O2 housing - already got
Intake - already got
Pipes - already got - ams licp ppi uicp
Intercooler - already got - ams ic
Ex manifold (ported) - ppi ported/coated
Port your intake manifold - ppi ported
Injectors - already got - precision 1000cc

possibly need more fuel than your single 255 is throwing,
possibly some head work (port and polish) with new valves, etc.

Turbo:
FP RED

Clutch:
EXEDY TWIN

 

This is going to be your average pricing for a built car that can do 500+. Give or take a couple dollars here and there companies you go with whether new or used also. This is assuming its all brand new parts also i did not include core fees as well. Things that might require a core are stated

built head 1695 (core)
2.3 shortblock 3550 (core)
Ported ebay SS o2 housing 65
double pumper 500 (core)
1000cc injectors(min) 250
ported intake manny 250 (core)
ported exhaust manny 200 (core)
aftermarket intercooler pipes upper/lower 250
Intake 200
FMIC 700
wideband guage 230
boost guage 50
3' downpipe 250
3' Exhaust system 600
exedy twin plate clutch 1700
Ported Fp red turbocharger 1900
Hks Dli 250(ignition might not be needed in most application but just in case)
kelford cams or gsc 500
Gates timing belt 120
Ported 65mm Throttle body 300 (core)
Tune 300
Labor = varies

Total 13860 (no labor or core included in this price just parts)

you can also add a meth kit if you into that for another 900. so thats what your generally look at per part and what is needed

 

If you go a little higher than 500 hp and mid to high 400s torque, you are going to be pushing that clutch to the max.

 

Even I am astounded on how much we sink into our motors to get them to run to the best of their ability. Jesus, 13000+ is a good chunk of change. I am not one to speak on wasting money on parts though....

 

So the new estimate according to what you have subtracted what I already have would be roughly 9765

That is definately over what I assumed, but not that bad. I had orginally thought 8-9k in parts.

 

now you can interchange parts on that list of course for cheaper ones or a fp black or a 35 r instead to get that 500 no meth. also if you were to add labor would be 1000 and up more so as stated some parts you already have check those off i would say SEARCH THE for sale FORUMS TONS AND I MEANS TONS of great priced parts in there. for example i picked up a 2.3 shortblock brand new assembled for 2k . just have to look everyday and decided what parts your getting this month and search for those and when you find them with no core buy them. its ok to save money on certain parts for sure just dont go buying a generic turbo kit or manifold and be mad when it cracks

fp black 1999
35r avg = 3000(whole kits includes turbo lines exhaust manifold air intake)

 

Yea, this is if I go the stroker route. If I were to go back to stock, the dealer wants 8k for everything done.

 

yea buddy but if you break it down into sections its not that bad like this month im getting a built head look for a private sale first and condtion etc. if one is not there considered a buschur stage 3 as its fully built suited and booted for action but im positive if you make a WTB thread tons of people that are parts ways will have built heads for 1200-1500. you would just want to get it parts washed and re-decked for action. then move on next month manifold etc look for the deals my friend and you will cut that 9700 down to something managable like 6k-7k easily

 

That is what I am hoping for. I will be making a WTB thread soon. Just need to decide what I want to pick up, but had to figure out what route to go since I am not an engine guy.

 

personally i say go 2.0 or 2.3. the 2.1 is really for IMO drag only type cars. if you dragging all the time. if say if your going to be doing autocross, road course racing and alittle drag 2.3 all day long but if your mostly going to be at the strip dragging 2.0 hands down. To me the 2.4 is a cheaper option that i would not do. not going ot get into why stick with 2.0 or 2.3

 

Yea, I will be going either oem 2.0 or 2.3 stroker. The question is the internals and supporting mods.

If I go oem, then it would be best to go stock for the most part and the basic bolt ons. If I go with a stroker, I would definately have a lot more support mods.

 

I am trying to balance what I already have with the cost and options of going oem or 2.3 stroker. Right now, it looks to be a 2-3k difference in cost, but the power and drive will be very different.

I think going OEM, I will just buy a crate engine drop it in and be all set. Sell off the aftermarket parts I got and be done. With the stroker I want to know what setups people have and are satisfied with. Then I will change, add or remove whats needed to have a setup of my own.

 

Why would you spend all that money on an OEM crate engine? Why wouldn't you just fix the blown short block and go aftermarket. Get a shortblock for the same if not less money and it can take more of a beating and throw more hp/tq your way? I guess I am a little confused on your logic? The OEM shortblock and motor should only be run reliably under 475-500hp/425-450tq. Anything more than that and you are risking blowing it. Then what? You're back to where you are now shopping for a replacement. Spend the money and do it right the first time...

 

Everything above was talking about aftermarket, not oem. The oem would cost a few thousand less since it doesnt need supporting mods.

 

What did you blow, just the shortblock, correct? You will have to find a hell of a deal to find a whole new OEM crate motor than just a 2.0 L shortblock to fix the problem. You don't need to add anything to an aftermarket 2.0 L shortblock. You can just drop it in and go. If you want to see the full power of it you need supporting mods, but not if your just driving the car around.... still confused on the choice...