinsert in the housing:
You have successfully added 6* of motion. Degree everything to make sure you installed it correctly, and remember doublechecking is your friend. Its simple to do the math when you know what direction you want to go to make it all line up. There are a few ways to go about it, but the easiest is to go off a tooth and then over advance the cam in your MIVEC map to keep it even (remembering you are tring to achieve 3.5* or so to compensate for the 6mm deck height increase). I am not going to say one way is right or not, nor how I am doing it. If you cant figure it out on your own this is something you do not want to be doing in the first place (reread disclaimer).
Notice the edge of the housing has a lip though. The only way to remove that is is with a table mill. Once that is gone you will open up about another 8*-10* of motion (for a total of 44-46). I have no idea why you might want that much but it is there. You can all thank Grocmax for the math on that one (also dont argue with him, when he says something he isnt guessing).
The reason I did this was to add back the full range of motion since I used a tall deck block with my 2.2l. On the exhaust side I added a cam gear as is common practice but on the MIVEC side I needed to be inventive.
aaron
Looking at it when it was apart its not balanced in anyway we could see. The whole thing is pretty light, the hub isnt a balanced piece that we could see either. The "rotor" is really unbalanced it looks like when left stock.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 11,406
Likes: 78
From: Northwest
Well I dont know how awesome I am, maybe insane I will agree with 
I might mess around with more advance later, but for now I am just looking to get things as close back to stock ranges as possible.
I might mess around with more advance later, but for now I am just looking to get things as close back to stock ranges as possible.
Trending Topics
Apart from just looking at it, there has to be a way to check if the stock piece is balanced from the factory. You would think that anything that rotates should be balanced, especially something bolted to the end of these fragile mivec intake cams.......past breakage...... Can you guys look into this?